Fuse Box Questions

[drohweder]

1)When Replacing the stock box with an upgraded ATO type does it need to have a "negative bus"?

2)How can I split the fuse box so there are the ignition hot and always hot circuits?

3) For an Aux Fuse box running off a second battery, what exactly do I need?

4) What is a negative bus????

Those are my plans for the 40 and I already bought a few boxes from delcity but I am not sure they are going to be adequate. They are simple 6 circuit boxes. One standard the other with a 6 gang with hot lead:
https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=10822&page=1

Planned stock replacement:
-65 amp max for all branches
.250 male blade (side blade insertion)


Planned Aux:
GANG fuse block with 8 gauge hot wire, terminals and cover with 3/8" stud
Rated for 65 amp max for all branches

I am planning on running all my stock electrics off the starter battery and using the aux battery/fuse box for the stereo,lights, winch ect (none of which I have at this time).

Any help is greatly appreciated. Dan

 

[drohweder]

Do I need one of these instead??
https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=11262&page=1

 

[spotcruiser]

Fusing

1)When Replacing the stock box with an upgraded ATO type does it need to have a "negative bus"?

2)How can I split the fuse box so there are the ignition hot and always hot circuits?

3) For an Aux Fuse box running off a second battery, what exactly do I need?

4) What is a negative bus????

Those are my plans for the 40 and I already bought a few boxes from delcity but I am not sure they are going to be adequate. They are simple 6 circuit boxes. One standard the other with a 6 gang with hot lead:
https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=10822&page=1

Planned stock replacement:
-65 amp max for all branches
.250 male blade (side blade insertion)


Planned Aux:
GANG fuse block with 8 gauge hot wire, terminals and cover with 3/8" stud
Rated for 65 amp max for all branches

I am planning on running all my stock electrics off the starter battery and using the aux battery/fuse box for the stereo,lights, winch ect (none of which I have at this time).

Any help is greatly appreciated. Dan

1. No, your whole truck is a negative bus. :^)
2. I'd say install two separate fuse blocks or find a fuse block with separate fuse groupings (buses).
3. Just a separate fuse block.
4. Negative bus would be the other side of the line (negative ground on a vehicle). Can only see needing a fuse block like this on something like an RV that is built of wood rather than steel.

Good Luck with the mod.
Todd Bull.

 

[drohweder]

Thanks, to follow:

Do I need a negative ground pad on the fuse box like these:https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=11262&page=1

Or are the simple fuse boxes adequate like these:https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=10959&page=1


Does the "6-gang" block mean that they are all "hot"? What is the purpose of the wire attatched?
For a visual its this one I refer to: https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=10960&page=1

I have one of each (standard and gang) so what I really need to do is order at least one additional standard so I have two 6's split hot and keyed to replace my stock panel. The aux I should probably use another standard 6--is that right? Also, do I need to run a fusible link to my aux box and if so what size?

 

[spotcruiser]

Thanks, to follow:

Do I need a negative ground pad on the fuse box like these:https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=11262&page=1

Or are the simple fuse boxes adequate like these:https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=10959&page=1


Does the "6-gang" block mean that they are all "hot"? What is the purpose of the wire attatched?
For a visual its this one I refer to: https://www.delcity.net/tstore/servlet/pagebuilder?frame=catalog_browse&parentid=10960&page=1

I have one of each (standard and gang) so what I really need to do is order at least one additional standard so I have two 6's split hot and keyed to replace my stock panel. The aux I should probably use another standard 6--is that right? Also, do I need to run a fusible link to my aux box and if so what size?

1. You don't need the negative connection point.
2. The simple fuse box looks fine.
3. 6-gang just means 6 circuit. I assume they are all common (all wired together on the input side). Don't know if the wire is the supply line, a continuous hot for some accessory, or to allow you to daisy-chain fuse blocks. They don't show or mention the input connection point. Ask the vendor.
4. Sounds OK. A fuse or fusible link upstream of the fuse block is a good idea. Fuse it at or slightly higher than the cumulative rating of the fuse block circuits and you should be OK. If you find that it blows spuriously, raise it until you find a value that will hold for normal use, but still protect the circuit.

 

[drohweder]

Awesome. Just had a moment of clarity. Thanks again!!!

 

[drohweder]

So on a 71 40 how many circuits are keyed and how many are hot?

Gauge, Lights, fan, wiper seem keyed. Is the only thing that is hot my electric choke and starter???

If that is the case then I could use a 4 fuse hot and 6 keyed--or 4/4.

 

[trainrech]

Read your Factory Service Manual. If you don't have one, get it because the electrical schematics will come in handy at this point. Then read it. Your questions about your existing wiring, providing it hasn't been butchered, will be answered.

 

[drohweder]

I know its kindo like "did you do a search" before asking this question. I have the Hayes manual but the schematic does not really tell me which are hot and those that are keyed. I'll study it more tomorrow--I'm sure a FSM would be more detailed.

 

[Degnol]

If you replace the fusebox, I'd add more than you think you need. Other thinkg you might want to have hot with key off. Cigarette lighter, lights, radio, the circuit that feeds the little 12v plug-in trouble light.
IMO
GL
Ed

 

[Yoda]

My 71 has 6 fuses...3 hot, 3 switched. I have been thinking of getting that style also (2 6 gang boxes). Like they said, get more circuits than you think you need, you don't have to hook them all up now.

My OEM panel has rust on it and the fuses loose circuit (headlights go out at inoportune times.....kick at panel they come back on)

I'm sure that wire would be the lead-in wire.

 

[drohweder]

I ordered more than I need so I should have plenty of options. The stuff is so inexpensive at delcity.net that I figured spennind extra up front would save me time and money in the long run....hopefully.

Anyway, just waiting for the stuff to show up. Can't wait to get things laid out. Now my foot dimmer has a short in it and I need to replace it! It it isn't one thing......

 

[73lndcrsr]

I would go with the "pig tail" type of block. It will make your wiring cleaner. You will only need to run one power lead per block and with the 8ga you should be good as far as capacity. You will need to find a big relay if you want to max out the switched block. I have an 8 position in my '73 now and with I had more.

The ground pad is nice, but you can always make your own if you need to.

 

[sandcruiser]

Another option is to hit a junkyard and get a fuse box from a dead SUV. I used one from a heep XJ. While I know there are some folks who've said some mean things regarding installing a heep part into my Cruiser, the fact is, it works really nicely. Has space for about 1/2 dozen fuses, 3 or 4 relays, a reasonably dirt/water resistant cover, and it was easy to wire up. Paid $10 for it and that included about 5 feet of the wiring harness, from which I've used many of the little multi-colored wires for various switches. That also included all the fuses and a couple of relays.
YMMV, but it was a good solution for my needs.