Help with transmission mod (1 Viewer)

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Apr 5, 2019
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Deerfield, MA
Hi All,

I'm not sure this is the right forum for this question but I'm hoping somebody can help me out before I screw this up any more. I swapped a 1KZ-TE into my 2001 Taco V6. I kept the automatic transmission that engine came with but I swapped the AWD transfer case for a manual, J-shift case. The problem is that the shaft from the KZ is a little longer so I had a 30mm gap between the end of the transmission and the Tcase. My solution was to cut off the end of the old AWD tcase (so the bolt holes lined up), mill it to the right thickness,

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and I stuck it in between the transmission and the tail housing. It bolted up great, but somehow I didn't realize that transmission fluid gets into the tail housing

IMG-5719(1).JPG


So now I'm leaking fluid since the cavities in my shim don't line up with the cavities in the tail housing

My plan is to fill the voids in the transmission side of the tail housing

IMG-5718(1).JPG




so I have a couple questions. Will epoxy work? I am thinking I will pour the epoxy with my milled shim in place, that way the epoxy will also act like a gasket to keep transmission fluid from leaking. It doesn't need to be strong at all, it just needs to fill those holes and keep fluid from leaking out. Is there a type of epoxy that is best for filling a void like that? And am I missing something obvious and just going to make the problem worse?

Thanks for any help!
 
Pretty creative work there. I can only guess about blocking the fluid leak. As long as it doesn't have to get into where your blocking it, I would guess it's fine. Or if it HAS to circulate through under pressure or something. If it's just basically a sump I would think you're good to go.

As far as epoxy, I've seen Devcon and others that include aluminum and titanium fillers. I saw them when I was searching for an epoxy a while back. I even used aluminum shavings from my own lathe and mill to fill a void in an aluminum intake manifold a few years ago and it's still holding. It was the heat riser passage so I was concerned about expansion and contraction.

Good luck and post up if it works.
 
Thanks for the reply. I could probably shorten the shaft or machine a better shim, the problem is that it's my daily driver and I've only got one day to fix it
 
I feel like your adapter design leaves something to be desired. You've effectively eliminated two mounting bolts right?

Why not CNC plasma cut or laser out a 30mm thick plate that's got your bolt pattern and cavities for the fluid?
 
Make a thinish aluminum plate to seal the trans side, machine spacer to allow for plate thickness set/seal plate to trans install spacer, you could drill and tap some small holes across botton of trans case laid out so as not to hit spacer that would seal it up.
 
I feel like your adapter design leaves something to be desired. You've effectively eliminated two mounting bolts right?

Why not CNC plasma cut or laser out a 30mm thick plate that's got your bolt pattern and cavities for the fluid?
That is definitely what I should have done originally but I was being cheap and I had the old AWD case sitting there.... I actually used some spacers to keep those two corner bolts.

Now I'm trying to figure out a solution I can do in one day and I don't have my own machine shop or anything.
 
That is definitely what I should have done originally but I was being cheap and I had the old AWD case sitting there.... I actually used some spacers to keep those two corner bolts.

Now I'm trying to figure out a solution I can do in one day and I don't have my own machine shop or anything.

You already said you used a mill, but ok.

If you know how to make DXFs, you can draw the bolt pattern and use a service like send cut send to have a part made for you.


I'm saying this because I'm not sure I'd trust epoxy or anything else to seal that fluid inside, unless you can find a single port to be plugged.
 

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