Front Axle rebuild - driver's side axle won't go back in

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B

BananaQuaalude

Joined
Sep 5, 2006
Threads
13
Messages
33
Location
Boulder, CO
Help!

I'm following Romer's FAQ on the front axle rebuild. Going smoothly, albeit slowly, until I tried to install the long axle on the driver's side. I just can't get it to go back in.

I get it just inside the knuckle and it won't go any more. The front differential is locked in 4 high. I spent 2 hours trying to turn it slowly, jacking up that side of the truck, even finished putting the passenger side back together with wheel on, thinking that might change the angle and let it slide in.

Still no go. Is there a trick to this step? I'm probably the least mechanically inclined person on the forum to perform this rebuild, but I've made it this far.

Romer's write up says be patient, but I'm obviously doing something wrong.
 
Does your 80 have factory lockers? If so did you lock them before removing? I know your supposed to lock them prior to removal.
 
The weight of the axle makes it hard to position it into the exact spot when you are reinstalling. Without damaging the axle seal, you need to apply slight leverage to get the end of the axle to raise slightly. You also have to make sure it is oriented correctly laterally at the same time. It will go in, just be patient and be careful of the axle seal.
 
chitown40 said:
The weight of the axle makes it hard to position it into the exact spot when you are reinstalling. Without damaging the axle seal, you need to apply slight leverage to get the end of the axle to raise slightly. You also have to make sure it is oriented correctly laterally at the same time. It will go in, just be patient and be careful of the axle seal.
Click to expand...

x2. I rebuilt the front end and then 6 months blew up a birf in Moab, so I rebuilt again. The first time everything went in very easily. Second time around I couldn't get the passenger side axle in. After 2 HOURS of messing with it, the axle finally slid in. I don't understand why it was so difficult the second time around for the axle to slide into position but it was. My guess would be to keep trying, it just needs to line up perfectly before it slides into position.
 
BananaQuaalude said:
Still no go. Is there a trick to this step?
Click to expand...

Yes, there is a trick to this step. First, remove the axle and inspect the inner axle seal carefully. I just want you to be confident that the seal is undamaged from prior attempts and the small round metal spring has not popped out of the seal. It is about 2" in diameter and should be inside the inner axle tube seal.

Next, as you are inspecting the seal you will see an indexing ring about 4" past the inner axle tube seal. This ring is what you will use as a fulcrum to move the long side of the axle up as you press down on the birfield side of the axle. If you do not see that indexing ring then STOP and let us know. There has been 1 or 2 times where this indexing ring was dislodged during prior axle installation steps.

Again, you want to be careful that you don't damage the inner axle tube seal. There are also flat spots on the top and bottom of the birfield that need to be horizontal as you work the axle in.

It helps if you will visualize what you need to do before you start poking around and shoving the axle in and out.

Good luck, you'll get it.
-B-
 
The best trick for me has always been to rotate the driveshaft a bit as you attempt to slide in the axle. It usually lets it slip right in.

With the crappy factory lockers, if you don't lock the locker before pulling the axle, It can make it pretty difficult to reassemble.
 
Thank you for all the replies.

I just realized that I only locked the center differential. Mainly because that's the only locking diff I have! :doh:

So I guess it will be harder to get the axle to line up in general. However, the index ring is still there. I checked it by looking into the tube when cleaning out that side. It's in place, and I can feel it guiding the axle when pushed in.

Also, one of the last things I did tonight was check the inner axle seal. I am definitely wary of damaging it since I already bent one while putting it in and had to run to the dealership to get another one (which they inexplicably GAVE me. I think they somehow respect people who work on their own cruisers. only $8, but still!).

So the index ring is okay, the inner axle seal is not damaged right now.
 
Tomorrow I will inspect the inner axle seal again to make sure the metal ring is not damaged.

Then I'll try to position the axle so it tilts slighly upward and work it from there.

Thanks again for the replies--I'll let everyone know how it goes.
 
Having just finished this myself - I did the drivers side first so the other axle was still on the floor so I could see into the axle tube from the passenger side.

Have a helper shine a flashlight into the axle tube (passenger side since you can only do this from one side) helping you align the axle into the splines - my wife helped me with this and it worked swimmingly!

Good luck!
 
Hey- sorry for the delay. Didn't get back to this project until last night.

Pushing the axle in until it stopped and then pushing down to slighly angle the shaft up and turning slowly worked. Took about 2 minutes to get it in. Not sure how all the angling I did on Sunday didn't find the mark, but it's in now!

I also inspected the oil seal and it was not damaged, no metal ring popping out anywhere. The inner axle ring that guides the axle is still in place as well.

