Help Oil Dip Stick broke inside of the housing. (1 Viewer)

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Aug 16, 2019
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Hello, noobie here. Just bought my first land cruiser (LX470, but close enough). It has 210k miles but it was the best one I could afford. Anyways, just did my first oil change and filled it up with 6qts of oil. I then went to check on the dip stick and i realized that the dip stick is way too short, looks like it broke or someone cut it. I then went to check the records and it looks like the past owner took it to jiffy lube so i'm sure some 18 year old kid broke it.... any ideas on how to get the rest of the stick out? Should i replace the guild? Looks like the part number is 11452-50121. Do I have to drain the oil out (its brand new oil :confused:) before replacing the part? Any tip would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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Trace the tube down to where it connects to the pan, there should be a bolt holding it in, and an o ring
 
I just had my dip stick tube out yesterday to replace the o-ring. There is only one bolt holding it in position. To gain easy access to it reach in over the top of the driver tire and pop out the three push connectors that hold the upper skinny part of the splash guard over the top of the big opening for the upper a-arm. Fold back the flimsy guard and stick it behind the tire to keep it out of the way. Now, look in towards the front of the valve cover and just below it, you will see the bolt that holds the bracket that is welded onto the tube. Reach in with a 12mm socket wrench and undo it.
But, before you pull out the tube go down and blow off the bottom of the tube and engine block with compressed air to clean the area of dirt and crud. You can (barely) access that area by going in with your hand just behind the front axle. Not easy to see or access but it is possible to get your hand up there to guide the tube back into the hole later. Access would be easier if was on ramps but I did mine on the ground. You can also reach it from behind the motor mount but this seemed even more difficult so I recommend going behind the axle from the front of the truck.
Also, when you pull out the tube watch how it comes up out of there because you will have to feed it back in the same way. A few twists and turns are necessary. You can hang it in position with a string while you go down below to guide it into the block. Or have a friend hold onto it.
I would highly recommend replacing the o-ring since you have it out. Mine was hard as plastic and the tube was loose in the block. I was concerned of water intrusion during water crossings. Found out about it while replacing my valve cover seals.
And before feeding the tube back down into position cover the end with a small plastic bag with a twist tie holding it on. Use only one twist on the tie. Lower the tube down and then remove the tie and bag and pop it into the hole. Push it home from the top.
Have fun!
 
I just had my dip stick tube out yesterday to replace the o-ring. There is only one bolt holding it in position. To gain easy access to it reach in over the top of the driver tire and pop out the three push connectors that hold the upper skinny part of the splash guard over the top of the big opening for the upper a-arm. Fold back the flimsy guard and stick it behind the tire to keep it out of the way. Now, look in towards the front of the valve cover and just below it, you will see the bolt that holds the bracket that is welded onto the tube. Reach in with a 12mm socket wrench and undo it.
But, before you pull out the tube go down and blow off the bottom of the tube and engine block with compressed air to clean the area of dirt and crud. You can (barely) access that area by going in with your hand just behind the front axle. Not easy to see or access but it is possible to get your hand up there to guide the tube back into the hole later. Access would be easier if was on ramps but I did mine on the ground. You can also reach it from behind the motor mount but this seemed even more difficult so I recommend going behind the axle from the front of the truck.
Also, when you pull out the tube watch how it comes up out of there because you will have to feed it back in the same way. A few twists and turns are necessary. You can hang it in position with a string while you go down below to guide it into the block. Or have a friend hold onto it.
I would highly recommend replacing the o-ring since you have it out. Mine was hard as plastic and the tube was loose in the block. I was concerned of water intrusion during water crossings. Found out about it while replacing my valve cover seals.
And before feeding the tube back down into position cover the end with a small plastic bag with a twist tie holding it on. Use only one twist on the tie. Lower the tube down and then remove the tie and bag and pop it into the hole. Push it home from the top.
Have fun!

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Going to try this as soon as i get the parts. One more question, did you drain the oil pan before replacing the hose?
 
No need to drain oil. The tube goes in above the oil level.
Hopefully you can get your broken off piece out. If it falls into the pan, or has already, I would try a magnetic retriever tool thru the tube hole in the block. If that failed I would probably just leave it in there. It should just settle to the bottom of the pan and stay put.
Good luck.
 
No need to drain oil. The tube goes in above the oil level.
Hopefully you can get your broken off piece out. If it falls into the pan, or has already, I would try a magnetic retriever tool thru the tube hole in the block. If that failed I would probably just leave it in there. It should just settle to the bottom of the pan and stay put.
Good luck.
Is it magnetic, add a magnet to the bottom of the pan to help hold it at the bottom?
 
No need to drain oil. The tube goes in above the oil level.
Hopefully you can get your broken off piece out. If it falls into the pan, or has already, I would try a magnetic retriever tool thru the tube hole in the block. If that failed I would probably just leave it in there. It should just settle to the bottom of the pan and stay put.
Good luck.

Thanks for all your help bud. I'm buying the parts now... any idea on a part number for the o ring? I don't see it on the diagram.
 
PN is 96721-19010
About a doller from on line dealers but your screwed on shipping unless you have other stuff to order too.
I got mine on ebay for $5.51 and free shipping from Evans Toyota.
 

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