H55 stuck to engine, Please help!

[the donkey]

I've got an 88 HJ61 and currently trying to pull my tranny/t-case combo so that I can change my clutch and rebuild my t case.

The bellhousing seems to be stuck on the side opposite to the starter and slave cylinder. I can get it to separate from the engine about 6mm on the starter/slave cylinder side of the bellhousing, but it wont budge at all on the other side. Any Ideas???

So far, I've removed;
-both drive shafts
-transmission support
-the starter
-the slave cylinder
-4wd shifter actuator
-tranny shift lever
-speedo cable
-some weird sensor thing that sticks in the side of the bellhousing with a 24mm nut
-ALL of the bellhousing bolts.
-I also have an additional floor jack supporting the engine

I considered pulling the tcase off first, then the tranny, but Ive read serveral posts on this form recommending against that and that its easier to drop the tranny/tcase together.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[Nz Nath]

Maybe I'm missing something, but if you want to remove the gearbox you'd leave the bell housing in place, and just remove the 4(?) bolts holding the box to the bell housing?

The transfer doesn't come off the gearbox as a seperate unit, you basically totally disassemble it. People recommend removing the gearbox with the transfer intact so you're not working under the truck. I did my transfer insitu, but I probably have more room than most as my 13bt/h55f are swapped into a landrover and the transmission tunnel is totally removable. I was able to remove the h55f with only a basic trolley jack and a few straps. I put it back the same way and assembled the transfer insitu rather than get hold of a proper transmission jack or an engine hoist.

 

[the donkey]

Maybe I'm missing something, but if you want to remove the gearbox you'd leave the bell housing in place, and just remove the 4(?) bolts holding the box to the bell housing?

The transfer doesn't come off the gearbox as a seperate unit, you basically totally disassemble it. People recommend removing the gearbox with the transfer intact so you're not working under the truck. I did my transfer insitu, but I probably have more room than most as my 13bt/h55f are swapped into a landrover and the transmission tunnel is totally removable. I was able to remove the h55f with only a basic trolley jack and a few straps. I put it back the same way and assembled the transfer insitu rather than get hold of a proper transmission jack or an engine hoist.

Nope, your not missing anything. and several other members told me the same thing; that the tranny must be pulled from the bellhousing first

However, another member recomended not to do that because it supposidly raises the risk of cracking the bellhousing. And I dont want to go throught the headache of getting a jdm spec bellhousing.

On second thought, I guess thats what I get for buying a JDM crusier in the US

 

[Nz Nath]

Trying to pry a stuck bellhousing off the block with 80kg or more of gearbox/transfer canterlevering so far off the back sounds like a greater risk of cracking it

 

[Willis]

It really sounds like you're just missed a bolt. Take the entire bellhousing/h55/transfercase combo out at once, that's usually easiest but you could separate the H55 from the bell housing via the 4 17mm bolts. I usually run into shift tunnel clearance issues doing it that way.


There should be 8 larger bolts total, mostly 17mm and 14mm on the bottom. Then there is one sneaky 12mm (right being the exhaust) and small, usually coated in soot.
Plus the nut and a bolt on the starter of course.

SOLD - 12HT bellhousing

12HT bellhousing that was attached to an H55 I bought. Includes clutch fork and sensor as shown in the photos. $200 plus shipping.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[the donkey]

Good News: Tranny is off. Was paying by the day for the rental trans jack, so I just pulled it off the bellhousing.

Bad News: still have a stuck bellhousing. Although now that the tranny is off, its much easier to see and access, But I cant for the life of me find any hidden bolts. Ive tried prying, but i'm a bit hesitant because its aluminum.

Next chance I get to work on it, ill take some pics and maybe someone can point out something obvious and make me look like an idiot.

 

[Willis]

There is no way the engine is stuck to the bell housing because there is a thin metal plate that protects the engine from seizing to the bell housing. There has to be another bolt. Otherwise, I guess one of the dowel pins could be stuck.

You found that little 12mm?

This one above the marked 17mm

 

[duncanrm]

Did you remove the bolts that go from the front of the engine back into the bell housing? There are two each side of the engine

 

[the donkey]

. There has to be another bolt.

- I know, right?

My motor is defiantly not as clean as yours but here s some pics; maybe someone can point out something obvious and make me look lome an idiot.

The 4 lower bolt that connect to the bellhousing to the two little engine bracket things are still loosely threaded in. They armt holding anything, I promose. Just keeping track of my bolts.

 

[the donkey]

As seen below, the starter side (right) well separate quite a bit, but the other side wont budge.

I will gladly eat crow at the point. Once my bellhousing is off, that is.

 

[drenmaster]

I think a dowel pin is siezed up.. maybe spray some penetrating oil and let it soak in. Then gently use a pry bar on it. You could also tap around with mallet and see if it will break free at all.

 

[JohnB]

Just went through this with a clutch replacement on a Volvo, I’m guessing you might have a stuck guide/dowel pin holding it on that side. I sprayed it with break free and used a wood block and a hammer cautiously to free it

 

[the donkey]

Its off!!! I did exactly what was describd above. Thanks everyone for the replies!

Does anyone know the step size for a 12ht flywheel???