Cruising with no or little boost yes that's fine. Do not do any more WOT runs or high load till you have those AFR under control.
Help ASAP! - Safari Turbo Rebuild - Too Much Boost - Heading on camping trip!
- Thread starter yoda-g3
- Start date
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Cruising with no or little boost yes that's fine. Do not do any more WOT runs or high load till you have those AFR under control.
I can post the UniChip wiring and install docs here in a bit from home. It is usually attached to your ECU behind the glovebox. How well it is spliced into your wiring harness will be interesting.
- Thread starter
- #23
Thanks! Ya, that does have me a little concerned. It was done at a dealership..... which probably makes it worse.
Unichip
Here's the UniChip wiring diagram
Here's the UniChip wiring diagram
That should not be hard to bypass, just need to connect the two wires that are intercepted. Removing the Unichip looks like it would take about 20min.
- Thread starter
- #26
Nice. So if I'm looking at that correctly, just reconnect the lead on E5C7 and E4A17 and leave the rest alone? Sounds too good to be true.
Seems too simple. What are those exactly MAF & O2? I figured the Unichip would need to spoof more signals that that.
Now I just need to find a thread on ECM removal. I have a tight window tonight to pull this off.
Thanks!
Nice. So if I'm looking at that correctly, just reconnect the lead on E5C7 and E4A17 and leave the rest alone? Sounds too good to be true.
Seems too simple. What are those exactly MAF & O2? I figured the Unichip would need to spoof more signals that that.
Now I just need to find a thread on ECM removal. I have a tight window tonight to pull this off.
Thanks!
I cant see it in enough detail to tell. Those two look like the only ones that can change signals the others look to be things like power ground and TPS. if you want to play it safe take them all off.
Send me an email addy & I can send the high resolution version
- Thread starter
- #29
PM sent! Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #30
UPDATE:
Thanks everyone for all the help so far!
I yanked the unichip and she's running much richer now. I know it will take a bit to relearn to new maps, but right away at 1-3psi 75% throttle, it hovers between 12.5 - 13.5, but when its WOT and boost build to 5psi it dips down to 10.5 - 11.5, then briefly jumps back up to 14 right after a shift. (Keep in mind the WG is still disconnected so it build boost VERY slow. I'm sure tings will be different when I hook it back up tonight.)
I do have a rising rate FMU, so I'm sure that can be part of why it richens so abruptly once it hits a certain boost threshold. I'm toying with yanking it after everything is buttoned up, but it might be best to wait until a dyno day to do some before and after. I'm also planning on a Landtank MAF in the very near future.
Now the bad news..... Guess who's
's LX 450 hit 280 coming up a big hill last night, popped the PHH, then continued to drive 2.5 miles home with less than 2 gallons on coolant in the system??? I finally get one fixed, and now I have another one down. 
I just hope the head isn't warped....
Thanks everyone for all the help so far!
I yanked the unichip and she's running much richer now. I know it will take a bit to relearn to new maps, but right away at 1-3psi 75% throttle, it hovers between 12.5 - 13.5, but when its WOT and boost build to 5psi it dips down to 10.5 - 11.5, then briefly jumps back up to 14 right after a shift. (Keep in mind the WG is still disconnected so it build boost VERY slow. I'm sure tings will be different when I hook it back up tonight.)
I do have a rising rate FMU, so I'm sure that can be part of why it richens so abruptly once it hits a certain boost threshold. I'm toying with yanking it after everything is buttoned up, but it might be best to wait until a dyno day to do some before and after. I'm also planning on a Landtank MAF in the very near future.
Now the bad news..... Guess who's
's LX 450 hit 280 coming up a big hill last night, popped the PHH, then continued to drive 2.5 miles home with less than 2 gallons on coolant in the system??? I finally get one fixed, and now I have another one down. I just hope the head isn't warped....
UPDATE:
Thanks everyone for all the help so far!
I yanked the unichip and she's running much richer now. I know it will take a bit to relearn to new maps, but right away at 1-3psi 75% throttle, it hovers between 12.5 - 13.5, but when its WOT and boost build to 5psi it dips down to 10.5 - 11.5, then briefly jumps back up to 14 right after a shift. (Keep in mind the WG is still disconnected so it build boost VERY slow. I'm sure tings will be different when I hook it back up tonight.)
I do have a rising rate FMU, so I'm sure that can be part of why it richens so abruptly once it hits a certain boost threshold. I'm toying with yanking it after everything is buttoned up, but it might be best to wait until a dyno day to do some before and after. I'm also planning on a Landtank MAF in the very near future.
Those numbers are perfect, good safe AF (good job). When you reattach the WG set it up with no tension on the flapper (even slightly loose 1mm ish play) run the signal line right off the compressor housing and see what it does. Roll into boost slowly so you can back out if it gets to high. Sounds like you are getting is sorted!
on a side note this shows just how robust the 1fz is, I'm sure this truck has been running crazy lean as long as that stupid Unichip has been in there and to have not blow the engine is amazing!