h55f stuck in gear (1 Viewer)

[roscoFJ73]

I think it mentions something in the FSM about not tilting the transmission,something you never notice until you need to notice it

 

[Morse_FJ40]

I am fighting this right now, as my machinist father rebuilt my split case onto my h55f with the trans tipped on it to ease installing the case.

Crossing my fingers now.

I want to drive my 40 so bad!!

 

[Morse_FJ40]

And here are some pics to visualize what is going on inside the case cover when the shifter has locked in place because the tranny was set on it's nose. Gravity drops the reverse idler gear, which causes the reverse shift fork to jump in reverse... locking the shifting mechanism. The reverse shift fork can also be moved by hand if the case cover is off. Just push it all the way in until it snaps in place.

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Output Shaft!!!!

The pics were a great help!!! Got the trans out of lockup mode!!

The power of mud!!!

 

[cruiserland]

i❤mud....

 

[cruiserland]

[QUOTE="crushers, post: 9141584, member: long 5 mins though.
[/QUOTE]

def long five minutes...

 

[Will Van]

Even when the reverse has slipped I can get it with a screw driver through the shifter housing.

Through the top? Basically just remove the shifter cane and manipulate the shift forks through the top of the housing?

To "fix" this problem you pull the reverse gear light sender and put a screw driver between the shifter and the front part of the hole. gently pry back and the reverse fork will now pop back into place freeing up the tranny, sometimes you need to gently rotate the input shaft back and forth.

Sorry, I’m having trouble visualizing this. You are placing the screw driver down into the reverse gear hole to manipulate the reverse shift fork?

I’m struggling with this exact problem now.

 

[Will Van]

Update: I got reverse fork out of gear! Huge thanks to @crushers, @Output Shaft, and the Mud community for the help!

FWIW, I was able to manipulate the reverse fork back into neutral through the shifter hole. Just remove the shift cane (but no need to pull the reverse switch or top cover).

I used two pry-bars (18" and 11") with the tips covered in electrical tape so as not to mar any finishes.

Place the 18" pry-bar down the shifter throat of the top cover and on the shift rail here.

The tip of the pry-bar should be gently resting on the rail, but you are applying pressure to the shoulder of the cast steel reverse fork.
(Obviously this is the bottom of the shift rail. Pry-bar would be on opposite side, on the top).

Then place the 11" pry-bar with the tip resting on the left dowel-pin on the throat of the shift hole. The 11" pry-bar gives you something to lever against instead of damaging the seal in the throat of the top cover.

Gently press the handle of the vertical 18" pry-bar forward toward the front of the truck/trans while holding the 11" pry-bar in place. This levers the tip of the 18" pry-bar (and reverse shift fork) toward the rear of the truck, back into the neutral position.

It helps to have the t-case in neutral and the clutch depressed. As mentioned earlier, you may have to rotate trans input/output back and forth (but I didn't). It took very little leverage to overcome the detent ball and move the reverse shift fork back to neutral.

All in all, took about 5 minutes of work. Hope this helps!