Build Høøfy's build thread

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Joined
Dec 6, 2025
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Figured I wouldn't blow up the what did you do to your 80 thread and start a build thread finally

1996 HDJ81 VX Limited

Last winter I purchased a 1996 Land Cruiser HDJ81 VX Limited from Heat lighting imports in GA — RHD, 1HD-FT 4.2L turbo diesel, A442F auto, full-time 4WD with center diff lock and rear LSD. It came over at 199,577 km with a clean auction history (no accidents, no rollback), and it’s now my daily. It’s at 218,749 km as I write this.

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Build philosophy

OEM-plus, period-correct, reversible. The goal is a truck that looks and feels like something a JDM owner could have built in the late 90s — analog gauges and factory engineering preserved wherever possible.

This is my daily driver and highway truck first, with light off-road duty. Reliability beats power.

Work done so far

**Transmission (A442F)**

- Replaced all four shift solenoids, new filter, pan drop
- Replaced the kickdown cable
- Three drain-and-fill passes with Valvoline MaxLife (Dexron III), most recent at 216,574 km
- Shifts are noticeably crisper and lockup behavior is consistent (~2,090 RPM at 100 km/h on 285s)

**Intercooler + trans cooling**

- PDI large-core front-mount intercooler, 1HD-FT auto spec, with the integrated 12-plate 34,000 BTU transmission cooler.

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**Exhaust & boost control**

- 3” custom turbo-back with magnaflow muffler. I have it dumping behind the rear drivers side middle passenger.
- Trust TVVC boost controller, cab-mounted with vacuum lines through the firewall — period-correct chrome/yellow Trust unit (same product GReddy sold as the VVC Type Mini)
- GReddy turbo timer with the HDJ80/1HD-FT plug-in harness — need to install
- SAAS ST1208 catch can, installed at 218,500 km

**Gauges (Omori 52mm, all mechanical)**

- Boost: installed and baselined — 0.6 bar cruising, 0.8 bar on a hard pull, stock CT26/actuator
- EGT: gauge installed, sensor plumbing needs done
- Oil pressure: gauge installed, capillary line run to the engine bay and SAAS sandwich plate at the oil filter as a source.
- Mounted in a 4x4 Concepts A-pillar pod; power wiring and final pillar mounting still to do
- No TVVC adjustments until the EGT gauge is reading. Boost without EGT on a diesel is flying blind.

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**Electrical & lighting**

- Pair of KASLIGHT negative-switched H4 relay harnesses so I can run dual high/low quads.
- Dual battery setup: left side stays 24V starting duty, passenger side runs 12V accessories
- Factory RS3000 alarm being properly reintegrated — building extension harnesses from extra OEM connectors instead of cutting the factory loom. Only thing left is to install the 6p extension harnesses.

**Speedo & rolling stock**

- Falken Rubitrail A/T LT285/75R16E
- Lutz LTZ-80SCD speedometer calibrator, dialed in at −2.5% against live GPS at highway speed.
- For fuel loggin g after corrected MPG has been running 17.4–19.6 US MPG depending on the tank, right in the expected range for an auto HDJ81.

**Suspension, phase 1**

- Sway bar service complete, both ends
- Riding on about 1-2" drop springs and TEMS shocks for now

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## In progress

- **Steering pump**: confirmed leaking, OEM replacement planned.
- **Suspension, phase 2**: OEM front and rear panhard bars, OEM upper rear control arms, and SPC 25960 adjustable lower rears all on order with fresh OEM hardware. Trailing arms are still a decision point (re-bush vs. new OEM vs. Delta). Once the links are in: OME 2861/2862 springs and nitrochargers going in.
- **Trans temp gauge**: hunting Yahoo Auctions for a period-correct mechanical Omori to fill the last pod slot. A442F lives at 80–90°C and starts cooking around 120°C, so the gauge needs to read to at least 150°C.

