Going to install ARB front diff.

[3rd Cruiser]

Ok. Ok. I've read enough horror stories and seen enough gory broken gear pictures. I'm going to pony up the dollars for a ARB front locker.

After searching the forum and considering futrure upgrades, (possible 2nd battery install) I'm going with the smaller of the two compressors. I already have a portable quick air compressor and it appears there are more mounting location options with the smaller unit.

A couple of questions.

Should I get the heavy duty air line kit ARB offers? Has air line breakage been a concern?

What is a reasonalble labor charge for the install?
(I won't be doing this one myself)

Any recommended installers in the So Cal area? I'm near Pomona.

And finally, for those of you who have done this, any pre-install advice or install concerns I should be aware of ?

Thanks in advance for any comments or advice.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

You gonna swap you 100 locker switch for an 80 switch that has RR FR?

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

preload on carrier

Make sure you have plenty of preload on your carrier.

 

[Biff]

I had mine installed at 4x4 doctor in Burbank, really cheap and good clean install.

 

[hoser]

The ARB mini compressor fits nicely between the air filter box and the headlight. The mini has an adjustable angle mount.

ARB offers at least three different types of air line:
1) blue nylon ($12/20 feet for replacement line)
2) Heavy Duty Line that replaces just the small section between frame and diff. $50/ea. This doesn't sound that attractive since it adds two more connections to each line but I dunno.
3) Steel Braided line 7ft ($70), 13ft ($90), 17ft ($109).

 

[spressomon]

For $50 I got a super HD ss braided line from our local hydraulic hose/fitting shop. IMO If you like working on airlines then install the blue lines...they are a joke at best for an on-trail rig. Can't comment on the ARB HD lines...but again I feel like I have a set-up that won't easily fail.

Pay special attention to where you want the air fitting located on the diff before you remove the diff from the front end. Route the line to prevent weeds, etc. from contact. For some reason the guy that installed mine did not follow the ARB instructions which show the air fitting residing just to the rear of the front axle housing. Instead he installed mine on the top side which is very protected from the elements; although a little more challenging to access if you need to on the trail....all the more reason if you locate the air fitting like mine you get a solid SS line with quality fittings...

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

For $50 I got a super HD ss braided line from our local hydraulic hose/fitting shop. IMO If you like working on airlines then install the blue lines...they are a joke at best for an on-trail rig. Can't comment on the ARB HD lines...but again I feel like I have a set-up that won't easily fail.

Pay special attention to where you want the air fitting located on the diff before you remove the diff from the front end. Route the line to prevent weeds, etc. from contact. For some reason the guy that installed mine did not follow the ARB instructions which show the air fitting residing just to the rear of the front axle housing. Instead he installed mine on the top side which is very protected from the elements; although a little more challenging to access if you need to on the trail....all the more reason if you locate the air fitting like mine you get a solid SS line with quality fittings...

WOW!

 

[3rd Cruiser]

Thanks everyone for the imput.

You gonna swap you 100 locker switch for an 80 switch that has RR FR?

John, an interesting idea. I had just planned on installing the ARB switches next to my oem locker switch. Do you still use the ARB compressor switch too, along with the 80 series switch? My plan uses three switches. Sounds like your idea uses only two.

I had mine installed at 4x4 doctor in Burbank, really cheap and good clean install.

Biff, define cheap. How much did they charge for the install if you don't mind saying. I will be giving them a call, also.

Make sure you have plenty of preload on your carrier.

MMMMMM, preload. Is this something a good installer should know about? I'm a complete novice when it comes to differential internals and stuff. Any advice when talking to the yet to be named installer?

 

[3rd Cruiser]

For $50 I got a super HD ss braided line from our local hydraulic hose/fitting shop. IMO If you like working on airlines then install the blue lines...they are a joke at best for an on-trail rig. Can't comment on the ARB HD lines...but again I feel like I have a set-up that won't easily fail.

Pay special attention to where you want the air fitting located on the diff before you remove the diff from the front end. Route the line to prevent weeds, etc. from contact. For some reason the guy that installed mine did not follow the ARB instructions which show the air fitting residing just to the rear of the front axle housing. Instead he installed mine on the top side which is very protected from the elements; although a little more challenging to access if you need to on the trail....all the more reason if you locate the air fitting like mine you get a solid SS line with quality fittings...

Hoser and Spressomon,

Thanks for the info on the air lines and fittings. I like the idea of the SS fittings and braided hose. Am I right in assuming you pre-measured for the hose and had the hose shop make it up with the ss fittings attached?

Thanks again guys for the info.

 

[100 TD]

Have a look at Hosers photos in this thread, post No. 2, it shows the original 80/100 rotary locker switch (Rear locker only and also one with front and rear) in the correct spot on the dash. You could buy a sub fuel switch as well and put a compressor sticker over the top if you want to drop an original switch into one of the other spare switch holes.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1341190

Do you still use the ARB compressor switch too, along with the 80 series switch? My plan uses three switches. Sounds like your idea uses only two.

 

[Augie]

IFS housing are prett well protected and they do not move much. Maybe vibrate a little bit at most. IMHO blue lines are good enough for IFS.

