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liljlandon

liljlandon

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Threads
136
Messages
1,608
Location
SW MO, NE OK, and NW AR
Hey! My uncles been telling me about this site for awhile, and since schools cancelled i have time to join, finally!

I have a 84' HiLux i bought for an amazing 3200! With one place of rust, the front pillar! Its got the 4cyl, 5spd. Im looking at about 22mpg so far, which is an incredibel increase from 7! Im, by nature, a chevy/heep person. My mom and dad have a 82scrambler with 38's. I have a stock 86 blazer with lockers and 32's. but ive went yota, and love it!

The truck came with a set of 32"sport kngs and had no balls. I switched on my 31trxus from my blazer and like it tons better. But i still have no power when i need it! Im planning on going to 33's when my trxus run out. Ive learned you can switch the front springs with the rear to gain 3" of lift in the front. Can i use a 3"block in the rear with the front springs and be pretty level? I have scored a ARB'd front axle from my Uncle when he goes to some d60's. I plan on waiting to swap everything at once. Should I save up and buy a 3" kit? As for power I have a snorkel ive aquired(and also have a "tuner
" muffler to put on. What other things can i do? Preferably under 40dollars? The snorkel wont be installed until Ive done some protection. I have 100ft of some .095"DOM TUBING that i plan on making a front and rear bumper and some sliders. I also want a pretty cool "desert" style cage for the bed. Anywho i think ive been long winded enough. Hope you can read it!
(whats up with the overtype?)
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Welcome to Mud!!! :flipoff2: Glad to have you.

As for the rears up front, the best thing to do is get a set of rears off of another truck, and it's not a straight swap from what I've read, you really should take the spring packs apart and build your own pack. If you put the fronts in the rear, it would probably be riding on the bump stops.... Also, lift blocks are bad mojo! Don't go that way. After you get the front where you want it, a shackle lift, or a set of lift springs for the rear are in order.

The ARB'd front axle you might get wouldn't be off of that red FJ40 would it? If so, that's not a direct swap, the spring perches are different widths.

Why don't you let us know what your plans are for this truck and we can help point you in the right direction. :cheers:
 
Yeah from the Red FJ. How different? Just cut and re weld or more difficult.
I want:
3" lift
33"tires
More power
Same mpg or preferably better
Stinger style tube front bumper
Rear tube bumper similar to those on marlin crawler
More ground clearance with my transfer case.
Lockers
All in a 17yr olds Wyotech bound price range... hehe!
 
Here's what I would do... Get an Aussie locker for the rear diff with 4.88 gears front and rear (those gears will give you some power back even with 33's). Do a shackle lift front and rear and maybe some fender trimming to clear the 33's. Buy a Budbuilt cross member to get clearence at the tcase. If there's any money left over, get a set of Marlin crawler 4.7 t-case gears.

What kind of budget are we really talking about here?

Also, on the FJ axles, the rear has an offset diff, the truck is centered.... ANything's posible with enough $$$ and time.... I haven't looked into the swap, but I know it's not a really popular one.....
 
I am aware of the offset, which is why i planned to put some support on the rear Instead of swapping it totally. As of now i have a very very hurtful limit. I make about 300 every two weeks with school and all... but atleast half comes out for my truck paymet. I spend about 60-80 in gas bi-weekly. So unfortunatly after costs i have about 50dollars pocket money a week... If i can convince my Dad to give me his 33's ill have a free set. Im really looking for budget here... Weve had good luck with PowerTrax in the past so i will probably go with one of those in the rear and just do what i can to make the FJ40 axle work. I believe it has 4:88s.
 
K. I ran out to measure the width of the spring perches. The ones on my truck are 25 and some and the ones on the FJ are 23.5 inches. What is the big deal? a search yeilded no results...
 
If you go for the Cruiser axle up front, you'll need to regear the rear diff to match... If you want the really cheap option, make a shackle lift, weld the rear diff and drive it like you stole it! Of course a welded rear diff is going to eat tires a little faster if you daily drive it much.....
 
On a tight budget like 50 bucks I would cut the fenders to clear the 33's. (maybe a good quality 1 or 2 inch body lift). Bob the bed by about 12 inches. Spend the money on the lockers and gears. A weber carb and header. Might lose a little MPGs but will gain a little more power. Wouldnt put that snorkel on unless you go through deep water. Might actually kill HP and MPGs. Like you trying to go for a mile run breathing out of a straw. Landcruiser axles would be to much work the mini axles will hold up to 33's just fine. Nice looking truck though.

