Front suspension geometry questions in regards to a SAS. (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Dindu Nuffin
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- Thread starter
- #42
So I'd be running it on the coast side of the teeth, and would have to figure out something for the tie rod, unless that rear diff is also going to run upside down?
AgentOrange
TLCA #28372
The coast side of the teeth on a 9.5 is what is used on most every other Land Cruiser. They have been plenty reliable and strong until you're pushing bigger power/tires over 40. There's probably some here that would say even larger, but that's the extent of my experience. As for the steering, you do high steer up front. This goes back into just linking it while you're at it
- Thread starter
- #44
Well, I've yet to blow up the tiny glass jaw 7.5" front diff or a CV with the 35's I've been running for the past six years, and have no intentions of doing anything harder than what I'm doing now, so help me understand why I need a 9.5" R&P or tons.
Your a tuff cookie to convince
Most likely you don’t need the 9.5” Diff arguably it’s only slightly stronger than the 8” inch high opinion.
The reason why people are suggesting it is because the semi float rear 80 axle is much easier to flip and get on the driver side. It has a removable diff cover, so you don’t have to cut the one off the front.
It’s been done several times and well documented on Mud.
Some would also argue that the 9.5 is a stronger Diff.
It’s a natural progression if you make your rig more capable, you’re gonna try harder lines just because you haven’t broken your front diff doesn’t mean you won’t
Most likely you don’t need the 9.5” Diff arguably it’s only slightly stronger than the 8” inch high opinion.
The reason why people are suggesting it is because the semi float rear 80 axle is much easier to flip and get on the driver side. It has a removable diff cover, so you don’t have to cut the one off the front.
It’s been done several times and well documented on Mud.
Some would also argue that the 9.5 is a stronger Diff.
It’s a natural progression if you make your rig more capable, you’re gonna try harder lines just because you haven’t broken your front diff doesn’t mean you won’t
- Thread starter
- #46
Oh, I'm easy to convince when there's no question in my mind. For one, I'm dead set on doing a three link. So thank you for that. 
I'm looking at some semi floaters on ebay and it's not looking like the diff isn't offset as much as the front axle appears to be. I'm guessing one side of the tube would be shortened and the other lengthened? I'll get to searching here to find what others have done.
I'm looking at some semi floaters on ebay and it's not looking like the diff isn't offset as much as the front axle appears to be. I'm guessing one side of the tube would be shortened and the other lengthened? I'll get to searching here to find what others have done.
My argument, for either one, tons or hybrid Toy axle is simple: you're already in this deep, no matter what you do, it's going to be cheaper and less work to do something right once than to half-ass it and THEN do it right. If there's ANY chance you'll want to do it in the future, now may as well be the time.Oh, I'm easy to convince when there's no question in my mind. For one, I'm dead set on doing a three link. So thank you for that.
I'm looking at some semi floaters on ebay and it's not looking like the diff isn't offset as much as the front axle appears to be. I'm guessing one side of the tube would be shortened and the other lengthened? I'll get to searching here to find what others have done.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
80 series, front and rear diff have the same offset.
The difference in width comes from the rear diff not having knuckles between the axle housing and spindles. It's just axle tube ----> spindles vs axle tube ---> knuckle ---> spindle.
It means you have longer axle tubes to work with to get a wider WMS.
cut the straight spindles out, swap in knuckle balls. (Trim housing to length needed)
You'd still need a donor front housing to get knuckle balls, knuckles etc from
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
If you're happy with the vehicle's capability, you're talking about a huge amount of work to solve a single weakness.
In doing so, you'll compromise a lot of OEM goodness that you seem happy with. You're adamant you won't use it beyond your current use.
Sounds like a sledgehammer to squash a fly scenario.
I think in general, when it comes to modifying cars, it takes a certain arrogance or naivety to think you can do a one off major conversion without compromising something whether it be handling, looks, reliability etc etc
I learnt a a teenager, modifying cars, you're modifying stuff that has thousands of hours of design development and design integration.
Messing with it ALWAYS has unexpected consequences.
Not saying you can't do it, or shouldn't do it, just saying even for pros, this stuff is highly complex, and ALWAYS involves compromises in design and outcome etc
Seems to me, you could solve the ball joint issue with aftermarket bolt in upgrades for less than you'll spend to hack up a vehicle you're clearly happy with. Not to mention the time it will take.
3 minutes of Google-FU turns up this, and I'm guessing there's other options
In doing so, you'll compromise a lot of OEM goodness that you seem happy with. You're adamant you won't use it beyond your current use.
Sounds like a sledgehammer to squash a fly scenario.
I think in general, when it comes to modifying cars, it takes a certain arrogance or naivety to think you can do a one off major conversion without compromising something whether it be handling, looks, reliability etc etc
I learnt a a teenager, modifying cars, you're modifying stuff that has thousands of hours of design development and design integration.
Messing with it ALWAYS has unexpected consequences.
Not saying you can't do it, or shouldn't do it, just saying even for pros, this stuff is highly complex, and ALWAYS involves compromises in design and outcome etc
Seems to me, you could solve the ball joint issue with aftermarket bolt in upgrades for less than you'll spend to hack up a vehicle you're clearly happy with. Not to mention the time it will take.
3 minutes of Google-FU turns up this, and I'm guessing there's other options
2023-CURRENT Toyota Sequoia Suspension And Accessories
High-performance off-road suspension systems and components that improve your vehicle's handling and reinforce weak points from the factory. We stock replacement bushings and hardware to keep your TC products operating at their best.
www.chaosfab.com
This ^^^^ 100 percent
- Thread starter
- #51
Uniballs are a deal breaker. I’ve extensively researched the IFS options and the only one that comes close to making sense to me are uniball converted LBJ housings. If there was a way to seal them, I’d consider it, but there’s still the rest of the IFS under there. I’ve already been in contact with Total Chaos about theirs and they said they only work on trucks with a 2-3” suspension lift and won’t work on stock height suspension. They couldn’t really give me a reason but said that some have tried that and none could get what I’m assuming was the caster into alignment. He said SPC adjustable uppers *might* get it close but couldn’t guarantee it. Why I mention stock suspension is because I have a bracket lift, so my suspension geometry is essentially stock.