SFA install are completly different situation and I would upgrade to steel braided lines.

 

[spressomon]

Hoser and Spressomon,

Thanks for the info on the air lines and fittings. I like the idea of the SS fittings and braided hose. Am I right in assuming you pre-measured for the hose and had the hose shop make it up with the ss fittings attached?

Thanks again guys for the info.

I think mine ended up being 4' long (mini ARB compressor mounted between the air filter box and the PS front headlamp). I had to install a 45 degree fitting at the diff side to get proper clearance and angle up to the compressor. Take all fittings to your hydraulic fitting/hose shop so they can get the threads matched properly.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

John, an interesting idea. I had just planned on installing the ARB switches next to my oem locker switch. Do you still use the ARB compressor switch too, along with the 80 series switch? My plan uses three switches. Sounds like your idea uses only two.

I'm not sure how the guys install this. Myself....I have them mounted to the left. If I already had an OEM locker switch I might have used the 80 switch.

 

[3rd Cruiser]

Thanks John and 100 TD for the switch info. I like the idea of replacing my rear diff switch with the 80 series switch with both front and rear options.

Like you John, I'm not sure how to set it all up, but in theory it should work like this. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Replace my rear switch with 80 switch. Should be able to control both ARB front and OEM rear locker with this one switch. In addition I will need to install ARB or some type of OEM switch to turn the compressor off and on.

 

[3rd Cruiser]

Ok, a cost update on the front ARB install.

Am I being cheap, or is this the going rate. So far the quotes for just the labor to install the diff and compressor run from $800 to $1000. Comments?

Parts prices are pretty uniform $760 to 795 for the locker. and yes I'm checking with mud supporters about parts.

 

[spressomon]

Ok, a cost update on the front ARB install.

Am I being cheap, or is this the going rate. So far the quotes for just the labor to install the diff and compressor run from $800 to $1000. Comments?

Parts prices are pretty uniform $760 to 795 for the locker. and yes I'm checking with mud supporters about parts.

That's the going rate for the work you describe here in the Reno area (assuming this is the total labor amount if you take them your rig). Check your CV joints/axles because if they need to be replaced/rebuilt this would be the time to do it since they will be out anyway (along with rotors, etc.). It is a fair amount of time to completely tear the front end apart to get the diff out, install the locker and then reassemble everything. If you are going to do all the disassembly/reassembly (in other words you will do everything except installing the ARB locker) then $100 to $200 just to install the ARB locker into the diff is a typical labor spread.

 

[100 TD]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Replace my rear switch with 80 switch. Should be able to control both ARB front and OEM rear locker with this one switch. In addition I will need to install ARB or some type of OEM switch to turn the compressor off and on.

Here is an option for you

Install OEM RR-FR Diff lock switch to replac your RR switch
Do not install a compressor switch.

As you are only going to install the mini compressor which is designed to run the locker only, I would forget about a seperate switch for the compressor and just replace the OEM RR locker switch with an OEM RR-FR locker switch (my OZ part number 84725-60020 This is a 100 switch in OZ, but the same as the 80's AFAIK)

Wire the compressor to come on from the RR rear lock position, so that when you turn to select RR rear lock, it also starts your compressor, then when you turn to activate the FR front lock, the compressor will already be on.

Alternately, you could run the compresor from the FR front lock switch position, so when you turn it to select front, it starts the compressor and activates at the same time. There would be a small delay, as the compressor is only pumping to the front diff, a short distance with small hose, EDIT : "and a small reservoir/manifold", and does not have to pump up a large reservoir tank like on the bigger ARB compressor. In reality, with this mini compressor, the compressor may turn on to activate either front or rear diff anyway as it only has a small reservoir. Personally I would wire it to the RR rear lock position.
If your dash has a position for a front lock lamp this could be wired directly off the FR front lock switch position or another way with a pressure switch as mentioned in this thread. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=116043
The bulb for the dash should be the same but maybe not, mine was 90010-06032

 

[3rd Cruiser]

Spressomon,

Thanks for the confirmation on the labor cost. Hoped it would be less, but at least I know I'm not getting hosed. Looks like the independent front suspension is the culprit. Oh well, there goes the $$ I've been putting away for a Slee rear bumper. Sorry Christo.

100 TD,

Ordered the 80 series switch today. I will share your post with the installer. I know some like the ARB switches, but I prefer keeping the stock look as much as possible. Thanks for the "one switch" does all idea.

The install is scheduled for November 7th. Just in time for my Vetrans Day weekend trip to the Saline Valley and Cerro Gordo.

 

[Biff]

Biff, define cheap. How much did they charge for the install if you don't mind saying. I will be giving them a call, also.

Total cost to install front/rear locker was $375. I brought them the 3rd members and the did the rest.

 

[3rd Cruiser]

Total cost to install front/rear locker was $375. I brought them the 3rd members and the did the rest.

That was a great price Biff. 4x Doctor's price for the install was slightly cheaper then the others I talked to, but they weren't firm on the cost since they didn't have much experience with a 100 series. As spressomon said above, its the IFS that kicks up the labor costs.