## Future plans

**Fueling & turbo **

- Bailey’s Diesel blueprinted injector set (keeping my originals as spare cores)
- Fresh OEM injector lines
- HD Automotive HD-G333 “Titan” turbo with the Tillix split-pulse merge manifold (HPC coated), installed together
- Mamba adjustable CT26-pattern wastegate actuator (0.8 bar base spring) targeting ~18 psi
- All of this waits on the full gauge cluster being live — boost, EGT, oil pressure, and trans temp reading before anything gets turned up

**Chassis & brakes**

- ARB winch bumper up front and a heavy rear bumper
- DBA 4000 slotted rotors with EBC Greenstuff pads (DP6992/DP6993)
- Knuckle and birfield service is overdue and will be its own standalone job.

**The long-term maybe**

- ZF 8HP70 swap. The 8HP70 variant is the right one for the torque target, and the plan would be sourcing everything independently rather than buying a kit. Filed under “someday” — the A442F gets a fair shot first.

## Maintenance baseline, for the record

Rotella T6 5W-40 on the 5,000 km interval. Amsoil gear oil in the diffs and transfer (Slip Lock in the rear LSD), MaxLife in the trans, Type T in the steering. Timing belt was done at 191,505 km.

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Some current things going on.

Some bozo was recklessly driving and covered me in rocks. Thankfully I had a dash cam and my insurance agrees I'm not a faultl. Shop painted the entire front end and the whole roof.

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After I got the truck back from the shop yesterday, I had the unfortunate opportunity to learn the ins and outs of the sunroof system.

The sunroof decided it didn’t want to close yesterday night around 9, and I ended up to the point of having to drop the headliner and take out the entire sunroof assembly. It turns out the bracket on the back side of the glass pushed up and got knocked off the track preventing me from manually closing the sunroof. Since everything was out, I cleaned everything up really well re-greased all the tracks and shampooed the liner

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Let me tell you taking that down, putting it all back up and not breaking the sunroof when I did this all by myself is a miracle. I still need to assemble the electronics to see why the sunroof is not working, but I believe it is the sunroof control module. I think over multiple heat cycles and then finally settling in Texas, it's given up on life. I don’t think it’s the motor because I just bought a new one and I’m getting power to the switch but it’s only about 5 V making me believe it’s the module.


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and since the headliner is down, I am going to throw some sound and insulation up there, shampoo the headliner, clean up all of the trim pieces, put the headliner back up and call it a day.
 
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I ordered both sound deadening and close cell foam they should be here tomorrow. I'm in the middle of cleaning the headliner and I might be sick


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The darker area is the stain of 30 years. It literally is night and day:rofl:
 
I think I've got the headliner as clean as I can get it. Going to work on visors and pillar stuff tomorrow but you can see the difference.


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And in case anyone was wondering what the water looks like

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Well ordered quite a bit since the headliner is down and I don't want to do this ever again.

Ordered a new wolfbox G900 tripro with the OEM mount, delta 80 series mirror mount and a new sunroof relay that looks to be in really good condition. I need to verify the top rear speakers and order a new pair to replace the OEM. All the prep stuff and sound deadening and insulation is here and I'll be doing that tomorrow morning when it cool outside.

Separate ongoing projects,

I ordered a blower resistor since I just lost all but my high fan. Dropped the motor basket and it was actually pretty clean. Also ordered the last harness I'll need to make the RS3000 and Lutz adapter work with my HDJ81. I really need the door unlock/lock plug but since I can afford the whole harness I keep the extra stuff as backup parts. Finally, have a pair of led turn signals, an oring for my oil gauge and some bullet connectors so I can install my turbo timer.

Once this is all done, plan is to buy another kickdown cable since the little metal crimp piece got lost during installation.
 
Started to get the insulation and sound deadening in today. Should be an easy enough job

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Are you pulling out all the old cotton waste insulation?
I removed it from my previous cruiser and added dynamat between ribs and then closed cell foam over the whole roof spanning across the ribs.
The self adhesive closed cell foam i used had foil on the face. Its worth the time to cut little pieces to fill any gaps, and I taped all seams with foil tape for maximum heat blocking. Heat find its way through gaps.

