Game on: Lift, Bumper(s), and Winch (3 Viewers)

[Hayes]

OK.

Placed order with SLEE today:

850/863 springs
N73/N74E shocks
steering damper
caster correction bushings
bushing press piece

I really wanted to go with the Edelbrock shocks. I've read great things about them, and their dimensions are very close to the OMEs (closer than the Bilsteins).

Unfortunately, the FZJ80 Edelbrocks (33999 and 34999) have been discontinued. I can't find them anywhere.

I'm hesitant about the Bilsteins--the dimensions of the rear shock are significantly shorter than the OMEs, so I've happily decided to go with the OMEs. Can't really fault the shocks that were specifically designed for the springs and have countless happy users.

I'll give a full report an pics when I get the stuff sometime next week.

Hayes

 

[landtank]

before pressing in those bushings I'd get the truck on a rack and find out where your at. Correcting catser is not an automatic thing.

 

[Hayes]

landtank,

If you mean find out what my current caster is, I did that yesterday:

4.1 degrees, and 3.8 degrees R/L

Assuming I lose 2 to 3 degrees of caster angle to the lift, the correction bushing should add a couple to get me back to around three degrees.

(see my earlier post)

If you mean something else, please explain....

Hayes

 

[e9999]

landtank,

If you mean find out what my current caster is, I did that yesterday:

4.1 degrees, and 3.8 degrees R/L

Assuming I lose 2 to 3 degrees of caster angle to the lift, the correction bushing should add a couple to get me back to around three degrees.

(see my earlier post)

If you mean something else, please explain....

Hayes

well, there have been mentions made of trucks with lifts in that range that did not require any correction at all, puzzling as this sounds.
I imagine it could be:
- trucks that have a caster way high to start with
- subjectivity / skill of the driver re: wandering
- magic

at any rate, it is worth trying it first without the correction, I guess

 

[Hayes]

Sounds voodoo.

 

[Godzilla FJ80]

How do you have adjustment left? Unless you install bushings or plates, you can not change the caster. What was your caster readings after you did the lift/bumper/winch.

Actually what I meant was, I didn't install the caster plates that so many have needed to. It was suggested to me that we install the lift, align the truck, then see if the caster plates were needed. Let me also clarify in saying that I MYSELF didn't do the alignment, but that's what my local 4X4 shop told me. The truck drove so good after the lift was installed that I didn't want to do anything else.

Except for some "SLEE" sway-bar drops of course!

 

[Hayes]

So does anyone else think I should wait to put the correction bushings on?

Hayes

 

[landtank]

I think you got it. From your numbers your truck seems to be on the strong side of caster. Nothing guarantees that you will get 2.5" of lift and that will influence your caster by 2.5*. Bolt everything on and have the alignment checked afterwards and then determine what to do. With your prelift numbers you might not have anything to do.

 

[Rich]

Has anybody done a lift, had the caster checked, and found it to be in spec without having modified the the axle brackets or leading arms or bushings or frame brackets where the actual after lift caster value is actually known?

 

[landtank]

Rich, up until now I think everyone has been assuming that the stock setup is near 3* and an OME heavy will yield a drop of 2.5* in caster. Simple math, right. But look at E9999 numbers at 1.5* and Hayes at 4.1, quite a difference for 2 stock trucks. But this also asked the question as to what shape the axle is in. Loose wheel bearings and worn trunions will influence the rack readings, won't they?

 

[Hayes]

Even when the unlifted caster angles vary widely, isnt the change caused by the lift pretty reliable?

I figure, even if I'm still within spec after the lift--say right around 2 or slightly less--wouldn't it still be advantagous to use the correction bushings to get me closer to 3-3.5 degrees? Or simply closer to my pre-lift caster angle?

Yes? No?

Having the angle measured for free at Les Schwab is pretty darn easy, so I really don't have any hangup about that.

Hayes

 

[landtank]

There has been a lot of threads lately on the driveshaft Grrrrr. It has to do with how the differential aligns to the T-Case. If I were to put on the springs and found that I was at or near the minimum and the truck drove fine and there was no Grrr I'd think long and hard about upsetting that with the bushings or plates or whatever.

Find those threads, there is some good driveline reading in there.

 

[Romanknight]

More caster Q?

I have OME J springs, cc bushings, ARB non-winch front bar, totally rebuild axle, new tie+relay rods.
My caster is -0.8 left/ -0.4 right. Truck pulls to the left.
Slee's caster plates added to my setup will add 4 degrees, corect? This will take me to +3.2 left/ +3.6 right, within Toy specs. Does this sound right?
You, guys, feel free to chime in!...

 

[landtank]

Christo would know better, but those bushings have already moved your tierod closer to the leading arms. Now Christo's plates with stock bushings can have contact issues, you're probably guarenteed to have to be grinding on those arms to get them in there, but I think that will take care of your caster and solve the pulling problem

 

[Hayes]

Ordered up a Slee front bumper yesterday. The bumper and 2.5 OME heavy kit should (hopefully) both be here by the weekend. I'll be sure to take pictures.

Anyone know if I should install the winch (XD9000) before or after installing the bumper?

Hayes

 

[sleeoffroad]

Winch gets installed in bumper before installing bumper on the truck.

 

[Hayes]

Thanks Christo.
And thanks for the quick service.

Hayes

 

[Romanknight]

It looks like the short/stock panhard rod is what pulls the whole axle to the left side, so, that might be what's pulling the truck. Pulling is my concern. Other than that, truck handles well, I don't want to fix what ain't broken. So, Rick, you're saying that caster plates will solve one problem, but give me another one (clearance+grinding issues). Is there a free lunch, anywhere?

 

[Hayes]

Wow.
Ordered the bumper yesterday, it's here today.
Talk about service.

Thanks Christo and Ben.

Now, if I can fit it in my Subaru I'll go pick it up at the terminal on my way home...

...worth a try.

Hayes

 

[landtank]

It looks like the short/stock panhard rod is what pulls the whole axle to the left side, so, that might be what's pulling the truck. Pulling is my concern. Other than that, truck handles well, I don't want to fix what ain't broken. So, Rick, you're saying that caster plates will solve one problem, but give me another one (clearance+grinding issues). Is there a free lunch, anywhere?

No free lunch dude. You need to put the stock bushings in and get the truck on the rack to see what you need. Once you know that then you can determine what your choicess are. For all we know your CC bushing might be installed wrong. But without the before numbers we can't tell. The CC bushing provide 2.5* correction and if all you need is that and you aren't getting it then it's an install problem.

I prefer a one step at a time approach, lift, correct caster and then issues.

hope this helps