How exactly does the startup system work?

[henke]

Ok, lx700h is completely dead. A couple of times when trying to turn it on it made weird clicking noises, the dash would flash on and off repeatedly, interior lights would flicker. Reminds me of trying to turn a phone on at 1%. After a few tries it now doesn't do anything.

Probably a 12v issue, so waiting for a jump. I was doing some work on the roof rack so the puddle lights were on more than usual, but I only drove it a week ago so that is kinda strange. Does the hybrid system need the 12v to be charged to start? I guess it might need the computers to be active?

Had an ultra gauge plugged in the obdii, and compressor plugged in (but turned off) the 120v at the back for testing. Not sure if those are related...

 

[Oakleyguy]

Yes you need 12v to start, if your main battery is dead the truck will not start as the ECU annd all standard systems are 12v. The high voltage hybrid system can be considered separate.

 

[Docyota]

Yep. Dead battery.

Or rats. I had a rat chew through my wife's gx460 wiring harness last year, same thing happened.

 

[henke]

Yes you need 12v to start, if your main battery is dead the truck will not start as the ECU annd all standard systems are 12v. The high voltage hybrid system can be considered separate.

Dang. I guess I gaslit myself into believing that the point of keeping the car on when running 12v accessory power was so that the hybrid system could condition the 12v, but I guess it was just the regular old alternator working.

 

[henke]

Ok, after this happened last month, I took it to the dealer who said the battery was fine. Had a nice 1k mile trip with it two weeks ago, then today it died again.

It also happened after I was working on the car for a while - drove in and out of garage, turned it on and off a few times to AHC the car up and down, left the doors open while working on the back. I did take care to make sure I wasn't ever on accessory power only, and that all the manual lights were off.

Is it just user error for turning the car on and off without driving a few miles? Leaving the doors open? I had an ultra gauge plugged into the obdii but that shouldn't drain that much right?

 

[Joe T]

I use my 600 about daily right now and with the decent weather sometimes leave the ignition ON so I get fan and radio. Hours on end but will occasionally start it to move it. Some days I am on jobsites for a large portion of the day.

They are dicking you around on a bad battery hopefully. If it has under 12k miles pull the battery and have it tested or buy a tester. So you can document it for the dealer. A good new battery is a few hundred $.

 

[henke]

I use my 600 about daily right now and with the decent weather sometimes leave the ignition ON so I get fan and radio. Hours on end but will occasionally start it to move it. Some days I am on jobsites for a large portion of the day.

They are dicking you around on a bad battery hopefully. If it has under 12k miles pull the battery and have it tested or buy a tester. So you can document it for the dealer. A good new battery is a few hundred $.

Hmm, I always try to leave both ignition and accessory off. Maybe I shouldn't...

AAA guy tested and said my battery was bad, but he's trying to sell me a battery. Dealership said they put it on the warranty tester and it came out good. They did say that the extra drain was from the ultra gauge, so I might have to unplug it when I'm not using it.

If I believe the dealership, then I would say that the car's computers stay on for a long time after ignition is turned off, so the ultra gauge doesn't get the "ignition off" signal and stays on as well, draining for a lot more time then other cars with simpler shut down routines. When I keep on moving the car in and out of the garage to work on it thereby triggering the ultra gauge on signal, the ultra gauge drains the battery completely when it stays on for an extended period of time.

 

[billjamin]

Hmm, I always try to leave both ignition and accessory off. Maybe I shouldn't...

AAA guy tested and said my battery was bad, but he's trying to sell me a battery. Dealership said they put it on the warranty tester and it came out good. They did say that the extra drain was from the ultra gauge, so I might have to unplug it when I'm not using it.

If I believe the dealership, then I would say that the car's computers stay on for a long time after ignition is turned off, so the ultra gauge doesn't get the "ignition off" signal and stays on as well, draining for a lot more time then other cars with simpler shut down routines. When I keep on moving the car in and out of the garage to work on it thereby triggering the ultra gauge on signal, the ultra gauge drains the battery completely when it stays on for an extended period of time.

I’m not sure I buy that ultra gauge thing. I get it stays on after because the computer is doing weird s***, but they don’t use much power. That’s suspect unless we’re talking about days on end. I even think ultra gauge advertises that it’ll take 100 days for it to drain your battery. There’s probably some more to dig into that about low power modes and display brightness. But I’ve just never heard of an obd tool killing a battery.

 

[henke]

I’m not sure I buy that ultra gauge thing. I get it stays on after because the computer is doing weird s***, but they don’t use much power. That’s suspect unless we’re talking about days on end. I even think ultra gauge advertises that it’ll take 100 days for it to drain your battery. There’s probably some more to dig into that about low power modes and display brightness. But I’ve just never heard of an obd tool killing a battery.

Yeah, but there is also a bit in the manual of the ultra gauge about battery drain so others must have had the same problem. Maybe it never went to low power mode in the first place.

BTW if someone knows how to get the transmission temp to show on ultra gauge please let me know... The default "Toyota" settings didn't work for me.

 

[carrera mike]

I now connect a battery tender on the LX (and the wife's NX) whenever I work inside while having the accessory/ignition ON without running the engine.

 

[Joe T]

Hmm, I always try to leave both ignition and accessory off. Maybe I shouldn't...

AAA guy tested and said my battery was bad, but he's trying to sell me a battery. Dealership said they put it on the warranty tester and it came out good. They did say that the extra drain was from the ultra gauge, so I might have to unplug it when I'm not using it.

If I believe the dealership, then I would say that the car's computers stay on for a long time after ignition is turned off, so the ultra gauge doesn't get the "ignition off" signal and stays on as well, draining for a lot more time then other cars with simpler shut down routines. When I keep on moving the car in and out of the garage to work on it thereby triggering the ultra gauge on signal, the ultra gauge drains the battery completely when it stays on for an extended period of time.

Hours on end with the fan, coolbox, and radio running. Rolling the windows up and down and opening the hatch occasionally too. I do move it sometimes.

 

[PatrickBateman]

Happened to me a couple of times after parking and not pressing the "P" button. Instead just turning the Power (start button) off.

 

[henke]

Just came back from a 4 day trip.

Got to the starting point on Friday, leader radioed to go to 4x4 when we turned off the road...
...
...
...no center lock! Was working fine last time I offroaded last month.

Tried both driving in D at low speeds, high and low range, and also engaging at neutral (procedure in the manual) but nothing worked. Always just stayed flashing.

Battery related? Not sure. It was definitely making sounds when I pushed the button, but the locker always stayed flashing. Dealer says battery is fine but it's been jumped twice already...

 

[Oakleyguy]

Just came back from a 4 day trip.

Got to the starting point on Friday, leader radioed to go to 4x4 when we turned off the road...
...
...
...no center lock! Was working fine last time I offroaded last month.

Tried both driving in D at low speeds, high and low range, and also engaging at neutral (procedure in the manual) but nothing worked. Always just stayed flashing.

Battery related? Not sure. It was definitely making sounds when I pushed the button, but the locker always stayed flashing. Dealer says battery is fine but it's been jumped twice already...

200s do this as well, especially if cold outside. Sometimes you need to restart the truck.

 

[henke]

200s do this as well, especially if cold outside. Sometimes you need to restart the truck.

Restarted a few times, always left on blinking. Temps were pretty high, 70-90 outside. What causes it on the 200? 12V issues?