Definitely made a difference in the aussie summer heat
 
Really nice LandCruiser, man. Remember with the sound deadening material, panel coverage doesn't have to be 100% to get good effect, and that stuff can get pretty heavy if you weigh how many sheets you install. Since its going at the tallest point of the truck, it has a lever arm effect when cornering, so no need to go crazy up top. The biggest result will be your door panels, trans tunnel and firewall - as these transmit reflected road noise up through the body, and wind noise from the front wheels down the sides.

You've found a great RHD example, and should be a fun project,
 
Remember with the sound deadening material, panel coverage doesn't have to be 100% to get good effect,
The roof is a big flat panel, it's exactly the type of panel that will get resonant vibrations in it.
I would aim to cover the majority of the flat sections between ribs with deadener, you're right it doesn't need to be 100%.

The foam, covering the whole roof will make a difference, and you only get one shot at it, unless you want to remove the whole liner again
 
Are you pulling out all the old cotton waste insulation?
I removed it from my previous cruiser and added dynamat between ribs and then closed cell foam over the whole roof spanning across the ribs.
The self adhesive closed cell foam i used had foil on the face. Its worth the time to cut little pieces to fill any gaps, and I taped all seams with foil tape for maximum heat blocking. Heat find its way through gaps.

Definitely made a difference in the aussie summer heat
Yes I actually just finished and ripped out that insulation the best I could. Luckily I was able to get good adhesion throughout the laying and covered everything 🙂

I really didn't want to go back up there ever again 😅

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Really nice LandCruiser, man. Remember with the sound deadening material, panel coverage doesn't have to be 100% to get good effect, and that stuff can get pretty heavy if you weigh how many sheets you install. Since its going at the tallest point of the truck, it has a lever arm effect when cornering, so no need to go crazy up top. The biggest result will be your door panels, trans tunnel and firewall - as these transmit reflected road noise up through the body, and wind noise from the front wheels down the sides.

You've found a great RHD example, and should be a fun project,


I appreciate the advise and already covered it all 😅 I didn't even bother dropping the entire sunroof again and just laid it over top. Overall really happy.

It's a great example getting better every day!
 
Only other thing I'm going to try and get done today is the turn signal housings. I tried to modify my passenger side so that I can clear the PDI intercooler tube, but unfortunately, I ended up modifying the top instead of the bottom.

Instead of trying to purchase a second set and modify, I bought a pair of LED housing. This way, I can always remove the whole housing, screw in the face of the signal and then just tape off with the LED plugged into the stock connector.

I decided to go with these clear ones.

 
Took a drive with the family and man what a difference already. We would be usually sweating but we noticed we were actually relatively cool. Going to say this was a huuuge success.


Also got my led turn signals in and honestly I kinda like them. I had to completely cut the housings to make them fit but I knew that coming in. Have to figure out a way to seal them from the elements now.

They even came with DRL, sequential turn signals and hyper flash modules which was super cool.

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Well I ended up hating the led with the current light set up and heavily modified my stock one. Overall, it works great and doesn't hit the tube anymore but unfortunately they're uglier than sin 😂

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While I'm waiting on the like new sunroof control module and wolfbox to get here, I ordered some new speakers for the two top 2.75" speakers
 
Well the rear speakers came in and were super easy to wire. Plan to do the 4" speakers tomorrow and then I just have the doors left.
 
Well I'm going to have some fun soon. New front and rear panhard bars and upper and lower control arms with all new hardware.

The only thing else I have after this are the radius arms and then shocks and coils. Once that’s done, the suspension is completely brand new.

I also have my new sunroof control module coming in today, so I’ll be able to test if the sunroof is working again. The dash cam and the delta mirror arm will be here Monday.

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Well I was able to change out the front and rear panhard bars and upper and lower control arm today. The rear lower control arms were swapped with SPC ones. Haven't taken it for a drive yet but wasn't too hard of a swap even with my lowering springs. The best advice I'd give is losen your rear lower shock bolts but don't take them all the way out. That was the easiest way I found to get out the rear control arm bolts.

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