How long is your Hi-Lift..?

Discussion in 'Winching and Recovery' started by RiverRatMatt, Jun 11, 2018.

  1. RiverRatMatt

    RiverRatMatt

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    I know this is a really personal question and a touchy subject for some... but I'm wondering how long of a Hi-Lift I should have. Joking aside, I bought one years ago and decided to go for the longest option, figuring I could cut it down to size if I wanted.

    Now I'm a bit more concerned with weight and space on the rig, and I know that I don't need a super long jack - it will be carried on my mostly stock LX470 with 33'' tires.

    So the question is, how short should I cut it?
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2018
  2. UltraFJ40

    UltraFJ40 ที่นี่และมี SILVER Star

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    Mine is 48" but it's a little long for most of my needs.
     
  3. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew On the way there SILVER Star

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    Have you ever used it? If not, consider just getting rid of it.

    Very occasionally useful, but most of the times, it's an ornament.

    Consider in it's place, an extra Toyota bottle jack, which is always a good thing.
     
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  4. LandCruiserPhil

    LandCruiserPhil Peter Pan Syndrome Supporting Vendor

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    A hi-lift is the most unsafe way to change or service a tire. If you are using it for its original intended purpose you must be able to lift from the center of your front and rear bumper high enough to get the wheels off the ground. It most cases a 48" will work.
     
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  5. RiverRatMatt

    RiverRatMatt

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    I have used it, but not with this rig yet. I will cut it down to 48"
     
  6. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew On the way there SILVER Star

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    You can buy a shorter bar from Hi-Lift. I was given a 48 inch Hi-Lift and bought the longer bar from them directly.

    I can see that on a 100, very few places to place a Hi-Lift to jack it up. I like the wheel lift accessory and use that mostly and then place something real under the axle.

    But seriously, there are often better options to lift your truck. The factory screw jack is excellent, and with @LandCruiserPhil 's attachment, it's basically fool proof.
     
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  7. RiverRatMatt

    RiverRatMatt

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    Went through three hacksaw blades to get past the first part of the I-beam... going to have to get ahold of an angle grinder -.-
     
  8. badlander

    badlander

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    An abrasive cutoff saw is the best tool for cutting it off. If you dont have one do your self a favor and just go down to a welding shop and have them buzz it off for you. Probably wont even charge you. I purchased the long version then cut it off even with the top of the empty roof rack with the jack mounted on the slee bumper. That way no worries about clearance. It also allows clearance for the Foxwing awning. I think I only had to remove about 8 inches. Still plenty of length for jacking on the front or rear. With a loaded 100 lifting the entire end at once, front or rear, would be, in my opinion, very dangerous and also pushing the jack to its limits. I only lift one wheel at a time from either the wheel with the wheel adapter or from the left or right lifting points on the slee and arb bumpers.
    As a side note, a the full length jack bar will fit across the interior underneath the second row seats, which is also a very safe way to carry it inside the vehicle. It just clears the interior of the passenger doors by about 3/4"on each side and is held in place by the seat latches and weight of the seats. This is how i carried it prior to getting the slee bumper. I had the handle with its lifting mechanism removed from the bar and strapped down in the rear cargo compartment.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2018
  9. Ted44

    Ted44 SILVER Star

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    On an 80 I've found the 60" to be necessary. That truck goes a long way up before the wheel leaves the ground.
     
  10. hiluxjeremy

    hiluxjeremy

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    As a way to avoid maxing out a vehicles down travel before being able to get a wheel off the ground, a short length of chain ( or tree saver wrapped a couple times, suitably sized ratchet strap or several, use your head and what you have...) looped from a frame rail around your axle housing and back to itself at ride height will get you where you're going alot quicker by eliminating any droop. Many linked or extra flexy suspensions won't leave the ground with a 48' hilift, especially in less than ideal conditions.
     
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