Good Luck
 
Can you guys tell me why the front axle out of an FJ40 will be so much trouble? Im going to need this to make 2 or 3 trips from Arkansas/Missouri to Laramie Wyoming (Wyotech) about once a month... Im undecided. Itll need to pull a small uhaul alittle too... What about a 1" add a leaf to the front, custom spring pack in the rear. 4:11s with a front ARB and rear lockright and 4.7tcase? With me making a cross member, Cage, front and rear bumpers. ON the snorkel, my uncle has one on his Newest land cruiser and says it didnt make a difference. If i had a bigger motor i would prolly agree... I ran all new breather hose today on the axles. Where is the tcase breather located, or is it even worth breathing? the hose comes above the front and rear wheel wells...
night....
 
The problem with the 40 axle is that custom axle swaps are best left to the pros.... If you go at it, you may end up with a truck that's not drivable, or worse, one that breaks at speed and hurts/kills someone.... Probably you....

And once it's in, you're going to have to match the diff gear ratio in the back to the front. 4.88 in the cruiser right? You have to regear because you will not be able to use 4wd if the diff ratios don't match....

You can get a stock 4.88 diff for the rear, but they are pretty hard to come by, and probably $$.

Otherwise you're looking at getting someone else's after market 4.88 set up, which can be $$$ and a gamble.

Or regear your diff, which just in parts can be 300+, not to mention the experience to set it up, or more $$$ for someone else to do it...

Have you heard the expression "There's no such thing as a free lunch"? :D

Since you're on such a tight budget, I'd stick to small well thought out mods. You're talking about more mods all at once than I have done in the last 7 years of driving toys.... And my truck scares me enough already...

The T-case doesn't have a breather so to speak, the shifter acts as the breather...
 
k. So im good breather wise.
Would the toy axle be similar to swapping in a full width? The way i see it you just Widen the spring pearches a little... Everything else is similar, including the steering. I have many connections. We have the 4:11s that were in the crusier axle. Would everything from the internals swap over? Im really counting on using the cruiser axle. Its got the chromoly axle shafts and the Marfield birfeilds. ill be poor until the summer... And Wyotech is gonna set me back 25000!
 
Bad news... On my way to school this morning I hit black ice on a curb. I did a 180 and went into the ditch backwards...

Good news... by gods sweet grace i suffered no injurys... as for the truck, absolutley nothing happened to it... Im just really shaken up!

I discovered a new leak ill get to soon enough and the guy who rebuilt the motor cross threaded a nut where the exghuast mounts to the manifold and one on the very bottom of the engine block, which is where my leak is... go figure!
 
Glad to hear you are all right. Good to hear hte truck is all right. That is the problem of trusting somebody else to do an engine rebuild. Hope you can get it figured out.
 
liljlandon said:
Yeah from the Red FJ. How different? Just cut and re weld or more difficult.
I want:
3" lift
All pro
cross over steering.

33"tires
Super swamper sx

More power
Same mpg or preferably better
lower gears
marlins 4.7 low range gears in transfercase.
twin stick it.

Stinger style tube front bumper
Rear tube bumper similar to those on marlin crawler
More ground clearance with my transfer case.
bud built transfercase mount
Lockers
All in a 17yr olds Wyotech bound price range... hehe!
Click to expand...
weld rear, longer shackles, cut fenders. move front spring hanger down a bit, buy extra J arm.
 
I cant weld the rear! I dont want a off road only vehicle. I need this thing to drive to wyoming and back about twice a month! It needs to haul a Uhaul up there and one when i return! Im fine with a Powertrax in the rear right? The front is no problem! I might leave it unlocked till i get another DD...
Ive made mock up front and rear bumpers. They will be offering a near full underbelly skid, side mount DRings to allow for a very very SOLID side pull on both the front and rear and a good winch position on the front. Im going to leave the suspension to a 1 or 2" shackle/add a leaf lift. and a good roll cage.
 
add a leaf=stiff
front shackle lift=stiff

Both= very stiff ride, not so great handling~No?

You don't want to be like :doh: later...

sounds cheap, but cheap is not usually good from my experience.
 
I actually put longer front shackles on my truck for saggy suspension reasons. It rode like krap and the shackle angle was scary. I got shorter shackles (3/4 inch lift greasable) after that and now it's mucho better. I wouldn't go with too long in the front, it just makes the weakened springs even worse. If you do the shackle action in the front make sure you go greasable. I still want new springs for the front, but yes expensive... I'm sure you'll have fun no matter what you do. Good Luck :steer:
 
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