Front Clip Removal

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Joined
Jan 30, 2003
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181
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13,506
Location
All over Arizona
Howdy! Is it possible to remove the entire front clip in one piece? I have had the outer fenders off before, but now I need to pull the inner fenders. Do I have to peel the outers first?? John
 
I don't think so. There are bolts running down the firewall braces and two on top. They are a bitch to get, but it's doable. Then you got the two easy ones on the front cross member.
Howdy! Yup. I was afraid somebody would say that. After I went back out and looked at it some more, I figured that if I raised the front support to clear those two big bolts, then it would bind up on the outer fenders where they fit under the windshield area. I only need to pull the inner fender on the DS, but it looks like I have to pull the whole front clip. John
 
Sorry. I answered the second question with the I don't think so. I wasn't clear. I think you can pull the entire front clip together. I don't think you have to pull the fenders first. You just have to get at the 4 or 5 bolts per side running down the firewall.

there is no inner fender on the DS. It is one big piece. Both inner fenders and the core support are a welded unit.
 
have an entire complete front clip but the fenders were removed before I got it...it can be done; I didn't do it though.........HTH

Lou
Howdy! It looks like it MIGHT come out without bending the sheet metal below the A pillars, but it will be close, and I am pretty much doing this by myself, so no extra hands to wiggle and waggle. Worst part is that both inside fenders are attached to the radiator support bracket, and so both will have to be removed to work on just one side. Oh well, I need the practice!! John
 
what ya up to john?
Howdy! I have to rework my Saginaw PS box mount. Either the old AA bracket has broken, or worse yet, the frame has cracked right behind the front cross member. It's just too crowded in that area to do it without either pulling the engine or the bodywork. I want to strengthen the area and then eventually add ram assist to take some of the stress off of the frame. All the steering bits are over 30 years old, so when they wear out, they will be upgraded. I went to 4x4 Labs high steer last winter when the 20 year old welded double steering arm died. That should prevent me from bending my tie rod, like someone I remember a few years ago at a Pig Gathering up on the Rim. John
 
Sorry. I answered the second question with the I don't think so. I wasn't clear. I think you can pull the entire front clip together. I don't think you have to pull the fenders first. You just have to get at the 4 or 5 bolts per side running down the firewall.

there is no inner fender on the DS. It is one big piece. Both inner fenders and the core support are a welded unit.

What the gumbinator said...the inner fenders are welded together in the front core support area..and ergo the inner fenders (both) and the radiator core support come off in one big "U" shaped piece. If you just need to yank off the drivers side inner...the only way I can think of is to drill out and air chisel the welds or make a cut at the bottom weld point. Somewhere I have some pics....I'll post em if I can fine em.
 
A couple pics of the front clip...the place to drill and chisel or cut is in the lower section where it's spot welded togeter to the core support. Otherwise, it needs to come off in it's entirity.
pigfront.webp
pigfront2.webp
pigfront3.webp
 
That should prevent me from bending my tie rod, like someone I remember a few years ago at a Pig Gathering up on the Rim. John


well if you remember that was a stock tie rod with 36" swampers, the other AZ pig guy, RUSH, noticed a couple cracks in his frame on his saginaw set-up last year. he welded, then braced and it should be good for a long time.
 
the clip I have came off in one "U" shaped piece, just like Todd shows........can get pix and post them if you think they might help:cheers:;

Lou

A couple pics of the front clip...the place to drill and chisel or cut is in the lower section where it's spot welded togeter to the core support. Otherwise, it needs to come off in it's entirity.
 
Howdy! Yea, I'm not going to try it in one piece. I already have both outer fenders peeled off, and today I'm going to pull the heater box to get to the bolts behind it. Already go everything loose on the DS. John
 
Howdy! Yea, I'm not going to try it in one piece. I already have both outer fenders peeled off, and today I'm going to pull the heater box to get to the bolts behind it. Already go everything loose on the DS. John
Howdy! Update. Got the blower box off. Took me a few minutes to find the "secret bolt" on the inside of the firewall. Only thing left is the fuel system. I have a filter and adjustable regulator on the fender that have to come off. Easy. Only problem so far is one of the two long bolts under the radiator support bracket is stuck. I've been soaking it for 3 days, but no luck so far. I may just torch the head off and replace it if it doesn't let go tomorrow. John
 
Ok,where is this secret bolt to get the blower box off ? :D

I thought I had all my bolts out but it wont budge ;p

Chris
 
Ok,where is this secret bolt to get the blower box off ? :D

I thought I had all my bolts out but it wont budge ;p

Chris
Howdy! I actually figured it out from looking at the diagram in the Haynes manual. It was labeled "disassembly order", 1, 2, 3, etc. Anyway, it is inside the cab, near the bottom outside corner of the blower duct. It threads into a little itty bitty L bracket that is held on by the screw that holds that corner of the 2 halves of the blower box. I tried and tried to find a bolt head in that area from the frontside of the firewall, but it just was NOT there, DUH. I spent WAY too long on that one. John
 
Hmmm...I will see if I can find a manual to look at.I had three or four bolts all on the inside of the cab.One up by the wiper motor,and the others around the opening the air comes into the cab.

Im going back to the shop in the morning to install an inverter to run Christmas lights for a parade next weekend and will take another look when I git done with that :pig:

Thanks alot :beer:
 
Howdy! Hmmm.... Must be a difference in year models. In the Haynes, it is at the bottom of page 208. The bolt that it shows going thru the air duct is the one I had trouble finding, until I saw the pic. It goes thru a hole, not shown in the diagram, and traps in a nut on the back(engine side) of the flange on the blower box. I wonder if the early model was a bit different. John
 
Woohoo,I got it :D

I had all the bolts out,it was just super dooper stuck to the firewall.With all the secret bolt talk I didnt just wanna go at it with my 4" Snap On pry bar until I was sure I wasnt missing something ;p

Thanks alot for the help,
Chris
 
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