HOW TO: World's Most Expensive Jumper Cables

[NLXTACY]

Why go to all that work to run such nice wiring & components, only to terminate it at a pair of cheap, low-amperage clamps?

How many amps does it take to charge a vehicle, btw? Is your 200a solenoid really up to the task? Hope someone doesn't try starting their vehicle while you're connected to them - you may end up welding your solenoid open.

Cool project though.

Yes the clamps were something I didn't like when I got them but I wanted to finish the project so I used them. I will be looking for better clamps later on down the road.

The solenoid is a 200A constant, 1000A in-rush.

BTW, I ran the project through Stan @ Wrangler and he said that a lot of fleet service vehicles do these types of set ups.

 

[TrickyT]

...The reason is the starting vehicle needs to have the negative terminal connected and the dead vehicle needs to have the negative terminal grounded somewhere OTHER than the negative terminal. So wont work...

The reason for doing this is to avoid a spark near the battery when connecting up the cables, which prevents a possible explosion from accumulated hydrogen gas. You connect the ground on the dead car away from the battery as the last step and then any spark is far enough away that it doesn't ignite the gases. The risk of an explosion is low to begin with, but I have heard of it happening and think there was even a post here on mud by someone it happened to.

Assuming you've got enough charge left in your battery to energize the relay, you could use the switch in the dash to close the relay and complete the circuit and then any spark that occurred would be contained inside the relay and thus harmless. But if your battery is so dead that it can't energize the relay then this approach won't work and your current setup, as described, won't help you.

 

[NLXTACY]

The reason for doing this is to avoid a spark near the battery when connecting up the cables, which prevents a possible explosion from accumulated hydrogen gas. You connect the ground on the dead car away from the battery as the last step and then any spark is far enough away that it doesn't ignite the gases. The risk of an explosion is low to begin with, but I have heard of it happening and think there was even a post here on mud by someone it happened to.

Seen it myself twice in my life. Each time was well over 20 years ago back when ALL batteries had removable caps to check water level and such. So risk back then of gassing was high.

 

[NLXTACY]

Assuming you've got enough charge left in your battery to energize the relay, you could use the switch in the dash to close the relay and complete the circuit and then any spark that occurred would be contained inside the relay and thus harmless. But if your battery is so dead that it can't energize the relay then this approach won't work and your current setup, as described, won't help you.

Well this set up is fine for me, dual batteries solves that. I am constantly checking for current draw when vehicle is off so my batteries should last me a long time. Although I don't see the need, I think I am still going to add in a perko to allow being the jumper as well as the jumpee

 

[24HOURSOFNEVADA]

Wow, who knew there was so much involved with jumper cables. I like them and think you did a killer job. I especially liked the sheathing and ratcheting quick disconnect. Nice touches.

I do agree, that you need to find a better set of clamps though. They just don't look as nice as the other parts.

 

[NLXTACY]

Wow, who knew there was so much involved with jumper cables. I like them and think you did a killer job. I especially liked the sheathing and ratcheting quick disconnect. Nice touches.

I do agree, that you need to find a better set of clamps though. They just don't look as nice as the other parts.

I know, I am totally ridiculous but I love this kind of stuff

Yes, new clamps are on the way.

 

[TrickyT]

Is the hammer-style terminal crimper shown in post #2 from Wrangler NW or AirGas? I looked in the AirGas on-line catalog but couldn't find one listed. Got the part number? I assume that's what you used to crimp the lugs onto the cables shown in the second picture of post #1, but would appreciate it if you confirmed this. Although not as good as the crimps you get from more expensive hex die crimpers, the ones in the second picture nevertheless look pretty good.

 

[Brian894X4]

That 200 amp solenoid will work perfectly fine. I've used that same solenoid for the duel battery systems in both my truck and LC. I've started dead batteries off of them with no problem. I've even winched off of them.

