Hellivue Aux Tank

[BigNick]

So, the question that I see is the instructions call for welding the bung but, ive seen guys just drill the hole, screw the 90 in a bit then jb weld it. The thought being, it just a vent, it doesn't need to be built for a moon landing.

Ill pop a hole in it, screw the fitting in and see how we end up. If it seems secure enough, Ill use the jb weld method..

 

[Rednexus]

You could also try brazing it with a MAP gas torch and some filler rods. I have not tried steel yet, but have done some brazing repairs with aluminum and have been quite impressed with how easy it is and how well it works. One was a crack in the aluminum hydraulic fluid filter housing for my tractor, which has not leaked a bit despite quite a bit of heavy use.

TBH I've never had good luck with JB Weld.

 

[BigNick]

TBH I've never had good luck with JB Weld.

You are correct sir, I've never had any luck with it.

 

[BigNick]

Ok, I looked into the Map gas setup. It looks like it'll work if my first attempt fails,, which is the Permatex fuel tank putty. Sanded and cleaned the area, mix the stuff and push it in there. The fitting itself is in firmly and secure. The only thing I dont like is the nipple of the fitting makes its presence known in the fill pipe. If I have fuel fill issues, Ill know where it is. That would cause me to pull it back out and braze the bung. I put the putty on there let it cure a couple hours and then paint.
So, hopefully I can get to the top half of the stick in tomorrow. Move onto electrical.

This area is destined for a thorough cleaning prior to reassemble, I cant stand a load of dirt near the fuel fill.

 

[BigNick]

Bung hole.. Cured, sanded, painted. Ready to go in, just need to clean the area first then I'll work on getting it up in there and hooked up. After this, I' m down to mounting the pump, mount the 7 pin trailer plug. And my personal favorite,,, electrical.

 

[BigNick]

Lazy Today, Just the fill pipe and the Hellivue stainless T fitting. Quite a jumble. One more transfer hose to put in here. The line itself is fuel rated hose, turned out to be 9.5". The oem fill had 4" cut out of it and deburred. I bought it at a hose specialty shop, 2 napa s and one autozone didn't have it. Lots of stainless clamps, they're Ideals though, a quality clamp. Those all came with the kit.

So, 2 lines going up, tank vent to the brass 90, and diff breather mod hose. Try to get pump mounted and plumbed tomorrow, half arse cleaning job, but better then it was. I'll try to get the liner in there tomorrow too.
,

 

[BigNick]

Almost forgot. Merch..

 

[BigNick]

Pump in, not wired yet. 7 pin trailer plug in but its in a spot outside the rail. Not really happy with it there. Wheel well liner in.

For my next trick. Hellivue Designs includes a minature qty ind/pwr switch. I dont want to pop another hole in the dash for it. I have previously installed a power tray and switch pros control. So guess what? Im going to power this pump from the pwr tray switch pro set up. There's 3 empty terminals and I just need one. The question is being able to see quantity and tbh, Im kind of questioning why I even need to see qty. It'd be nice to have but, who cares, I know I have 18 gallons in there. I may need all or part. I know the fuel flow rate of the pump .66 gallon per minute. I can calculate how many minutes and gallons transferred from that figure. For example, .66 x 8 min = 5.28 gallons. I can transfer almost the entire tank in 24 minutes Still thinking on that one. It'll come to me.

 

[Jstawgn]

You do need the level indicator. The tanks does not have flap valve and everytime you brake the fuel slosh from the aux tank to the main tank. At lest my first Gen does not have it. I tried to find one from a boat tank but it does not work properly.

When your main tank is empty the aux tank probably only have 7-10 gallon left. It's not a big deal to drill a small hole on the dash plastic.

 

[BigNick]

You do need the level indicator. The tanks does not have flap valve and everytime you brake the fuel slosh from the aux tank to the main tank. At lest my first Gen does not have it. I tried to find one from a boat tank but it does not work properly.

When your main tank is empty the aux tank probably only have 7-10 gallon left. It's not a big deal to drill a small hole on the dash plastic.

Got it yea, I get that. I have a dedicated hole on the firewall for new wires going in and out. The shifter surround is after market 3d printed and has room for it. What I have thought about doing is control the pump with the switchpro and have an indicator in the shifter surround. The sender is a standard 90 ohm so I THINK any number of fuel level guages will work.

I see unused buttons ..

Edit: btw.. This is the first I heard of loosing fuel into the main due to sloshing.. i wonder if that's why they went to a different design on the tank ?

 

[BigNick]

West Marine has one.. Before I start modifying the modification, I check with Hellivue

1" Nylon In-Line Check Valve | West Marine

Check out our 1" Nylon In-Line Check Valve and more from West Marine!

www.westmarine.com

 

[Jstawgn]

West Marine has one.. Before I start modifying the modification, I check with Hellivue

1" Nylon In-Line Check Valve | West Marine

Check out our 1" Nylon In-Line Check Valve and more from West Marine!

www.westmarine.com

There is no room to fit in between the tee and the tank. The purpose is to prevent the tank from dumping the fuel in case of roll over. I tried using a small insert like LRA tank and it end up not filling the aux tank. The spring must be too strong for this application.