I spent a few hours yesterday looking at the possibility of flipping the t-case so I can run a passenger drop axle as well as a stock 9.5 rear. From what I can tell from the parts fische and FSM, all I’d have to do would be reroute the oil pump pickup. It’s a fully electronic case so no shifter to deal with. I wouldn’t use a 100 case because the Sequoia case is more versatile. I even went as far as investigating the possibility of swapping in FJC spindles and LCAs. So…
Cruiser Brothers is about 40 minutes from me and I’ve seen they’ve done a ton of stuff like what I want to do, so I’ll be in contact with them. There’s a local yard with an 80 front and semi floater rear, as well as 80 steering gear. As it stands now its looking like a three link flipped 9.5 rear with 80 balls and knucks, and if it’ll fit, an 80 steering gear. I’m going to have to regear, so I’ll be tossing a Harrop at it while I’m there. And lastly, I’ll get some full floater chunks on the rear at some point after the SAS.
Sound good to you guys?
I spent a few hours yesterday looking at the possibility of flipping the t-case so I can run a passenger drop axle as well as a stock 9.5 rear. From what I can tell from the parts fische and FSM, all I’d have to do would be reroute the oil pump pickup. It’s a fully electronic case so no shifter to deal with. I wouldn’t use a 100 case because the Sequoia case is more versatile. I even went as far as investigating the possibility of swapping in FJC spindles and LCAs. So…
Cruiser Brothers is about 40 minutes from me and I’ve seen they’ve done a ton of stuff like what I want to do, so I’ll be in contact with them. There’s a local yard with an 80 front and semi floater rear, as well as 80 steering gear. As it stands now its looking like a three link flipped 9.5 rear with 80 balls and knucks, and if it’ll fit, an 80 steering gear. I’m going to have to regear, so I’ll be tossing a Harrop at it while I’m there. And lastly, I’ll get some full floater chunks on the rear at some point after the SAS.
Sound good to you guys?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Sounds like you have s plan, and determined to stick with it.
Always multiple ways to skin a cat!
Post a build thread when you get started. Will be a unique beast when you get it done.
Always multiple ways to skin a cat!
Post a build thread when you get started. Will be a unique beast when you get it done.
- Thread starter
- #54
I'll start amassing parts in the next week or two and take my time over the winter getting them ready for install. No idea how long this is going to take, so we're going to hold off until the spring to start cutting and welding. Once we start, it'll probably a video series but if a build thread, it'll be over in the Sequoia/Tundra playpen.
All, I sincerely appreciate the discussion, ideas, and off track tangents. After listening to and contemplating what's been said here, I feel much better about this path than the one I showed up with. Thank you.
As you know the Sequoia/tundra play pen is super quiet 
We can use some action over there!
Also beware that the 91- 92 80 front axle's have smaller front brakes then the 93-97s
We can use some action over there!
Also beware that the 91- 92 80 front axle's have smaller front brakes then the 93-97s
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Come on guys 2 1/2 tons front and rear steer with pinion brakes is where it's at.
- Thread starter
- #57
As you know the Sequoia/tundra play pen is super quiet
We can use some action over there!
Also beware that the 91- 92 80 front axle's have smaller front brakes then the 93-97s
I'm going to call the yard with the axles and steering gear tomorrow, but I believe the front they have is a '94-'97 with ABS and the rear is "drum to drum" out of a '91. The '93-'97 rotors are only a few mm smaller than the Sequoia rotors and both the 80 and the tree have the same diameter caliper pistons, so there shouldn't be too much if any bias issues. We'll see what happens. Either way, my go to for an upgrade while retaining OEM sized brakes is cryo treated Brembo blanks and Porterfield R4S pads.
Shhh... I'm really doing an 8X8 HEMMET axle conversion.
Tank5
SILVER Star
I have an 01 Tundra that I have been collecting parts for to SAS. I’m planning to do just what you are talking about using all 80 series components up front but I am planning to use a custom housing to get the correct width. I don’t want to run spacers with a stock 80 housing. I am also batting around which differential to use 9.5 or hp 8.
I believe it is possible to mount an atlas transfer case behind the a340 transmission and the a750 with a little more work. If you run the atlas you could have it drop on either side passenger or driver.
Because the tundra and sequoia are already configured (drive shaft, exhaust, oil pan) for a driver drop I would probably stick with that.
Another benefit of doing SAS on these trucks is you can move the front axle forward to allow for larger tires such 35s without having to cut fender wells or clearancing the cab.
When you start a build thread post it up I would like follow along.
I believe it is possible to mount an atlas transfer case behind the a340 transmission and the a750 with a little more work. If you run the atlas you could have it drop on either side passenger or driver.
Because the tundra and sequoia are already configured (drive shaft, exhaust, oil pan) for a driver drop I would probably stick with that.
Another benefit of doing SAS on these trucks is you can move the front axle forward to allow for larger tires such 35s without having to cut fender wells or clearancing the cab.
When you start a build thread post it up I would like follow along.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
This ^^^^ so many options tho really how much money you got or wanna spend on all this is going to be the real factor in my opinion you wanna get it done buy s*** to save time you wanna save money build it yourself and add time.
Wouldn't you be better off in the Hardcore section? I want to follow this as well.