I have had one go bad on me because it was defective, but they are otherwise a good product. I'd still consider fusing the positive side. 200A should be plenty. Especially with your set up. Maybe at the very least, you could consider wrapping the positive wire in heater hose for some extra protection. That's what I've done with mine for my duel battery set up.

I'm just a little extra cautous.

I think you mentioned something about running a line all the way to the rear. If so, then definately consider fusing that line, wrapping it up and putting a solenoid on it, if possible. Because that's one that could easily get frayed and make the LC go up in smoke.

 

[BlueHZT60]

Dang, I just did the same thing with my 60 & soon to the 80. I cheated. I ordered from Waytek - less expensive. I chopped an old jumper cable for the underhood to bumper run, I used inexpensive cable wrap, and swiped my jumper-plug extension out of my MaxAir compressor. It is amazing how all those parts add up, especially the circuit breakers, fuses and wire. Bob

 

[Beowulf]

The only thing I will be adding now is a large LED light near the disconnect to let me know that the jumper cables are active.

Interesting project, thanks for posting.

When you are installing the LED near the disconnect (good idea BTW) you should also install a red &/or green LED in the jumper cable end (the side you give to the guy you are jumping). You might be able to use one of those tri-color LEDs but the objective is to give the other guy a visual that he has correctly hooked up the cables to his vehicle. Green=good, then you can flip your switch to activate your side of the connection.

I built a similar set up for my truck using the Warn remote winch mounting kit. I added the polarity LEDs to both ends of my jumper cables.

-B-

 

[SWCruiser]

I have always thought that jumper cables are cumbersome and a pain to connect/ disconnect. Not sure I would spend that much to remedy the problem but nice work. It also reminds me of some of the military plugs I have seen for large trucks and tanks. I always wanted to pull one of these off and use it for the same purpose.

 

[Red Beard]

NLXTACY,
Why do you keep starting, flawlessly carrying out and cleanly finishing all the projects on my list that I would do if i had the money and time?! This is great work. I didn't know something like this would cost this much. I just thought you buy one of those wrangler things, hook it up and use the cables provided. Oh well, very nice job. When you're all done doing things I'd like to be doing, make a ROTW, I'd like to see it all together.

 

[pint]

NLXTACY - WOW, cool project. I'm jealous as hell of you guys that can engineer and build all this cool stuff!

 

[billmiranda]

Wow that's expensive. I did a similar thing with 1 GA cables about 7 years agon on my 4runner... No solenoid... just ran the cables through the grill and connected them up to the side terminals my battery came with... bolted the connector to the TJM bumper... and I was done. I can jump without opening the hood... adn no sparks get near the battery... ran me about $40 total.

To each his own I guess... been working since I made them. Transferring them to the LC next week.

Regards,
Bill

 

[NLXTACY]

Is the hammer-style terminal crimper shown in post #2 from Wrangler NW or AirGas? I looked in the AirGas on-line catalog but couldn't find one listed. Got the part number? I assume that's what you used to crimp the lugs onto the cables shown in the second picture of post #1, but would appreciate it if you confirmed this. Although not as good as the crimps you get from more expensive hex die crimpers, the ones in the second picture nevertheless look pretty good.

Its from AirGas. Its not on their site but I called them on a whim because they do all welding supplies and it just seemed obvious. Its called a Hammer Indent Crimper. Unfortunately I need to find the actual part number. Threw out the packaging and all. :whoops:

 

[NLXTACY]

I'd still consider fusing the positive side. 200A should be plenty. Especially with your set up. Maybe at the very least, you could consider wrapping the positive wire in heater hose for some extra protection. That's what I've done with mine for my duel battery set up.

I'm just a little extra cautious.

I think you mentioned something about running a line all the way to the rear. If so, then definately consider fusing that line, wrapping it up and putting a solenoid on it, if possible. Because that's one that could easily get frayed and make the LC go up in smoke.

I'm still not totally sold on the thought of fusing the positive side. Mainly because its such a short distance and because I've never seen a fused set of jumper cables. I'm thinking I'm ok but I dunno, more research may be needed.

