GRRRRR!! Truck running like poop!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter M-80
- Start date
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Any chance you've been running an oiled air filter like the K&N.
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Read this thread.
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor has a heater wire that doesn't work well when oil gets on it.
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The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor has a heater wire that doesn't work well when oil gets on it.
Scamper said:
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Welcome
So, to clarify, it will stumble and bog if the truck is in REVERSE and you hold with the brakes and apply gas? This is absolutely critical information and your above comment does not cover it directly.
I'd have someone you trust at the wheel and apply the brakes and gas so its in the 'stumble/rough' mode while you lean in and wiggle the large bundle of wires that are at the right edge of the rear of the valve cover. Do the same with the wire that connects to the AFM on the air cleaner end of the large rubber tube you just replaced. Recheck that connector by pulling it apart (gently pry off that thin wire retainer) and clean it. If the engine's been wet recently, this connector is your #1 suspect. If you have any dielectric grease around, this is a great place for a smear to prevent future issues.
After these two suspects, a question. Did you closely examine the plugs you originally took out? I ask this because if 1 or two were different that would be good to know as well as what cylinder.
Also, what did you mean about replacing the air intake "hoses"? I just want to be sure we're on the same page here as there's only 1 large diameter air intake hose.
And, pull the EFI fuse (in box behind battery) to look at the connectors for any hint of corrosion or loose connection feel.
DougM
So, to clarify, it will stumble and bog if the truck is in REVERSE and you hold with the brakes and apply gas? This is absolutely critical information and your above comment does not cover it directly.
I'd have someone you trust at the wheel and apply the brakes and gas so its in the 'stumble/rough' mode while you lean in and wiggle the large bundle of wires that are at the right edge of the rear of the valve cover. Do the same with the wire that connects to the AFM on the air cleaner end of the large rubber tube you just replaced. Recheck that connector by pulling it apart (gently pry off that thin wire retainer) and clean it. If the engine's been wet recently, this connector is your #1 suspect. If you have any dielectric grease around, this is a great place for a smear to prevent future issues.
After these two suspects, a question. Did you closely examine the plugs you originally took out? I ask this because if 1 or two were different that would be good to know as well as what cylinder.
Also, what did you mean about replacing the air intake "hoses"? I just want to be sure we're on the same page here as there's only 1 large diameter air intake hose.
And, pull the EFI fuse (in box behind battery) to look at the connectors for any hint of corrosion or loose connection feel.
DougM
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks. I will clean this as soon as I get off from work. I really do appreciate all you help on this.
Now another question. Will the dealership get a different code if they pull it with their $4000 reader than I get with my trusty paper clip? I really don't want to waste the money on that. I would rather feed Dan's dogs.
Marde
Now another question. Will the dealership get a different code if they pull it with their $4000 reader than I get with my trusty paper clip? I really don't want to waste the money on that. I would rather feed Dan's dogs.
Marde
K&N probably won't make any difference to the vane style AFM. I suspect a wiring issue related to the AFM. Did you check the harness?
Regarding post #26, the paper clip is all you need. Well, that and the FSM.
Regarding post #26, the paper clip is all you need. Well, that and the FSM.
The dealer will get the same code that you see with the paper clip. However, their tester allows them to do more diagnostics that utilize their special equipment. If you'll look at your FSM, you will see 2 paths in the MIL debugging section. One with a Toyota Tester and one without.
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Not sure who you were replying to when saying you'll "clean this" but I hope it wasn't Beo. Attempting to clean that air flow wire/sensor is not a good idea - they're extremely delicate - beyond delicate.
DougM
PS - still lots and lots of unanswered questions here. Use an oiled filter, etc??... Lots of people thinking about this at the moment but take my advice in that if the questionee leaves things like this unanswered or un addressed a lot of people get disinterested in hurry and move on to a problem they can sink their teeth into (as in a problem that the can get info on..).
DougM
PS - still lots and lots of unanswered questions here. Use an oiled filter, etc??... Lots of people thinking about this at the moment but take my advice in that if the questionee leaves things like this unanswered or un addressed a lot of people get disinterested in hurry and move on to a problem they can sink their teeth into (as in a problem that the can get info on..).
So, have we fixed the problem yet?
- Thread starter
- #31
IdahoDoug said:
It will stumble and bog in reverse and drive. Runs smooth as silk in neutral or park. I replaced the air intake hose, and the hoses on the throttle body (one for the pcv valve and the one to the left of it).
All the the plugs looked the same--sooty black. Fresh new OEM plugs have been installed.
I will check on the other things as soon as I get home from work.
I never said the truck ran bad in reverse. I said when I put it in gear in starts bogging down and spitting and sputtering. I know these are not technically correct, but I didn't know the correct vocabulary at the time. I have tried to put as much information in as possible. I am learning from the Cruiser Gods as I go. I really do appreciate everyone's help on this problem
Doug,
Can she carefully squirt carb cleaner in the MAF and try to get any oil off the sensor?
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Can she carefully squirt carb cleaner in the MAF and try to get any oil off the sensor?
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- Thread starter
- #33
IdahoDoug said:
I am trying to answer these a quickly as I can. I think you were posting when my answer about the K & N posted up. I removed the K & N in September.
Beo posted a link about oil on the air flow wire/sensor, and in that link it said you spray carb cleaner on it and let it dry to clean the oil off. Are you saying this is not a good idea?
Please don't give up on me yet.
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Folks, it's a 94, so there is no hot wire anemometer. It's a vane style meter.
OK, then. Do you have a recommendation on what the problem is and how she can fix it?
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- Thread starter
- #37
concretejungle said:
There are lots of things to try here. Unfortunately it is time to feed the kids and get them to bed so the 80 is on the back burner for now. We will start again in the morning. Stay tuned.
Once again, thanks for all the great ideas. Hopefully I can post up tomorrow saying that it is fixed. Is it too late to pray to the Cruiser God Cruiser Dan?
cruiserman said:
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- Thread starter
- #40
Okay, we are back. Is it possible that the MAF is bad? Cruiserman, if I remember correctly, you had a problem with yours. Did you end up purchasing a new one? The vane looks to be closing off when it should be opening, such when it is put under a load. This doesn't sound like normal operation to me.
:whoops:
:whoops:
