How to fix the VSC, TRAC OFF, Check engine, and the skid lights (1 Viewer)

[L382Franklin]

Team,

I know there are utube videos on this and how to fix. I wanted to post my experience.

1 Purchased a OEM gas cap to replace the old one per suggestions. Drove 79 miles and lights were still on.

2. decided to remove all air in gas tank. I filled my gas tank to the rim, literally.......

3. reset the mileage and drove exactly 25 miles.

4. lights went out.

5. My conclusion is removing all air in the lines and tank may have helped reset the sytem somehow, I am not a mechanic but did sleep at holiday inn last night...

 

[Mattdamnit]

It'll come back on. Mine does it because of p420 p430 codes. I'm gonna try the o2 spacer trick and maybe new oxygen sensors. Done ran CAT cleaner.

 

[z00t3ch]

Team,

I know there are utube videos on this and how to fix. I wanted to post my experience.

1 Purchased a OEM gas cap to replace the old one per suggestions. Drove 79 miles and lights were still on.

2. decided to remove all air in gas tank. I filled my gas tank to the rim, literally.......

3. reset the mileage and drove exactly 25 miles.

4. lights went out.

5. My conclusion is removing all air in the lines and tank may have helped reset the sytem somehow, I am not a mechanic but did sleep at holiday inn last night...

ANY check engine light situation will light up ALL of said lights.

Don't fill your tank to the rim, raw fuel will enter your charcoal filter and ruin it, causing yet another CEL to deal with.

 

[Bang Bang]

Get a code reader to see what the problem is. Your solution is comparable to just putting some tape over the lights so you don't see them. Could be emissions issue like Mattdamnit has, could need a zero point calibration, or a host of other things.

 

[L382Franklin]

Thanks guys,

I have the 2 P codes as well when I ran the OBD. My mechanic said start with the Valve Assembly vacuum Switching AKA Purge Valve
part 25860-50160

 

[jiggletits]

There are a lot of things that can set those lights off. Invest in a cheap dongle, a cheap PC and some knock-off techstream software. My C1335 code will not go away, I've replaced everything except the steering column wiring harness.

 

[CO_Hunter]

You can also buy the o-ring separately for the gas cap and not replace the whole cap.

A couple of years ago I way up a trail right at tree line looking for a camp spot. I got back in to start and the engine just spun, dash lit up like Christmas tree. I remembered the gas cap trick so I got a piece of wet paper towel and rubbed the filler neck and O ring real good, I could tell I was getting stuff off. Started right up after that and ran fine until the new o ring arrived. Might be worth checking filler neck sealing surface, less likely an issue with new cap.

 

[dahoseman]

You can also buy the o-ring separately for the gas cap and not replace the whole cap.

A couple of years ago I way up a trail right at tree line looking for a camp spot. I got back in to start and the engine just spun, dash lit up like Christmas tree. I remembered the gas cap trick so I got a piece of wet paper towel and rubbed the filler neck and O ring real good, I could tell I was getting stuff off. Started right up after that and ran fine until the new o ring arrived. Might be worth checking filler neck sealing surface, less likely an issue with new cap.

This thread is the closest thing that I could find to my situation. My alternator went out in my GX470 in BFEgypt of rural northern Colorado, which slowly drained the battery while I was driving, unbeknownst to me. I stopped to take a leak on a dirt road and it was completely dead when I went to start it. I had my jump-charger with me at the time, which gave me just enough juice to get it started. I drove for quite a while to a small town. However, the alternator was barely charging enough to operate the most basic systems. All of the lights came on, the transmission wasn't shifting correctly, and the engine control systems were acting funny. When I got to some form of minimal civilization, I had cell signal and I got it towed by AAA to Denver and had a new alternator put in. However, after that point, the CEL and associated lights have come on with codes for the O2 sensors. I have cleared them several times, but they return after several minutes. The GX runs perfectly fine, but the sensors are a problem for emissions. I suspect that the O2 sensors were damaged by irregular voltage and current.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Any advice for how much I need to replace? It's been snowy, so I haven't had a good look underneath to see how many sensors I need to replace or where they are located.

Thoughts?

 

[Rednexus]

O2 sensor replacement is not a hard job. Both the upstream and downstream sensors are relatively easy to access. If you are throwing PO420 and PO430 codes, I'd just replace the downstream sensors. You can use Denso universal 4-wire sensors to save money and time, just cut the plug off the existing sensor, remove it, use heat-shink butt splices to join the new sensor to the old plug, and bolt it in.

The sensors can sometimes be difficult to remove. I usually start the engine, let is run for a couple of minutes, and then remove them with an open end wrench (I think they are 22 mm). They seem to come out easier when the exhaust is warm (but not hot), relative to cold. However, sometimes they are really rusted in and a bear to remove.

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