Thanks to everyone for the help!

That's the beauty of this site--you can't ask a question someone doesn't know the answer to!
 
Good to hear. Thanks for coming back and letting us know the status of your project.
-B-
 
I know he's done with his project now, but just want to echo the rotating the driveline a bit. Had the same scenerio a coupel weeks ago with mine. I could feel it start to enter then it came to a hard stop, wouldn't go any further. tried it over and over and wouldn't go past that point. Rotated driveline slightly and plop, right in.
 
I had the same problem and the same solution. The axle seal looked good, but about a year or so later it leaked and we did the whole thing all over again.

In hindsight, I would have replaced that seal again after the hours for trying to get the birf back in.

But, you won't have that problem, yours will be tight and right. I truely hope that is the case.

Keep the Cruiser Faith,

R.
 
Next, as you are inspecting the seal you will see an indexing ring about 4" past the inner axle tube seal. This ring is what you will use as a fulcrum to move the long side of the axle up as you press down on the birfield side of the axle. If you do not see that indexing ring then STOP and let us know. There has been 1 or 2 times where this indexing ring was dislodged during prior axle installation steps.
Click to expand...

I busted a birfield Saturday. When I pulled the birf and axle I found a loose ring inside the housing just inside the inner axle seal. I would describe it as like a thrust washer for a wheel bearing. I also found a thin wire snap ring. Again, inside the housing. Similar to the ring on the inner axle that slips into the birfield, but it's not that one because the axle came out with the star still secured on the end. (the bell came out with a busted cage) I fished the thin ring out but the thicker "washer" seemed to big for the inner axle seal hole. I couldn't get the damaged inner axle seal (a beefy Marlin variety) out with the knuckle in place but didn't want to remove the knuckle for better leverage.

The best guess was these unexpected "parts" were part of the E-locker but I hadn't thought about the axle housing indexing ring coming loose.

My '93 FSM doesn't include an e-locker diagram and I've never seen this loose ring during previous R&Rs. And then there is that thin snap ring. ????

Thanks,

FWIW, after pulling the busted birf and axle I removed the drive plate on the opposite side and pulled the front drive shaft. I didn't want to spin the diff with possible loose bits in the axle housing. Drove the trail and highway home in Fulltime 2WD. Glad I added the center diff lock switch for locked high range.
 
Hi Jim!
I don't know what that "thin wire snap ring" could be. There is a thin spring inside an OEM inner axle tube seal but maybe something different in the Marlin axle seal. Dunno.

The indexing ring is on the long side axle tube and if it is dislodged you will have a problem in trying to repair it. Look back through the 80-Section posts a few years ago. Riley and Semlin had the same problem and came up with several ingenious ideas and suggestions from forum members. They "fixed" it somehow but it has been too long ago and I cannot remember how. Let me know if you need assistance with the search and I will be happy to find the thread for you.

You may want to start a new thread with this one. Your issue will be lost with the OP's and you may get better responses with a new thread.

Good Luck and keep us posted!
-B-
 
yup, the index ring on mine came loose when i broke a birfield. I am assuming the axle was flailing around in there once the birf broke. it sure sounds like that is your problem pismo. if it is you won't be able to get the axle back in.

to reseat it I first fished it with two pieces of bent wire more or less into place. then I pressed it firmly in place with a custom $5 SST. see post 56 of this thread for a description. the photo i posted is long gone. if you want a better description post up and I will try.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/7689-sos-birfield-job-long-axle-side.html
 
Thanks guys. It's starting to make more sense now.

I appreciate the links to the previous thread. I guess my search skills are lacking. Too bad the pictures have disappeared but I think I've got the idea.

:cheers:
 
pismojim said:
Too bad the pictures have disappeared but I think I've got the idea.
Click to expand...

That thread is about 5 years old. I'm to the point where I can barely remember a phone number for 30 seconds and get my kids names mixed up all the time. Losing the pictures is disappointing but I think all pics were lost on one of the Forum upgrades a few years ago.

Keep us posted Jim!
-B-
 
UPDATE: The new birfield came in last week and it is installed. The dislodged guide ring had slid into the diff but I was able to fish it out with a magnet on a long wire. Pulled the ring into position with my fingers, managed to get a slide hammer through the ring and give it a couple firm raps. It seemed to set well enough. No need to pull the diff.

Apparently it did its job as I got the axle in.

Everything is good except I picked up an ABS sensor problem. Not too worried about that at the moment.

FWIW, if I was doing a field repair I think I could forgo the slide hammer and just pull the ring into place well enough with my two fingers.

Almost forgot, the thin snap ring had to be part of the mangled Marlin axle seal.
 
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