FYI POR 15

[Glenn-BJ74]

I'm undercoating the frame and chassis of my 80 with POR 15 - I have one 4 oz tin left, so I was calling around this morning for more...
Lordco regular price 1 qt (946ml) Gloss Black = $72.00
Lordco car club discount price (on account) = $65.14
Canadian Tire = $59.99
Amazon.com (US) = 42.47 USD ($C58.00)
KMS = $52.98
KMS (member price) = $48.00
Best deal KMS

 

[Enigma]

Love the Lordco "discounts"...

 

[AJAEbj42]

Any USA sources? I haven't bought it in a while but yikes...

 

[cruiserpilot]

Amazon.ca??

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

crusierpilot ....Amazon.ca= $72.52 with $30.11 shipping !!!
I suspect KMS has not revised their price since the exchange rate went up.
When they restock from the US the price will increase.

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Seam sealed and undercoated for this year.

 

[BCR4619]

Wow Glenn, Looks good!

Sprayed?

 

[Enigma]

Looks just like mine underneath. Except everything on mine is deepy gouged, scratched, few dents, couple things bent. I think some of it might still even be black.

 

[Fantom]

That's far too clean, I didn't realize you were building it up for the mall runs
That's brushed on? I wouldn't think Glenn would be spraying that stuff in his brand new shop.

 

[BCR4619]

That's far too clean, I didn't realize you were building it up for the mall runs
That's brushed on? I wouldn't think Glenn would be spraying that stuff in his brand new shop.

Yeah after thinking it over you would have to thin it to spray. so disregard the previous post, none the less it looks amazing.

Where is a SS 3" exhaust

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

In general I think brushing is better, pushes the paint in and around crevasses, the down side I went through a dozen paint brushes. I sprayed some impossible to get spots as best as I could. I like paint now as the thicker gravel guard stuff I have used before can hide rust underneath for a awhile before it is discovered.
The 3" exhaust and power rod is on - pulls like a train up the Coquihalla - feels like an additional 30 to 40 hp.

 

[BulletHead]

Which seam sealer is this? I thought they were all grey.

 

[Enigma]

In general I think brushing is better, pushes the paint in and around crevasses, the down side I went through a dozen paint brushes. I sprayed some impossible to get spots as best as I could. I like paint now as the thicker gravel guard stuff I have used before can hide rust underneath for a awhile before it is discovered.
The 3" exhaust and power rod is on - pulls like a train up the Coquihalla - feels like an additional 30 to 40 hp.

I noticed the "big box outlet" stores around here have lots of cheap paint brushes; perfect for that stuff I'd imagine.

How's smoke and egt's?

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Which seam sealer is this? I thought they were all grey.

Pro Form PF214

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

I noticed the "big box outlet" stores around here have lots of cheap paint brushes; perfect for that stuff I'd imagine.


Dollarama paint brushes - $1.25 for 1 1/2" wide throwaways


How's smoke and egt's?

.
With the new boost controller - no smoke.
The pre-turbo EGTs are 800F cruising level at 115k/h in the Valley. 1,000 F on moderate grades and the steepest 8.5% grades on the Coq they are higher, as expected.

 

[tweeek]

How are you prepping for the POR15? The paint on my frame and axels is still intact in most spots but has sections that are surface rusting. Are you just painting over everything after a good cleaning or patching with the por15 and top coating everything?

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

This is what I did - others may do it differently.
Regarding the frame and chassis underneath -- after washing the mud clumps out with a hose I let dry to better see the dirty areas with a creeper (can't see dirt when wet). Then I use a large 2 gallon pump sprayer with TSP and hot water, and on a creeper I spray underneath and let soak in 30 min. Get the backing plates and above the axles - the u-joint areas - I had to scrape concealed grease and dirt spun off from the greased U-Joints. Then get into a rain suit and power wash underneath (with face mask) on the creeper, don't stop until you are completely soaked and can't continue without changing your clothes. Let the chassis dry and be prepared to do it again - unpleasant but necessary. Clean, clean, clean.

When clean, jack up the body, jack stand the rig and let the axles droop, pull off the wheels. Clean all the body seams ( I use brake cleaner) and Pro Form PF214 seam seal (assuming no rust) - if they are rusty - much more work . Wire brush thoroughly the rusty areas, treat with Metal Ready (which is water-based, zinc phosphate metal etching solution) paint rusty areas with POR 15. I then top coat the POR 15 patches with Tremclad Gloss Black. The areas with previous paint and no rust I circular sand to provide a bite and paint with POR 15 or Rust Bullet Top Coat (both expensive) or Tremclad Gloss Black. I use brake cleaner in a pump bottle to get the grime off before I paint. The wheel wells behind the wheels get perpetually sand blasted on gravel, so these areas are required to be cleaned and painted almost annually, as well as the underneath the sliders
I will do inside the frame - next fall/winter.

 

[Helomech]

Looks beauty Glenn! Nice work. Hope that keeps the rust at bay (bae?)

 

[Fantom]

Very shiny, looking forward to doing the same to mine to prolong the lifespan.