Front clicking

[Vaudo]

I have had a click in the front left tire that I've chased for years. It occurs when I turn sharp. I have replaced the birfs, the bearings, the seals, the axle shaft itself, the spindle. The outer flanges seem to be fine. I keep getting leakage from the differential into my hub. I've replaced that seal twice. When I pull the shaft out, I hear a "pop" like it seems to be sealing good. My end nuts and lock washer preload is to spec. I don't have any play in the wheel.

I've brought it to two Toyota dealers near me that wanted 10 hours labor to access and immediately recommended I put in new parts that are already brand new.

What method would you use to figure this out?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Use the knuckle centering tool to make sure your axle is centered as it rides on the seal. Make sure your differential breather is working. A pop likely indicates it is not. If pressure builds, diff fluid can push through the seal, mix with grease, making it a soup which removes grease from the birf, which causes clicking

 

[jpoole]

As mentioned above, check the axle vent, make sure it's not clogged, particularly in the elbow that threads into the axle.

Is the clicking rotational with the wheel or more related to pressure from the steering rod input on the wheel (and feedback from the wheel)? I ask because the frame could be cracked around the front-end which is pretty common with these and could allow flex that causes clicking noises at full lock. Read up on this issue with the 80s on the forum to find pictures showing the common crack places then you can lay under the front-end with a flashlight studying while someone rocks the steering wheel back and forth in/out of pressure on the wheel which may be enough to help you isolate any cracks/movement. The cracks are typically visible at rest also if they've been there a while.

Another source for popping/clicking can be a failed viscous coupler. If you are in 4 HI with a US spec 80 series the center diff should not be locked up and the driveshafts/axles shouldn't bind much, if any, when making hard turns. Many/most of the US 80s shipped with a VC in the center diff that over time can stiffen/lock up and basically act like a locked center diff at all times. This will cause your tires to chirp if you turn at full lock on pavement and puts extra stress on the drivetrain which will contribute to clicking.

I'd guess most likely scenario is a clogged axle breather and stiff VC combining to cause the birf to click due to insufficient lube and/or wear. Of course there are plenty of other possible causes. If it's rotational clicking that reflects acceleration/deceleration though the birf is most likely.

 

[Vaudo]

Use the knuckle centering tool to make sure your axle is centered as it rides on the seal. Make sure your differential breather is working. A pop likely indicates it is not. If pressure builds, diff fluid can push through the seal, mix with grease, making it a soup which removes grease from the bird, which causes clicking

Thanks. I have taken the breather off and blown through it. Is there more to it than that to make sure it’s not clogged?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Thanks. I have taken the breather off and blown through it. Is there more to it than that to make sure it’s not clogged?

No. If problem still continues, check that your axle shafts are not bent or worn where the seal rides.

 

[jpoole]

Thanks. I have taken the breather off and blown through it. Is there more to it than that to make sure it’s not clogged?

What did you blow through? Many report that the elbow that threads into the axle clogs so even if the hose/breather is clear that elbow could be clogged. It is easy to just unscrew that elbow, clear it out and reinstall.

 

[80t0ylc]

^^^ that finishes the job of checking the breather. But also visibly check the hole in the housing. On a rebuild of the front axle, mine had a glob of grease plugging that hole.

 

[Vaudo]

What did you blow through? Many report that the elbow that threads into the axle clogs so even if the hose/breather is clear that elbow could be clogged. It is easy to just unscrew that elbow, clear it out and reinstall.

I had the same thought. I’m gonna try that now with an air compressor.

As mentioned above, check the axle vent, make sure it's not clogged, particularly in the elbow that threads into the axle.

Is the clicking rotational with the wheel or more related to pressure from the steering rod input on the wheel (and feedback from the wheel)? I ask because the frame could be cracked around the front-end which is pretty common with these and could allow flex that causes clicking noises at full lock. Read up on this issue with the 80s on the forum to find pictures showing the common crack places then you can lay under the front-end with a flashlight studying while someone rocks the steering wheel back and forth in/out of pressure on the wheel which may be enough to help you isolate any cracks/movement. The cracks are typically visible at rest also if they've been there a while.

Another source for popping/clicking can be a failed viscous coupler. If you are in 4 HI with a US spec 80 series the center diff should not be locked up and the driveshafts/axles shouldn't bind much, if any, when making hard turns. Many/most of the US 80s shipped with a VC in the center diff that over time can stiffen/lock up and basically act like a locked center diff at all times. This will cause your tires to chirp if you turn at full lock on pavement and puts extra stress on the drivetrain which will contribute to clicking.

I'd guess most likely scenario is a clogged axle breather and stiff VC combining to cause the birf to click due to insufficient lube and/or wear. Of course there are plenty of other possible causes. If it's rotational clicking that reflects acceleration/deceleration though the birf is most likely.

I put a bunch of info into ChatGPT and asked for some advice, diagnosing the viscous coupler. What it said was to chalk the rear tires jack the front tire up put the truck in neutral and try to turn the front tire if the tire would not turn the viscous coupler was bad. That was the case with mine the wheel would not turn so I began to takeoff the front driveshaft to sort of isolate if that was in fact the case and try to turn in a parking lot and see if the clicking went away. Now ChatGPT is telling me that it gave me the wrong advice in the wrong diagnosis in that my test did not indicate a bad viscous coupler. Can you verify whether or not I am testing it correctly.

 

[jpoole]

There are different ways to test including what I mentioned (making sharp turns on pavement and listenting for tire chirping as you will experience with a locked diff). Not knowing if you have a VC or not, have a center diff lock button, etc. I didn't want to get to deep into troubleshooting info that may not be appropriate. Main thing is, if your center diff lock is engaged or your VC is binding/locked they will both put your driveline under stress and it will cause tire chirping on pavement / hard turns and also can trigger cv joint clicking. You can go to a parking lot make hard turns, engage the center diff lock, repeat the hard turns and compare to get a sense for how open / unbound your VC is without even getting out of the drivers seat.

Drop this into Google to find lots of non-ai info on the subject:

80 test viscous coupler site:forum.ih8mud.com