GX Passenger rear interior panel, what’s behind it? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Qball
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- Thread starter
- #2
Either side, I don’t have ML but I do have a 18 premium. Just seems to be such a huge amount of space! I want to see if I can setup my auxiliary battery system in there.
r2m
Richard
I think the right rear may be the 110 VAC inverter. The left side: sub woofer and jack. I put a power panel (12 VDC socket, two high speed USB ports, voltage meter and on/off switch) and behind that I have my first aid kits.
On mine the right (passenger) side has rear AC system. Not much room in there due to hoses and stuff, it takes up most of the space. Drivers side is relatively empty and has quitre a bit of room for a small battery and/or inverter. You can pop out the cup holders pretty easily and reach inside, that's how I was able to access the are to run wires without removing the panel. I thought about removing it entirely and making a new flat panel to reclaim that space.
- Thread starter
- #5
If you ever get around to mounting your aux battery somewhere, you'll have to share with us.
I have an aux battery setup with DC-DC charger setup in a pelican case. I'm looking to move all the components into the GX but the biggest draw is where to put the aux battery. I currently have a 125ah battery but willing to move down in size to fit in the GX.
- Thread starter
- #7
Yup that’s similar to what I want to do, probably Ctek again but this time I’m willing to go lithium due to space constraints.
I'm stuck for a while with my ctek dcdc lead-only. I'd love to go lithium but willing to wait for it to mature a bit for prices to come down + a new dcdc charger that will support that profile.
- Thread starter
- #9
As far as lithium maturity goes I think we have reach that critics point, they are very reliable and safe now and days with built in BMS. However still not cheap but they are dropping considerably. Given the pace of my work they will be done a dozen by the time I finally figure something out.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thank you!!! Sadly passenger side is out, looks like I need to cruise CL for more pictures!!!!
I was also thinking of putting a aux battery in there but the way Its shaped would make it difficult. There’s a lot of volume in the drivers side panel, but it’s so oddly shaped that fitting something the size of a car battery would need a lot of modifications. It’s be great for soft items like clothes or sleeping bags or even a water bladder that could conform to the interior.
r2m
Richard
I was just thinking that if you do opt for adding a second battery in the rear, be prepared to spend over $100.00 for heavy gauge (AWG) wire! This is what I used for my power panel and 3,000 Watt pure sine inverter that I have in the back of my rig:
Amazon product ASIN B01JMNJAP6
And don't forget about routing it! That large of gauge is not fun to snake through a vehicle. I ran mine down under the rear seat. Under the rear seats is a port through the body with a rubber plug. I ran the wire through the port and then tucked it up along my rock slider to avoid ever pinching it when off roading. I have photos of how I did it in my build thread: Builds - R2M 2013 GX 460 Expo
Amazon product ASIN B01JMNJAP6
And don't forget about routing it! That large of gauge is not fun to snake through a vehicle. I ran mine down under the rear seat. Under the rear seats is a port through the body with a rubber plug. I ran the wire through the port and then tucked it up along my rock slider to avoid ever pinching it when off roading. I have photos of how I did it in my build thread: Builds - R2M 2013 GX 460 Expo
I don’t think you need that large of a wire if you weren’t running that large inverter. It would be more efficient to locate the inverter closer to the battery and use a 120v extension.
The battery in the rear of my GX is solely dedicated for my fridge. I was also wondering about the initial current rush and cable sizing so I did some testing before installing it with some jumper cables and a meter. Surprisingly I have never seen it pull more than 13 amps during use, and usually only for a short period of time. That’s with the fridge on and battery completely discharged. The current drops fairly quickly as the voltage rises, so it only sees that load for a short time. Without the fridge it’ll never get above 9 amp draw, I don’t think the voltage difference is ever large enough to overcome the internal resistance of the battery. With a different type of battery it’ll most likely change, I’m using a regular car battery.
It’s possible there may be a transient spike during the initial startup that I can’t measure, but I have the line fused at 30A on both ends have never blown a fuse.
The battery in the rear of my GX is solely dedicated for my fridge. I was also wondering about the initial current rush and cable sizing so I did some testing before installing it with some jumper cables and a meter. Surprisingly I have never seen it pull more than 13 amps during use, and usually only for a short period of time. That’s with the fridge on and battery completely discharged. The current drops fairly quickly as the voltage rises, so it only sees that load for a short time. Without the fridge it’ll never get above 9 amp draw, I don’t think the voltage difference is ever large enough to overcome the internal resistance of the battery. With a different type of battery it’ll most likely change, I’m using a regular car battery.
It’s possible there may be a transient spike during the initial startup that I can’t measure, but I have the line fused at 30A on both ends have never blown a fuse.
r2m
Richard
So in short: No room/extra space??
