Front Double Carden Driveshaft Project for the 80

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Lugboot

Lugboot

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Okay, so I want to start tackling sourcing a Double Carden front driveshaft for my 80 series.

So, based on what I've read over in 80-land, I can shorten the rear shaft of certain Tacomas and Tundras to get the job done at less cost than dropping coin on a new custom shaft.

I need to find a complete rear driveshaft from one of the following:

95.5-04 extra or double cab Tacoma

00-07 extra cab Tundra

Anyone have any leads on sources for these? Good salvage yards, etc.? Anyone going to a yard in the near future that could pick one up for me?

I'm really getting tired of my truck growling at me when I take my foot off the gas.

After sourcing the drive shaft, I'll need to find a good local driveshaft shop to shorten it. I believe I read a compressed length of 31" is the target.

Any help will be appreciated!

btw--doing tie rod ends tonight after work...

Brett
 
IMHO I would just get a new one. Some of those guys on the 80 board bought them sight unseen and were disapointed. How much is the difference in getting a used one vs. a brand new one? There is something to be said for the piece of mind of new made for your truck parts.:)
 
True dat on new parts...but the one Slee sells is about $400. It's built with some beefy tubing and new Spicer joints, though. I was reading prices of around $80-ish for a rear shaft from a salvage yard and the the price of having it cut and rebalanced equalling maybe half the cost of a Slee drive shaft.

The sight-unseen thing bothers me, too. I'd want to see it prior to buying or have someone take a look at it, too. That warning was delivered over in the 80s section by a member as well.

If it ends up looking like it's going to be a crazy production to try save the dough, I may just opt to save the time and spend the money. Bolt up the new shaft and don't look back...
 
If you can find a Tacoma rear shaft for $80 you have found one hell of a deal, they go for around $150 and up around here unfortunately. My buddy is looking for one as a trail spare and to modify when he puts the crawler in his Tacoma.

There is a pretty good driveshaft shop in the Lemoyne area near Fagers Plumbing, I was going to use them to do the drivehsafts in the 4 Runner, but just did it myself, but will be using them when we redo the shafts in Dads FJ40.
 
$150 and up? Wow. If that's the going rate before getting it shortened, there may be less benefit than I thought to going this route.

Where is your buddy looking for one? What are some possible local sources?
 
He said there was a junkyard over towards 72 somewhere that had one, now this was for the entire 2 piece shaft, you would only need part of it I would guess. He is down towards Lancaster. Also check ebay, some pop up there every now and then.
 
Brett, I would PM Gary S. and get a 60 series DC and have a shop use your shaft to mate the two and drill out the pattern. Seems simple and cheap.... unless you find one of the newer shafts for cheap, I would not hesitate to use a 60 series DC... it is a Cruiser after all, very heavy duty.
 
60-series had Double Cardan shafts? I never knew.

But you're saying the flange bolt pattern is different, right?

Anyone got a pic of a 60-series DC shaft or more info on the bolt pattern?

I'll PM Gary, too. Thanks for the tip.
 
I read the thread you linked and a 2nd option was to do that... and yeah, drilling out the flange is pretty common... hope it helps!

*edit, pic from SOR:

092b3.gif
 
I see the posts you are talking about. davegonz used the front 60 shaft to make a rear 80 shaft. I need a front 80 shaft. So, I'm going to post up a question in that thread about using a front 60 DC shaft to make a front 80 DC shaft.
 
So, the 60-series front DC shaft won't work for the 80 without having to remove the studs from the TC flange, drill new holes and install new studs. I have no desire to screw with my TC flange.

Back to junkyards or buying one.
 
So, a yard in Manheim has two driveshafts I could use for $150 each.

Does anyone know of a driveshaft shop in the Harrisburg/Carlisle area they would trust to do the work? I'd like to get prices.

The main reason for still pursuing this route is to keep a Koyo joint instead of a Spicer, which apparently has easier maintenance.

Input? Drive shaft shops?

Thanks,

Brett
 
Brake Drum & Equipment Co. is right down the road from me at work, (717)761-1111

I may use them to do the FJ40 shafts unless I do them, but will most likely have them weld up my rear shaft for the 4 Runner when I retube it with schedule 40. They quoted me $50 to lengthen or shorten a shaft, not bad. They can also send it out to be spin balanced.
 
I'm with Chris on this one. I just got a brand new DC shaft from Slee and called it a day. Don't mean to discourage what you are trying to do. I did explore other options and thought this is the big bang for the buck. Just my $0.02.

:cheers:
 
Believe me, that is still a possibility. But I figure it's worth a couple phone calls to see what it would end up costing to go the Tacoma route. Seems like I'm always weighing time vs. money...
 
Made some phone calls this morning.

Hmm,

So, $150 for a driveshaft
$50 to shorten it (if the old tube can be re-used)
$75 to spin balance it
Best case: $275 plus tax.

Unknowns:
~$60 more if new tube is needed.
$?? more if U-Joints need replaced in salvage shaft.

huh.
 
$275 is less than $400, but the Slee one is ready to go fully built, no worries with the joints. Is your truck full time 4wd, I can't remember, if not no real need to spin balance, as long as they get it straight with the dial indicator, it sholdn't be that big of a deal.
 
jtaco1 said:
$275 is less than $400, but the Slee one is ready to go fully built, no worries with the joints. Is your truck full time 4wd, I can't remember, if not no real need to spin balance, as long as they get it straight with the dial indicator, it sholdn't be that big of a deal.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm weighing--time v. money v. unknowns.

It's full-time 4wd, so I definitely need the spin-balance.
 
I thought I read the Slee front DC shaft is almost impossible to grease the center grease zerk while on the truck. Slee himself also admitted that using the Toyota factory parts is better. He stated he tried to find a source for them, but couldn't without making the shaft very expensive. I'm curious what height lift you are running, what caster correction you are using, and if you tried installing new OEM u joints in your front shaft. I am running 3 - 3.5" of lift and just had to pull my front shaft yesterday due to excessive vibes. I like the way it drives so much I am considering doing a part time conversion kit. That way I can run the stock shaft and keep the currently installed 3 degree caster correction bushings.
 
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