hot key

[dtrain]

Getting out of the piggy (its a '69/'70) this morning I noticed my key was really hot. Then I felt the metal ring around the "key port" (where the key goes into the ignition) and it was even hotter.

Does this mean I have a bad ground on the ignition somewhere? Not even sure where to look on this one...

Thanks for any help!

 

[cruiser_guy]

I'd be looking HARD for any skimpy insulation. Something is about to happen it sounds like.

 

[DesertLake]

That's a short, not a bad ground. On something lacking a fuse.

 

[dtrain]

I'd be looking HARD for any skimpy insulation. Something is about to happen it sounds like.

Well, its been "warm" for a while and started getting hotter. What do you mean by "about to happen"? Fire??

That's a short, not a bad ground. On something lacking a fuse.

So... meaning that something is "directly connected" to the battery and shouldnt be? Or maybe the wrong size fuse?

Please explain short... Im a little new

 

[dtrain]

not sure if this matters... but it only get hot after its been driven for a little bit. Its not hot when just sitting.

 

[cruiser_guy]

Well, its been "warm" for a while and started getting hotter. What do you mean by "about to happen"? Fire??

So... meaning that something is "directly connected" to the battery and shouldnt be? Or maybe the wrong size fuse?

Please explain short... Im a little new

Yep, fire! If this is not taken care of soon I expect to read about a crispy FJ55!

An electrical short is a connection between the positive and negative battery terminals with NO load (light, radio or other device) in between.

 

[dtrain]

Yikes... that is probably my biggest fear.

I have done some electrical but this stumps me a little. So it sounds like I may have hooked something up and its "looping"?? Will the device still work even though its shorting?

 

[solidfrontaxle]

I'm surprised that nothing has happened yet. Not as in fire, but as in dead battery, burned up ignition, etc. I would guess its not neccissarily a short, but maybe a poor connection on the iginition. Pop it open and check the wiring where it comes into the back of it.

 

[cruiserbrett]

It may not be a direct short. could be just too much load going through the ignition switch. I am guessing you have a bunch of add on wiring, IE stereo, amp, driving lights or whatever that is pulling power off the fuse block or a wire tap after the switch...

 

[cruiser_guy]

It may not be a direct short. could be just too much load going through the ignition switch. I am guessing you have a bunch of add on wiring, IE stereo, amp, driving lights or whatever that is pulling power off the fuse block or a wire tap after the switch...

Totally possible, but eventually this can also lead to some unexpected crispyness c/w flames and smoke!!

If this is the problem you can easily correct it with relays and wiring direct to the battery terminals. Please make SURE you know what you are doing though

I have a ham radio and a power inverter in my BJ60 (both heavy power users) and they are wired direct to the battery with 8 ga. wire, a fuse at the battery terminal and a relay to shut the device down when the ignition is off. Most stock wiring is 16 or more likely 18 ga. wire which is really too small for any decent loads. 18 ga. wire is about 1/16" in diameter and the 8 ga wire is closer to 3/16" diameter (both including the insulation). The fatter the wire (larger cross-sectional area) the higher amp load it can carry before overheating.

 

[Living in the Past]

Could also be something as simple as worn out ignition switch. If the points are worn in the switch and not making good connection anymore it will heat up at that point just for a lack of a good connection. Also check the wires at switch. Are they warm? If so how far away from the switch are they warm? If they cool off away from the switch chances are the switch is the problem. Another thing to check is the connections at the fuses. If you are over amping it's probably warm in more than one spot.

 

[nuclearlemon]

if the switch is getting hot when key's on, but not when off, i'd suspect the switch itself. as mentioned, check the temp on the wires both after sitting and after running.

 

[dtrain]

Could also be something as simple as worn out ignition switch. If the points are worn in the switch and not making good connection anymore it will heat up at that point just for a lack of a good connection. Also check the wires at switch. Are they warm? If so how far away from the switch are they warm? If they cool off away from the switch chances are the switch is the problem. Another thing to check is the connections at the fuses. If you are over amping it's probably warm in more than one spot.

Great advice... thank you!!

 

[dtrain]

Reporting back...

Ran an experiment on the way to work today.

I am running 2 elec fans to cool a 4core alum radiator for a SBC350. One is hooked up to come on when the key it turned to "power-on" with a 20amp fuse in the fuse panel and the other is setup on a temp switch/relay setup that turns on at 185'.

So… pulled the 20amp fuse to the power-on fan to see if the amp draw was heating things up. The motor heated up and was steady at 190 with one fan and started to creep over to the 210 range. By now, the ignition would get fairly hot and it was as cool a cucumber. I still needed the fan to cool things down so I could get to work (one fan works but doesn’t really cut it in stop and go traffic) so I popped the fuse in. Sure enough… when I was almost to work the ignition was starting to get hot.

Problem solved… I have 3 “solutions” to the issue sitting in the my garage: (1) a 70amp relay from 12voltguy-probably overkill (2) a 35amp bosch relay (3) another temp switch/relay. Most likely going to install number (3) so the truck gets to operating temp a bit faster and I think it’s a bit “cleaner”.

In the future, I will be getting a SPAWL unit that will spin the fans up and down as needed based on temp so I can get rid of that “screaming fan” on the trail. From all the money I have spent to date troubleshooting/trying various cooling setups… I could have easily afforded one of the units (they are not cheap). Another lesson learned I guess.


Thanks for all the replied and help! Its very much appreciated!

 

[nuclearlemon]

So your fan currently has no relay in the wiring?

 

[dtrain]

So your fan currently has no relay in the wiring?

Only the second fan. First fan does not... only a fuse

 

[dtrain]

The temp control unit is installed and things seem to be much happier. I just need to tune it in a little and have it kick in at a lower temp. Going to run all the wires a little more clean tonight.

Right now: Fan#1 comes on at 175' and the second (when needed) at 190'

Thanks for all the help and input!!

 

[solidfrontaxle]

Could you talk about your temp control system? I never thought of doing something like that, but I am now....

 

[cruiser_guy]

Could you talk about your temp control system? I never thought of doing something like that, but I am now....

I've done something similar when I had an early Dodge Cummins pickup. They were known to overheat easily. I left the engine powered fan as is and found a plug in the cooling jacket of the head. I took the plug to the local parts dealer and bought a normally open thermostatic switch that closes at 190 F (5 F over the engine thermostat fully open temperature) and threads into the plug hole. Then I ran a wire from the battery through a fuse, the switch and to an electric fan and to ground. The fan only came on if the truck continued to heat after the thermostat was fully open. The electric fan did come on but only occasionally when needed.

No screaming fans when not needed.

 

[solidfrontaxle]

Cool! Does a 2f have an empty plug?