Worked i did went fast
FZJ80 Airbag Light (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gmandy
- Start date
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Just tried this technique and worked on the first try! I used the ground for the factory horn.
Seems like the key is to keep going back and forth between the 2 contacts until the light finally goes off. Some, me included, were only going back and forth between TC and AB twice. All that did was get the airbag light in the dash to start blinking but it didn't completely remove the code. I went back and did it back and forth about 6 times and then the light was off and stayed off.
In the event anyone is having trouble with this procedure, I used multimeter leads in the DTC. I connected wires with alligator clips into the hole on the opposite end of the multimeter leads and extended them inside the truck.
I was able to hold the two clips side by side and use a 3rd alligator clip in between them that went to ground. Positioning the clips this way made it easier to experiment with how fast to move the ground clip from Tc to AB. My problem is I was going too fast and too slow on the first few tries. I eventually got the SRS light to blink fast at 50ms intervals.
Unfortunately for me, my codes came right back after 30 seconds of running the engine. 54, 31, 12, and 11.
I was able to hold the two clips side by side and use a 3rd alligator clip in between them that went to ground. Positioning the clips this way made it easier to experiment with how fast to move the ground clip from Tc to AB. My problem is I was going too fast and too slow on the first few tries. I eventually got the SRS light to blink fast at 50ms intervals.
Unfortunately for me, my codes came right back after 30 seconds of running the engine. 54, 31, 12, and 11.
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To clear all of those codes, replacing the SRS ECU worked. Found 89170-60010 / 8917060010 for $100 from a junk yard on ebay. T40 socket. Fairly easy replacement.
Perhaps I’ll give it another shot.
finally got mine, picking up the pace helped me as well
also, I used my power probe which is a great way of accessing ground! the leads are very long and attach to the battery. If you don't have a power probe, you should! the LEDs helped keep me on target
also, I used my power probe which is a great way of accessing ground! the leads are very long and attach to the battery. If you don't have a power probe, you should! the LEDs helped keep me on target
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Yep, this is pretty frustrating. I tried for a half hour with some rigged wire, grounding on the nut next to the diagnostic module without success. Then I soldered myself up a little harness to ensure I had good connection and grounded at the battery terminal. Then it took me about another 15 minutes trying it at different rates, slow, fast, more than 2 times, etc. finally it went off!
This just worked for me. Grounded to the battery neg and went pretty quickly. Thanks
