Hey guys, i have the LCP sway bar disconnect’s on and they mount directly where the front bump stops go. Although i do Have the bump stop inside the coil even with extentions i do Not have enough bump stop. My plan was to get durobumps frame mounted front and rear but that is not possible with the sway bar disconnect’s. Any ideas? Or just more extension inside the coil buckets. Trying to avoid air bumps for now.
Front bump stop’s with sway bar disconnect
- Thread starter Cowmeat
- Start date
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OEM front frame mount bump stop land on top of the axle
not where the sway bar Mount is. There should be to threaded holes right above the axle in the frame to mount the bump stops to.
Early models came with them from the factory.
- Thread starter
- #3
OEM front frame mount bump stop land on top of the axle
There should be to threaded holes right above the axle in the frame to mount the bump stops to.
Early models came with them from the factory.
Correct. My sway bar disconnect is using that spot.OEM front frame mount bump stop land on top of the axle
There should be to threaded holes right above the axle in the frame to mount the bump stops to.
Early models came with them from the factory.
I don’t run a front sway
so maybe I’m not understanding the question Pictures please
I don’t see how the sway bar could reach that far in the up position.
More / longer spacers on the bump stops inside the front coils.
exitoffroad.com
@Broski the LCP swaybar disconnects use brackets to hold the swaybar up out of the way while it’s disconnected. The brackets use the bumpstop mounting location so the only available front bumps are inside the coils. The photo below shows the passenger side at full droop with the swaybar retained on the LCP disconnect bracket.
Dobinsons 80 Series Front Bump Stop Extensions Kit (1.0-2.0 in) 1990-1997 - Exit Offroad
Dobinsons 80 Series Front Bump Stop Extensions Kit adds 1" or 2" of spacing between the bump stops to stop shocks from bottoming out and to clear tire sizes
exitoffroad.com
@Broski the LCP swaybar disconnects use brackets to hold the swaybar up out of the way while it’s disconnected. The brackets use the bumpstop mounting location so the only available front bumps are inside the coils. The photo below shows the passenger side at full droop with the swaybar retained on the LCP disconnect bracket.
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Thanks for the explanation.
- Thread starter
- #7
OEM front frame mount bump stop land on top of the axle
There should be to threaded holes right above the axle in the frame to mount the bump stops to.
Early models came with them from the factory.
ThereI don’t run a front sway
Pictures please
I don’t see how the sway bar could reach that far in the up position.
all good dude. It’s not the sway bar mounts. I have A specific bracket that pins the front sway bar out of the way. It’s in the exact position that the bump stops mount to.I don’t run a front sway
Pictures please
I don’t see how the sway bar could reach that far in the up position.
Ya I see it now. I'm sure Phill used the mounting location out of convenience.
With some custom fab work I think you could have both as the swaybar pins up well back of where the bump stop would go.
But the easiest solution in inside the coils
With some custom fab work I think you could have both as the swaybar pins up well back of where the bump stop would go.
But the easiest solution in inside the coils
How much spacing did you already add to the inner coil bump and how much more do you need? Curious what your shock dimensions are or tire size that you need even more front bump stop spacing. Most 80s don’t come with the front frame bump stop and rely only on the inner coil bump fyi. I ditched my front frame bump when I added the LCP mounts and have had no issues with only the inner coil bump stop. Properly spaced with a 30mm spacer and that works with my long Dobinsons shocks and 37s.
just dont run a front sway bar problem solved
There is an Australian version of these that still allows the bump stop. I forget the name but ordered them last year. I will look at my shop in the morning and get you the name.
- Thread starter
- #12
I’m on kings and dobinsons. Still getting some fender contact on 37’s
You have several options...
I made one out of aluminum angle.
There is no load while sway bar is pinned up, I use zip ties for years before I did this.
I run Timbrens on my front axle.
They work great for strait hits like going fast play in the desert or even hitting speed bumps or dips faster than normal.
The axle bump stops rarely come into play while articulating at slow speeds, coil bump stops are for that.
You can start reading my bumpstop journey at around page #36 of my build thread.
Front Timbrens is page #46
I made one out of aluminum angle.
There is no load while sway bar is pinned up, I use zip ties for years before I did this.
I run Timbrens on my front axle.
They work great for strait hits like going fast play in the desert or even hitting speed bumps or dips faster than normal.
The axle bump stops rarely come into play while articulating at slow speeds, coil bump stops are for that.
You can start reading my bumpstop journey at around page #36 of my build thread.
Front Timbrens is page #46
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I had Phil's disconnect brackets on my 80. On an offroad trip a couple of years ago I started hearing nasty noises and on parking and getting under the vehicle, the hitchpin thing had gone missing, so that one side of the swaybar was no longer retained on the axle and was just banging up/down on various bumps. I hadn't disconnected since it was just a dirt track, no articulation stuff. I would not trust that hitchpin clip thing in that application, maybe it works fine most of the time, but in my case it went awol.
Anyhow, the expedient solution was to remove the sway bar in its entirety for the rest of the trip. It has since lived at the side of my house waiting for when I get enough motivation to take it to the dumpster at the office.
I run kings remotes with the adjusters and find I can easily set them to what I consider a decent road setting that provides reasonable swaybar like handling. I also run kings hydraulic bumps in the coils. My son use to work at kings, so price for the shiny stuff was quite 'reasonable'.
cheers,
george.
Anyhow, the expedient solution was to remove the sway bar in its entirety for the rest of the trip. It has since lived at the side of my house waiting for when I get enough motivation to take it to the dumpster at the office.
I run kings remotes with the adjusters and find I can easily set them to what I consider a decent road setting that provides reasonable swaybar like handling. I also run kings hydraulic bumps in the coils. My son use to work at kings, so price for the shiny stuff was quite 'reasonable'.
cheers,
george.
Gw nugget with another great nugget idea. Did I miss the diy sway bar disconnect in your thread?You have several options...
I made one out of aluminum angle.
There is no load while sway bar is pinned up, I use zip ties for years before I did this.
I run Timbrens on my front axle.
They work great for strait hits like going fast play in the desert or even hitting speed bumps or dips faster than normal.
The axle bump stops rarely come into play while articulating at slow speeds, coil bump stops are for that.
You can start reading my bumpstop journey at around page #36 of my build thread.
Front Timbrens is page #46
You will find all kinds of "Nuggets" in my thread including the pass hard brake line one bolt slide over mod to prevent catastrophic brake line damage from a broken stock sway bar mount.