Front 80 series DC Drive shaft from Tom woods

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For you 80 owners getting some vibes in the front, I just ordered a Double Cardon Front drive shaft from Tom Woods Drive shaft. They use .120 wall tubing for there shafts and 1310 u-joints. It was $394 total shipped to my door. $389 for the DC dshaft and $5 packaging fee. Free shipping to lower 48 states. Troy was real patient and explained all the measurements i needed.

I looked at Slee's DC dshaft and it is $479 plus shipping. Called em, but they were at Cruise Moab. Lucky bastards. There d shaft is .095 thick.

I also checked out J E Reel Driveshafts and they said i was looking around $650 and suggested i call Slee.


I figure for the price of the Tom Wood's DC d shaft it was worth a try.. has anyone bought a dshaft from them? I know they have been around forever.

Once i get it in and installed i will let you guys know if it cured my vibes.
 

fjfar80

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Let me know how this works...I have a slight (variable) shimmy...can't figure out if it is from the lift...or from the crappy roads we have in Memphis. I didn't think the OME Heavy lifted me high enough to cause these sorts of issues...oh well...time will tell...

- Mark
 
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That Tom... he is top notch too.

If you wanna be cheap then go grab a taco dc shaft on the cheap and then have it retubed into your front... it's by far the MUCH cheaper soultion since you can pick those shafts up cheap and it's the same dc.
 

wngrog

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I have bought Ujoints from them for years.

What are you doing to attach the 1310 joints to the Toyota flange? Will it be a 1310 CV on one end and Toyota joint on the other?

Also, not that it will matter on the front of your rig, but 1310 joints are no where near as strong as Toyota joints in my opinion.
 
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I have a yota DC Dshaft that I thought about using. To shorten it, which is what I did to it for the zuk, was around $75. To lengthen it was around $400. This was the prices the local shops were quoting. So for that much, I might as well go to a dshaft "specialist". If my vibes are coming from the dshaft then I have faith that the Tom woods dshaft should cure it. I didn't want to bring another issue in ( unbalanced or poorly made dshaft into the equation. If this doesn't fix it the I am having pinion issues:mad: . Or the longs can't handle daily driving. I am pretty sure it's stock non DC dshaft though. Noticed vibes after installed 2in spacers in front.
 

wngrog

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great idea ?!?!

try to remember to hit upload next time, genius. :p

Tom wood"s ask for flange measurements, so they should come with everything to just bolt up.

Show me where it said that anywhere other than here. You said nothing about flanges. Usually those flanges sell for $100 each so you really, really got a hell of a deal.
 

Clutchee

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Lenny great deal, I remember on Ash's when it blew up at Hot Springs last year the local drive line shop quoted me like 400 for just the DC end...... he happened to have a good used one in the back which he gave me & just charged labor & balancing.
 
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I have Tom Woods shafts in my 60 and the rear one has taken a beating, I have a few candy cane like gouges in the the metal and put the weight of the wagon onto it a few times. Mine also have 1310 joints and a Toyota pattern flange. I saw the flange in a local driveshaft shops catalog a few years ago, it looked like they could hook a driveshaft to any combination of drivetrain. Tom woods will also repair your shafts if you send them back, and it was cheaper than paying the local shop to fix it.
 
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Show me where it said that anywhere other than here. You said nothing about flanges. Usually those flanges sell for $100 each so you really, really got a hell of a deal.


You had me second guessing myself, so i just called to verify my order and it is flange to flange DC drive shaft with 1310 ujoints.

Troy at Tom Wood's said the OEM toyota u-joints have a smaller body, but a bigger cap end than the 1310 u -joints. I will verify this when it comes in.
 
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I have Tom Woods shafts in my 60 and the rear one has taken a beating, I have a few candy cane like gouges in the the metal and put the weight of the wagon onto it a few times. Mine also have 1310 joints and a Toyota pattern flange. I saw the flange in a local driveshaft shops catalog a few years ago, it looked like they could hook a driveshaft to any combination of drivetrain. Tom woods will also repair your shafts if you send them back, and it was cheaper than paying the local shop to fix it.

Appreciate the feed back. The 60 is a heavy sumbich to rest on a dshaft. What size tires are under it?
 
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Appreciate the feed back. The 60 is a heavy sumbich to rest on a dshaft. What size tires are under it?


Its sitting on 37 MTR's would like to go to 38.5 Boggers, if I had the money. I've got pics of it in my profile. A few CLC guys have wheeled with me, and few could vouch for beating (or beating it against:grinpimp:) a few obstacles at GreyRock.
 
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Its sitting on 37 MTR's would like to go to 38.5 Boggers, if I had the money. I've got pics of it in my profile. A few CLC guys have wheeled with me, and few could vouch for beating (or beating it against:grinpimp:) a few obstacles at GreyRock.

Well thats a testament to the strength of the tom woods d shaft. full weight and 37s :eek:
 
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I did receive the Tom Wood's Drivesahft today and managed to install it as well :D

Differences in DC d shaft vs stock d shaft:
The flanges are thicker on the DC d shaft vs the stock toyota shaft. this does pose i slight mounting issue.
The u - joint caps of the DC d shaft are slightly smaller that the stock d shaft.

The Body of the u joint of the DC d shaft is beefier than the stock d shaft.

Should not bind with better flex angles of the DC shaft vs the stock shaft.


Installing the DC shaft
first the Double Cardon is a pain to mount to the tcase flange because there is little clearance for sockets to fit to bolt to flange. You have to raise the pinion side of the dshat as high as you can and twist the dshaft and turn the tcase flange (tcase is in neutral) in order to get a socket on there. :mad: PITA ! Make sure you mount the tcase side first! Since the Flange is thicker you may need to not use locknut in order to screw nut far enough to securely mount DC dshaft. I elected to try to use locknuts and I am comfortable with how far the nut is threaded on bolt.

mounting the d shaft to the pinion flange, i elected not to use the locknuts because the stock bolts are too short. I decided to use blue ( medium strength) locktite instead of the locknuts. We will see how this works.

Test Drive
Well my vibes are about 90% gone from 0-75 mph then come back around 80. It is most noticeable when you take your foot off accelerator. At 80-85 the vibes come back but they are not nearly as bad as when the stock drive shaft was installed.

I will post some pics a little later.
 
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Here is a pic of the d shafts side by side.
1.jpg
 

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