Help with BP-51 rear shock mount placement (1 Viewer)

[Overlandlc200]

I’m installing some BudBuilt shock mount sliders. I was an idiot and removed the shock from the mount. Any ideas how to compress the BP-51 shock to be able to get it back on the mount?

 

[RobRed]

Factory toyota bottle jack should get it done.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Jack the rear up, remove the ramp, and droop axle

 

[Overlandlc200]

Jacked up the body and it raised the shock. Worked great. Thanks.

 

[kcjaz]

The BB gaurds are a good idea. My passinger rear mount took a beating at LCDC and the plactic BP-51 guard got a little chewed up.

I think you can and probably should leave the plastic gaurd on too to protect the shaft of the shock.

 

[Overlandlc200]

I could not get my plastic guards to stay in place. Every time I looked they were loose and banging around. Maybe they were installed wrong initially but a reputable dealer installed them. Couldn’t figure it out.
Just received a new shock. Maybe I’ll give it another shot with the plastic guard.

 

[RET2]

I could not get my plastic guards to stay in place. Every time I looked they were loose and banging around. Maybe they were installed wrong initially but a reputable dealer installed them. Couldn’t figure it out.
Just received a new shock. Maybe I’ll give it another shot with the plastic guard.

Skip the plastic and go to Bud Built.

 

[kcjaz]

Skip the plastic and go to Bud Built.

I thought I read somewhere on Mud (I think a post by @Markuson ?) that you could run both and actually needed to because the BB guards do not protect the shaft at full travel. I supose, that when you are at full travel, you are not going fast so flying rocks pitting the shaft are probably not a concern.

 

[TeCKis300]

Definitely want the guard on that protects the hardened shaft from being sandblasted over time. Scoring and pitting the shaft will cause it to prematurely leak and fail.

 

[Markuson]

I thought I read somewhere on Mud (I think a post by @Markuson ?) that you could run both and actually needed to because the BB guards do not protect the shaft at full travel. I supose, that when you are at full travel, you are not going fast so flying rocks pitting the shaft are probably not a concern.

Not sure that was me, and I would not follow that speed idea...but I may have commented that the supplied guards on the BPs aren’t very secure as mine are gone. BB guards do have room to keep them, so if you still have your built in guards, leave them on even on with BB.

BB shock guards are tough as nails and I’m a fan. I run the stainless fwiw and they’ve taken impacts many times. They do not budge.

 

[RET2]

I thought I read somewhere on Mud (I think a post by @Markuson ?) that you could run both and actually needed to because the BB guards do not protect the shaft at full travel. I supose, that when you are at full travel, you are not going fast so flying rocks pitting the shaft are probably not a concern.

Just for grins what percentage of the time do you think you are at "full travel"?

 

[RET2]

Shock Shafts Matter, sorry couldn't resist.

Definitely want the guard on that protects the hardened shaft from being sandblasted over time. Scoring and pitting the shaft will cause it to prematurely leak and fail.

 

[kcjaz]

Just for grins what percentage of the time do you think you are at "full travel"?

I would say not very often. LCDC was possibly the first time it may have happened in my case. Still there is probably a reason OME designed their guards to cover the full length of the shaft. Plastic does not seem to be the best choice of material though.