Anyone know a part number or recommendation for a good 24volt r134a AC compressor for my 12HT HJ61?
Thanks
Thanks
HJ61 24v 134a AC Compressor? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Otterlifter
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I have a 12HT swapped into my FJ60. I used a newer (I believe it is a third gen) 4runner AC compressor. Unfortunately mine is 12volts so I dont know if it is useful for your application, but it wasnt too expensive and it bolted up absolutely perfectly, and it works very well after I swapped my system to R134. I can track down the PN if youre interested.
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Thank you for your help, that one does look different from mine.
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- #5
Cool thank you, I’m gonna try and stick with 24volt though.
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Here’s what my current one looks like.
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
I've had two hj61s that were retrofitted to 134a. replaced the receiver/dryer and evaporator, new O-rings are obviously the pressure fittings. The stock compressor didn't fail and still works on the current truck, it's been retrofitted 7+ years
The compressor isn’t 24v, just the front compressor clutch is. If yours still works/engages when power is applied, just fit it into a denso compressor that mounts to your bracket. Then fill with proper 134a oil. That’s what we did when we built the ac system from scratch on our 24v HJ60 with a 2H that never had AC . But I bet the 12ht isn’t all that different.
This is the one that worked for us. Just rented a compressor clutch puller from autozone for free, then swapped out the 12v clutch that came on it with a 24v compressor clutch. Worked great.
Amazon.com: Denso 471-0432 Remanufactured Compressor with Clutch: Automotive
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Yours looks similar to the way it mounts in a 2H in my HJ60
From what I remember, new ones don’t come with the top outlet and inlet pipes, so you will have to take those from your old one and mount on your new one. But you need to change out the o rings anyways if you are converting to 134a, so would have to remove them anyways.
From what I remember, new ones don’t come with the top outlet and inlet pipes, so you will have to take those from your old one and mount on your new one. But you need to change out the o rings anyways if you are converting to 134a, so would have to remove them anyways.
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Yeah if you had the PN that would be great, I’d like to check out that option too. Thanks!
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That’s very helpful, thank you.
@KeepCruzin got a part number? Need one of these. Thanks!
Hey there. I know…old thread. I have an hj61 and it just started blowing warm. I think it’s my expansion valve, but further diagnostics are necessary. Although as of right now I can’t find anyone to purge my R12. So figured I’d do the r134a conversion.
Do you have part numbers for the receiver/dryer and evaporator that you used? Why did you change the evaporator? Is that a must?
thanks in advance. any help would be much appreciated
cheers
kevin in okinawa
SILVER Star
sorry, I do not have the part numbers, but you should be able to figure them out by examining the parts diagrams on Partsouq (just be sure to use the Toyota/Land Cruiser/Land Cruiser (the top selection with no associated series number)/then under the "Filters" section click in "Frame" there you can scroll down to HJ61. Knowing the model (i.e., mine is MEMZX) is helpful, but at least select the correct year range. Not all HJ61s are 24v (JDMs always are though) so be careful.
I was told that those components should be replaced for the conversion. Get new o-rings for everything too.
If it’s blowing warm air already, it probably already leaked out most if not all it’s r12. Good time to upgrade to r134a.
You know typically I would totally agree but it was so sudden. One day (and for the last 3 years that I’ve owned the vehicle) it’s blowing icicles….and then out of nowhere without warning it’s not. There wasn’t that gradual less and less cold air and then one day it’s out.
pin any case my problem right now is finding a facility to purge the R12. Any suggestions?
ty
As I understand the usual recommendation is to replace the dryer and expansion valve when recharging or diagnosing the system.
If you're going to replace the expansion valve, you can replace the evaporator while you're in there as the bulk of the hassle is getting the whole assembly out from under the glove box - they're available new w/ Denso part number W0133-1748697 and were pretty reasonably priced as of earlier this year ($115). If you don't suspect the evaporator for leaks, or are able to get it pressure tested and/or cleaned and/or whatever else, it should be fine to leave indefinitely. My system was open to the environment for a few years so I figured I might as well replace it as well while at it.