I'm not worried about fray from either wires on this run. Its just such a small run and its tight in there. Nothing bounces around. Plus I have the sheathing on there now.

Now when I do the rear set up, I will definitely be adding a protective layer. Its just a really long run and there is more flex. Lots can happen in that run. I think I would also be more inclined to fuse the rear run over the front run. I am sure there is a solid reason for it but it just feels like the distance necessitates it.

Dang, I just did the same thing with my 60 & soon to the 80. I cheated. I ordered from Waytek - less expensive. I chopped an old jumper cable for the underhood to bumper run, I used inexpensive cable wrap, and swiped my jumper-plug extension out of my MaxAir compressor. It is amazing how all those parts add up, especially the circuit breakers, fuses and wire. Bob

Ding ding ding. Hence the world's most expensive jumper cables.

Interesting project, thanks for posting.

When you are installing the LED near the disconnect (good idea BTW) you should also install a red &/or green LED in the jumper cable end (the side you give to the guy you are jumping). You might be able to use one of those tri-color LEDs but the objective is to give the other guy a visual that he has correctly hooked up the cables to his vehicle. Green=good, then you can flip your switch to activate your side of the connection.

Holy cow poop! I got it!

I will add in the green/red LEDs as planned THEN I will wire it so that the in-cab switch will only allow it to engage if the green LED is lit. If the RED is lit, the switch itself is not engaged!!!

OK, now how to wire that.

Man I love making things more complicated for the sake of making them more idiot proof

 

[NLXTACY]

NLXTACY,
Why do you keep starting, flawlessly carrying out and cleanly finishing all the projects on my list that I would do if i had the money and time?! This is great work. I didn't know something like this would cost this much. I just thought you buy one of those wrangler things, hook it up and use the cables provided. Oh well, very nice job. When you're all done doing things I'd like to be doing, make a ROTW, I'd like to see it all together.

Haha, maybe we need to have a together and go over some future mods. I seriously have TONS of ideas...and I haven't even done armor or lift yet.

ROTW? Yeah, I think I am a long way from doing that. Someday. For now I enjoy doing these little projects and doing the write up about them.

NLXTACY - WOW, cool project. I'm jealous as hell of you guys that can engineer and build all this cool stuff!

Engineer? I am sooooo far from an engineer. I'm a web developer by trade. Although adolescence started with rebuilding engines at my Uncle's shop in Reseda called All Cylinder Heads. I've cleaned and assembled more heads/engines than I care to remember

 

[NLXTACY]

Mac Mini with 7" Touchscreen.

This makes me INSANELY jealous! I am a mac addict and I have been wanted to do this since the mini came out. I have been looking for a CLEAN Mini install write-up into the 80 and I haven't found one. Would love some input/leads!

 

[Red Beard]

I'm a web developer by trade. Although adolescence started with rebuilding engines at my Uncle's shop in Reseda called All Cylinder Heads. I've cleaned and assembled more heads/engines than I care to remember

Web Developer Aye, WHEN DO YOU QUIT TRYING TO TAKE MY STUFF. Hate to change the subject here, what kind of stuff you work with? Javascript, PHP, Java? CSS and Xhtml? We could have a COUPLE , talk about mods AND web development.

 

[Red Beard]

This makes me INSANELY jealous! I am a mac addict and I have been wanted to do this since the mini came out. I have been looking for a CLEAN Mini install write-up into the 80 and I haven't found one. Would love some input/leads!

Yep, that's beers now.. gotta discuss the above 2 and the Mac Mini Install.
Mine is still a work in progress. The Mini is just kickin' around in the back, but it works and almost works flawlessly. It as interface-able as I wanted it to be... its hard to song.. especially for the passenger, but its totally awesome having a full fledged mac in your cruiser. I have Verizon Broadband, so if I have service, I can hit up the internet, check google maps (since i don't have GPS yet). Lots of cool stuff you can do, plus play millions of songs. we'll have to talk.