The current design with the outlet on the bottom have other risk too. No OEM tank have outlet on the bottom due to risk once the hose is ripped all the fuel going to leak out.

I run my wiring all inside the cabin. Enter thru the grommet above the old air compressor in the back left corner and tap to fuse box inside cabin. Tuck the wires in the quarter panel wiring tunnel next to door opening. Very easy to do.

 

[BigNick]

I

There is no room to fit in between the tee and the tank. The purpose is to prevent the tank from dumping the fuel in case of roll over. I tried using a small insert like LRA tank and it end up not filling the aux tank. The spring must be too strong for this application.

The current design with the outlet on the bottom have other risk too. No OEM tank have outlet on the bottom due to risk once the hose is ripped all the fuel going to leak out.

I run my wiring all inside the cabin. Enter thru the grommet above the old air compressor in the back left corner and tap to fuse box inside cabin. Tuck the wires in the quarter panel wiring tunnel next to door opening. Very easy to do.

I have a 9.5" fast fill line there, the 2 nipples take up probably 4" so that leaves me about 5" to get the thing in if I need it. Im a bit leery of what your telling me and I DO appreciate it, especially from you, a veteran of this mod. The fast fill at the top of the tank in the front upper corner and the "T" is even higher than that. This means the fuel must travel uphill quite a bit to get there. Now, if Im coming down some steep ledge on the trail, I suppose it would be possible there

 

[BigNick]

EDIT:
Speaking to the Hellivue guy via email, the unintended movement of fuel is a natural occurance and to be expected, the control box is required as it has the auto shut off feature for the pump so it doesnt cook itself. Do I have to run with the thing on all the time even going to the mall, or, can I run with it off and when I want to look at it, power it up?

 

[Jstawgn]

EDIT:
Speaking to the Hellivue guy via email, the unintended movement of fuel is a natural occurance and to be expected, the control box is required as it has the auto shut off feature for the pump so it doesnt cook itself. Do I have to run with the thing on all the time even going to the mall, or, can I run with it off and when I want to look at it, power it up?

You need to power it up with circuit that is active only when ignition is on. I think reused my TEMS circuit for this.

The sloshing and transfer is normal to this design. It just become a big issue when you get into rollover or accident that rip the fill pipe. Then it become open and would dump the fuel increasing the risk of fire. Not something OEM manufacturer can take the risk off. Small companies and you probably just claim bankruptcy.

 

[BigNick]

You need to power it up with circuit that is active only when ignition is on. I think reused my TEMS circuit for this.

The sloshing and transfer is normal to this design. It just become a big issue when you get into rollover or accident that rip the fill pipe. Then it become open and would dump the fuel increasing the risk of fire. Not something OEM manufacturer can take the risk off. Small companies and you probably just claim bankruptcy.

LOL,,, good one... Im taking it all back off and putting it up for sale.

 

[BigNick]

Update:
I sent an email to Peel Electronics, thats the folks that manufacture the CP-440, which is the controller, tiny control head and associated harnes. See Q & A below. My question was, in short, if I can wire the entire system to a switched power source and run with the system powered down. My set up would be, system power from the power tray vs the cigarette lighter harness and I would control On/Off with the SwitchPro. Basically power to the system would be controlled by me. My interest in this subject is that Im not a fan of running all the time with the thing powered up. I believe I should have the ability to power the thing up when I want too and need too.

This was the question and answer:
Q:
I want to hook up the system to a switched power supply vs hot with key on. I would need to activate the power source for the controller to have any power. This includes the pump LED, Controller, pump, and sender. Is it problematic to do this? This system would only have power when I activate the main switch for system power.

A:
Thanks for the email, This shouldn't be an issue for our components, with powering up from another switching source, just make sure there is enough current supply from your pickup to supply all the components. i.e.aux fuel pump.

I will do the hook up somewhat as I planned , with the addition of the Peel CP440 control and the indicator/switch. My purpose was to avoid bringing new wires into the cabin and avoid anymore holes in the dash. The pump and the system need the controller basically to control operation of the pump which extends its life. Additionally it allows me to see qty in the aux tank which might be useful. I will develop and plan for the wiring and hook up. Life is happening now so this project goes on hold for a bit.

 

[Rednexus]

You could also have the system powered via an ignition-on relay, which is how I have some of my aux wiring set up. I think I tied into the cigarette lighter circuit to trigger the relay, since the cigarette lighter is only hot when the ignition is on. The relay power itself comes from a fuse tap into the 20 amp power seat circuit form the interior fusebox (as it's always hot). The actual relay is a basic 5-pin that's tucked under the dash.

 

[Jstawgn]

You are way over thinking this.
The circuit takes very low amp. There are lots of circuit that is only on when igniton is on (second key position). Use a fuse tap to one of those circuit and be done. Don't need relay. The electronic takes very low amp. The pump is 6 amp max. I think I only measure 2-3 amp when running.

 

[BigNick]

Always been one of my character defects. Overthinking, mountain out of a mole hill, pole vault to jump over a pea. A result of 40 years fixing airplanes. I will throttle down based on your suggestions and go easier. Thanks..