Hood hinge modification for better access?

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Mark W said:
The problem with putting'40 hood hinges on a '60 or '55 is that the cowling od pretty light sheet metal and will not handle the stress of hinges. You could reinforce it, but you could not use it as is just by drilling holes for the bolts.


Mark...
Click to expand...

I was thinking about the best way to do that earlier today. The hood itself shouldn't be too much of an issue because you have access to the back side for support, but the cowl is more difficult. Maybe plating on top? I don't know, an interesting idea for sure...
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
I was thinking about the best way to do that earlier today. The hood itself shouldn't be too much of an issue because you have access to the back side for support, but the cowl is more difficult. Maybe plating on top? I don't know, an interesting idea for sure...
Click to expand...


The cowling panel can be removed. Then you could fab up a mount to go underneath it, with holes drilled through the cowling to attach the hinges to the mount underneath.


Mark...
 
Also, the curved shape of the 60/62 hood/body seam will not allow the hinge rotation point to be located at the seam like 40/45 hinges.
 
shim it.


Mark...
 
'Which model BMW did you work on with vertical hood hinges? Do all BMWs have them?
Do you think the BMW hinges might adapt to the fj60?'

Not many actually work like the e36 sedan- it's a quirk of the body panel fitment
that they can get away with it. It's just a 2" lever extension that acts as a pivot-
when you pull the bolt and manually lift on the hood, the extentions rotate, the hood opens another
20 degrees, and since it has hydraulic lifts, the lifts then lock the hood up.

The kicker is that the hinges have to allow this, and I'd have to go look at
the cruiser to see if the 60 version does.... if it looks do- able, I'll post pix.

t
 
On my beater FJ60, the driver's side hood assist spring has been removed & discarded to improve access to brakes, carb, manifolds, PS...

Note that in ROW markets, the assist springs & sound deadener pad are simply not installed.
 
FJ40Jim said:
On my beater FJ60, the driver's side hood assist spring has been removed & discarded to improve access to brakes, carb, manifolds, PS...

Note that in ROW markets, the assist springs & sound deadener pad are simply not installed.
Click to expand...
Removing one spring seems to be a good compromise. I removed both, but hood lever in cab would not even "pop" open the main latch! I put both springs back on; but now will try your method!
 
TobyB said:
'Which model BMW did you work on with vertical hood hinges? Do all BMWs have them?
Do you think the BMW hinges might adapt to the fj60?'

Not many actually work like the e36 sedan- it's a quirk of the body panel fitment
that they can get away with it. It's just a 2" lever extension that acts as a pivot-
when you pull the bolt and manually lift on the hood, the extentions rotate, the hood opens another
20 degrees, and since it has hydraulic lifts, the lifts then lock the hood up.

The kicker is that the hinges have to allow this, and I'd have to go look at
the cruiser to see if the 60 version does.... if it looks do- able, I'll post pix.

t
Click to expand...
I considered that, but I think there would have to be a "sliding" forward feature incorporated with the additional hinge point if you stick with fj60 original hinges.
 
FJ40Jim said:
On my beater FJ60, the driver's side hood assist spring has been removed & discarded to improve access to brakes, carb, manifolds, PS...

Note that in ROW markets, the assist springs & sound deadener pad are simply not installed.
Click to expand...
Not to hi-jack this thread I started; But, which vac lines on the latest and greatest Desmog diagram are just for show and really are not needed and/or do nothing? Seems like I have read where you stated that line to dist primary is not needed and the line to choke breaker is not needed.
 
That has got to be the biggest hi-jack i have ever seen ... but does it matter if you do it to your own thread?? Guess not
 
Mark W said:
Seriously? With pictures too I assume?

I hope you are joking.

If you really need to ask to have this explained, then I am not sure than doing your own maintenance is a good idea.


Mark...
Click to expand...

were all not as smart and knowledgable as others on here.....

At some point in "YOUR" life you didn't know either.:hhmm:
 
FJ40Jim said:
On my beater FJ60, the driver's side hood assist spring has been removed & discarded to improve access to brakes, carb, manifolds, PS...
Note that in ROW markets, the assist springs & sound deadener pad are simply not installed.
Click to expand...

Wow. Great idea.
Done.
:cheers:
 
alaska60 said:
were all not as smart and knowledgable as others on here.....

At some point in "YOUR" life you didn't know either.:hhmm:
Click to expand...


I did not know how to remove 8 bolts and lift a hood off? Well... when I was 5 maybe.

And it would have been a bad idea for me to undertake maintenance on a '60 at that level of cluelessness too.

Are you saying that YOU need a detailed step by step explanation of this process before attempting to remove the hood on your rig????

You don't find a request for this sort of overly detailed explanation for a rock simple operation like this to be a bit silly?


I do... the procedures that I see people asking for detailed write ups and pictures for are at times absurd.


I have noticed that you seem to look for reasons to take exception to a number of my posts here in Mud. Please feel free to use the ignore button.


Mark...
 
Well, Alaska, Mark W. does have a valid point... Granted, his response may show a bit of impatience, but, I suspect, as he's been hammering on Cruisers a long time, he's seen (and prolly has had to fix), his fair share of bone-head repairs. Now ford may be 15 or 50, I dunno, but really, if you can't just look at that stuff and figure it out - or just take it apart and learn by having it fall on your head, then you need to read a few boox before trying. Even the Haynes manual wouldn't have it!

I've said this before, and I'll repeat here what Marv Specter said to me the first time I walked up to the SOR counter to buy something: "... If ya can't work on a Cruiser, you might as well cut your tools in half and throw 'em away..."
 
Mark W said:
The cowling panel can be removed. Then you could fab up a mount to go underneath it, with holes drilled through the cowling to attach the hinges to the mount underneath.


Mark...
Click to expand...
Which cowling panel can be removed on the fj60 and what is your recommended method?
 
ford said:
Which cowling panel can be removed on the fj60 and what is your recommended method?
Click to expand...



Actually I made my comments about removing the cowl panel with the '55 and mini-trucks in mind which are the rigs I had looked at when I considered this mod. Did not stop to think about the difference in the construction of the '60 as I sat at the computer/

As I am sure you have noticed, the cowl panel is not removable on the '60 series rigs.

If I was going to retrofit '40 hinges to a '60 I would look at putting large area reinforcing plates on top of the cowling and just anchoring to this instead of to mounts built up underneath which is the approach I would take on a Pig or mini-truck. It would look a bit utilitarian, but '40 hinges on a '60 would anyway.


Mark...
 
well, I parked the e36 next to the Toyota...

You MIGHT be able to add a hinge between the stock lift and the hood. You'd have to get
the pivot as close to the cowl as you could, and THEN add some beefy lifts to guarantee
that the stock hinge went up first, then the additional hinge could take over when the stock
one ran out of travel.

It would be a ****ton of work, and probably take some trial and error.
Error would be wiping out the passenger's wiper...

Me, I think I'll just buy another droplight...
 
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