Help...rear disc conversion shopping list

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Threads
54
Messages
483
Location
Harrisburg, NC
Greetings to all...I did a search on this and found a few ideas but I wanted to see if others are using the same list across the board for an FJ40 rear disc conversion...I have the reer axle ready for conversion...this is the info that I have found..

brackets from ruff stuff
rotors from GM or Chevy p/u truck early 90's (machined??)
calipers from Monte Carlo late 70's model (77,78 or 79??)
brake lines??..heard you can use some off a Toyota 4Runner..or an old Nissan...
I'm probably missing a few items such as bolts, pads, etc...can anyone help me finish my list??...I'm trying to motivate myself so I can get the FJ up and running to URE this summer...thanks..Roger
 
List

(2) New Vented Rotors

(2) Caliper brackets

(10) 3/8 - 24 x 1 1/4 grade 8 bolts

(10) 3/8 grade 8 lock washers

(10) 38 – 24 grade 8 nuts

Installation Instructions

Remove the axles and then the backing plates. (Pinch off the rubber line between the frame and axle. This will keep all the fluid in the lines and make it easier when you bleed the system.)
Install the caliper brackets to the inside surface of the housing. (You can use any position you like)
Reinstall the axles. (Make sure the 2 screws are out of the axles & it is flat around the hole.)
Install the rotors on the studs and hold in place by the wheel nuts, check the rotors for any wobble. Under .010 would work o.k.
Install the 78 - 83 Monte Carlo front calipers or 79 - 85 Eldorado rear calipers. Grind off any projections on the calipers that might hit the bracket.
You can use the 1977 or newer Land Cruiser brake booster. The 75 Land Cruiser has a one inch master cylinder which can also be used. The residual valves are in the outlets where the brake lines screw into the master cylinder. These need to be removed. You can use a large front reservoir in the rear cylinder to compensate for the larger rear caliper pistons.
An adjustable proportioning valve will probably be needed in the line going to the rear brakes because you now have more rear brakes than you had before. You can convert from metric to U.S. brake lines by using 3/16 U.S. steel brake line, cut off one end, slip on a metric brake end and re-flare.
If you have a spongy pedal and bench bleeding the master cylinder and a thorough bleeding of the system does not cure the problem, read through the troubleshooting sheet. You must remove the calipers from the brackets and hold in the correct position to get the air out.

I pulled this from TSM MFG. CO., INC. this is what I use and have found the best fit on the market everytime. 269.95 for the kit with brackets and rotors and hardware and teh 14" and 44" stainles lines are nice as well for 50 bucks.

get your calipers loaded from your local parts store.

may need a 2lb residual valve but most dont

and switch to the 1994 disc brake brake booster.

Cam
 
Whoa.....thanks for the heads up...checked out the website..anyone else try these??....luckily the rear axle is off and rebuilt, just waiting for some magic to happen...you mentioned switching to a 1994 disc brake booster...I assume you mean a Toyota Landcruiser...or any 1994 Toyota SUV??..I'm gonna check out Napa or Autozone for the parts to cross check cost...R
 
Last edited:
Whoa.....thanks for the heads up...checked out the website..anyone else try these??....luckily the rear axle is off and rebuilt, just waiting for some magic to happen...you mentioned switching to a 1994 disc brake booster...I assume you mean a Toyota Landcruiser...or any 1994 Toyota SUV??..I'm gonna check out Napa or Autozone for the parts to cross check cost...R

Yep had the best luck with the FJ-80 landcruiser master.

? what booster do you have on that 40. and have you done a front disc brake conversion yet
 
previously had drum brakes...just swapped in a front axle that I bought that was converted to disc brakes...therefore need to get booster that will work...probably have to get an adapter..already have a new dual master cylinder...and will need a proportioning valve...R
 
Man-a-fre sells a nice kit for the booster and master, it is not cheap but well worth the money imop. it resolves all your issues it has the adaptor the booster the master (for disc/drum or disc/disc) and the proportioning valve.

MAF GM Booster Master Conversion Kit

cam
 
thanks...I hope to get something going soon..R
 
Sooo.. why is that ad worded as though it only works with a v8 conversion?

It was designed and marketed for the V8 conversions because of the power and potential speed the V8 puts out. This conversion also works extremely well with the straight six as well. both engines tuned properly put out about the same vacuum 20 LBS
 
I got my brackets and rotors from Poser here on Mud. Brackets came with all the hardware. He machined to hub out on the rotors too. I picked up loaded calipers from a local parts house. I made new steel brake lines for the rear axle when I did my truck. Good luck.

lingo
 
thanks lingo..I don't think poser is selling brackets or rotors at this time...R
 
I dunno. I got my set-up from Poser in the last six months. Worked out super-fine!
 
I got mine from Poser in the past 6 months as well. Not installed yet though. Contacted him by PM here.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom