Friends 100 Series possibly for sale (1 Viewer)

gregnash

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So a neighbor and friend in my old neighborhood contacted me last night about selling their beloved 100. Its a white 99 like mine, all stock, needs tires and recently had TB/WP done at 220k (I believe from convo none to long ago) and shocks replaced.
Currently sitting at 237k. This has been PURELY a mall crawler and kid hauler. Now that her kids are teens with their own vehicles she is looking to upgrade. Has owned it for past 14yrs and has been all over with it.
Reason for potential sale is that she is looking at something newer and possibly smaller but is somewhat torn about getting rid of it. She asked me to reach out to the group to see if anyone may be interested.

Edit: She is going to get some pics and send them to me. Truck was also fully detailed this week.
Asking price is $12k (which seems about right with everything I have seen on CL, FB Marketplace, etc.)
 
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rusty_tlc

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I will let you drive mine around and you can see as it is basically the same thing.
Not really, the 100 is as capable as the 80 for most situations, the exception is it is tougher to go beyond a 33" tire with the 100.
The 100 offers a huge improvement in on-highway comfort and is just as capable as the 80 in almost every off-road situation as the 80. I have run many miles side by side with 80's, about the only place I would swap my 100 for an 80 is on a trail like the Rubicon.
On highway the ride and comfort of the 100 is light years beyond the 80, plus a V8 with the same MPG as the 80 in line 6. My 100 will blow any 80 off the road, not that I am into that. ;)
 

gregnash

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Not really, the 100 is as capable as the 80 for most situations, the exception is it is tougher to go beyond a 33" tire with the 100.
The 100 offers a huge improvement in on-highway comfort and is just as capable as the 80 in almost every off-road situation as the 80. I have run many miles side by side with 80's, about the only place I would swap my 100 for an 80 is on a trail like the Rubicon.
On highway the ride and comfort of the 100 is light years beyond the 80, plus a V8 with the same MPG as the 80 in line 6. My 100 will blow any 80 off the road, not that I am into that. ;)
Yeah the main caveat that I am finding is that once you go above 33s you are looking at more than 1.5"-2" of lift which then requires a diff drop kit and new UCAs up front to give the extra reach for the new height... I have seen some guys get around it with the 1.5" lift by doing the diff drop and running 305s or 315s and not necessarily running into issues with the UCAs. Diff drop is more to save wear on the axles (which I need to do and will be in the future).

I think that Justin (@justintpryor ) and his family have a couple 100s and 80s so they could give a side by side comparison.
 
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Luckily a diff drop and UCAs aren't that expensive. Pound out the pinch weld up front and you're good to go with 35s. I'm a short time 100 owner but I did consider the 80 and 100 before buying. I would agree that the 100 is by far a better vehicle for almost any situation. The 80 does have a more beefy 90s look to it with the fender flares, but it's older (so more things to update), less comfortable, underpowered, and less creature comforts.
 
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Yeah the main caveat that I am finding is that once you go above 33s you are looking at more than 1.5"-2" of lift which then requires a diff drop kit and new UCAs up front to give the extra reach for the new height... I have seen some guys get around it with the 1.5" lift by doing the diff drop and running 305s or 315s and not necessarily running into issues with the UCAs. Diff drop is more to save wear on the axles (which I need to do and will be in the future).

I think that Justin (@justintpryor ) and his family have a couple 100s and 80s so they could give a side by side comparison.

It all comes down to what you want and what you do. The 80 will always be the better wheeler, easier to repair and in my experience more reliable.
 

DesertLake

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I'm not sure how the parts costs compare, but if I were buying a 100 to wheel like I have the 80, I'd be refreshing/rebuilding all the same stuff. All the rubber. All the seals that matter.

How's the 100's range on a mixed highway / gravel road / challenging trail type trip?

My 2019 trips in the 80, either the regions west or northeast of Black Rock, loaded down and with roof rack, tended run about 8mpg average. That puts my onboard tank range at about 200 miles - not good in Nevada. The 45mph gravel roads were pretty good, but the 80mph highway and 10mph trails killed it, and you do all 3 just hopping from mountain range to mountain range. I'm lifted a couple inches on 33s, but on those trips we didn't go anywhere my buddy's unmodified 200 couldn't go. And I was into my gas cans long before he was.

There are plenty places I've been that I wouldn't take that 200, and I enjoy the hell out of the 80 the way I built it. But if I were in the market right now, knowing where I like to go, I'd be looking at overall cost to get me to the reliability level and to the range I want before worrying about clearance and wheel size and armor.
 
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gregnash

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Justin is definitely right in it all comes down to what you want and what you plan to do. Tony was expressing interest in the 80 as a strictly overlanding rig. With that being said, I would see it being his main rig on the runs that we have done as of this last year since I have had the 100 and not had issues (e.g. Jumbo, Hunter Lake). Most "advanced" type terrain would likely be left to the 40 when he gets it done.

For me, I get about an average of 12-13mpg with a large majority of it being stop and go traffic for short distances here in Carson. But that calculation is a bit off as it is just simply based on the mileage calculation between fill-ups (using Fuelly). Now that I have the ScanGauge II installed I can get real-time readings as I drive around. Most around town stuff is pretty spot on with Fuelly, avg about 10-12mpg. The few highway trips I have taken with it thus far since getting the ScanGauge has been anywhere from 17-21mpg (21 was downhill from Spooner to Carson at about 60mph), with highway speeds being around 70-75mph (I don't speed all the much, maybe 10 over if I am in a hurry).

This spring/summer/fall I plan to take some longer trips with the truck full of gear with a mtb sitting on a hitch rack so the mileage will likely decrease some. But the one good thing is that this thing does come stock with a 25 gallon tank so with my normal driving I can usually go for about 2wks before I need to fill up.

Again mind you, all of this is on a relatively stock truck. She only has sliders, 1.5" OME lift and e-rated 285/75R16s. Eventually when I put a true rack on top and have something like a Dissent No Cut rear bumper with swing out that stuff will go down. Oh and I will likely ditch the 16" stock rims for something a little more to my liking when the time comes for new tires. But that is still a few years off.

To answer Will's question a bit... The cost comparison on parts really isn't that much different. I mean some of the stuff that I was still able to get OEM/OE for the 60 was as expensive if not slightly more than things I have bought for the 100 (e.g. Fan Clutch). Finding deal sites like www.partsouq.com has saved me a bunch of money on OE parts and even Ryan was surprised at the price of the parts there. Coming from the EU, I have gotten parts from them faster than stuff here in the states. But then again we also have companies/guys like Trail Tailor, Valley Hybrid, Wits' End and Cruiser Outfitters that are a state over and wouldn't be out of the ordinary for us to jump in the truck and take a long weekend driving adventure to go grab stuff.

I plan to pick up one of Jason's (Trail Tailor) diff drop and sway bar end link kits when I get the chance. Diff drop is really just needed to correct axle angles to decrease out of phase wear on the inner tulip.

So @Tony_Farson my offer still stands. Let me know if you wanna take Alita out for a run or if you want to test her offroad (can do a quick jumbo grade run over to VC) to try it out. Last time I did this for friends, they ended up having a buyer within a couple days of throwing it on craigslist.
 

airon23

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Speaking of 80 series, I stumbled into one for pretty cheap $1k that I bought. But it needs a LOT of work, but I hope to eventually get it running and driving. I posted a bunch of pictures in the 80 series forum if you care to see them from my signature line.

If anyone has left over 80 series stuff they're willing to get rid of let me know.

The 100 series seems like it would be a good amount nicer especially on freeway drives.
 
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Speaking of 80 series, I stumbled into one for pretty cheap $1k that I bought. But it needs a LOT of work, but I hope to eventually get it running and driving. I posted a bunch of pictures in the 80 series forum if you care to see them from my signature line.

If anyone has left over 80 series stuff they're willing to get rid of let me know.

The 100 series seems like it would be a good amount nicer especially on freeway drives.
Nice! Definitely worth the 1k you paid for it.

Since the 3fe is toast, I would swap it. And I wouldn't swap it for another 3fe, especially if you don't need this up and driving asap.
 

airon23

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Is there any worry about emissions or am I just registering as classic vehicle at that point.
Thoughts on what sort of swaps I should best consider that would fit nicely and mate to transmission?
 

Tony_Farson

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Is there any worry about emissions or am I just registering as classic vehicle at that point.
Thoughts on what sort of swaps I should best consider that would fit nicely and mate to transmission?

Depends on your budget (mostly) and what you want for the build. Advance Adapters makes kits for the following engines...

1612366961160.png


The juice isn't worth the squeeze on any of those in my opinion.

Easy route, just rebuild/upgrade what's there. Or an H55 would wake that 3FE up for sure, but if your heart is set on an automatic, then that is out. You could swap a 1HZ-T into it.

I like the Cummins R2.8, but $$$. It opens up new options for transmissions...

1612367191721.png


Most of those will bolt up to the Toyota Transfer Case with an adapter from Advance Adapters too.

If I manage to pull off my Sooie project :)pig:🐖) it will have an 80 Series chassis and running gear, but with an R.28 under the hood.
 

gregnash

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Common swap that will have lots of documentation would be swapping in an SBC or LS engine. I would recommend the LS if you aren't going to keep it "Toyota purist" as that will give you the best bang for the buck. Look up BDTurnkey as he is local (believe he is in south reno or washoe valley) as a potential supplier for the LS. You would have to talk with someone in Washoe DMV about registration, but easiest way to avoid having to register and smog is to do so outside of Washoe/Clark Counties.
 

Tony_Farson

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Common swap that will have lots of documentation would be swapping in an SBC or LS engine. I would recommend the LS if you aren't going to keep it "Toyota purist" as that will give you the best bang for the buck. Look up BDTurnkey as he is local (believe he is in south reno or washoe valley) as a potential supplier for the LS. You would have to talk with someone in Washoe DMV about registration, but easiest way to avoid having to register and smog is to do so outside of Washoe/Clark Counties.

There's also https://lsswap.parts

Their kits are unique in that you do not need the factory harness, ECU, or gauges, or radio. They build a standalone engine controller that still accepts tunes and bolt-on mods like the factory engines. You can literally start them on the shipping pallet. I was eyeballing their LV3 V6 for only about $3K. Those are capable of 25MPG so great platform for an overland rig especially if you do Long Range America tanks!

EDIT: The LV3 has the same transmission options as the LS so this list applies to them as well. Which means the transmissions can be adapted to the 4:1 80 Series transfer cases.
1612458806370.png


 
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rusty_tlc

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When I had my 60 I researched swaps and at that time you could only swap in an engine that the vehicle was originally offered with.
That may be old information. Definitely worth making a call to DMV before you invest to much time in research though.
 

Tony_Farson

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When I had my 60 I researched swaps and at that time you could only swap in an engine that the vehicle was originally offered with.
That may be old information. Definitely worth making a call to DMV before you invest to much time in research though.

I agree with Dan, do your own research and I'd recommend stopping by the shack (vehicle inspection and VIN validation) to ask questions too. Two of the guys who work the shack in Reno are Land Cruiser lovers and pretty much rubber stamped my initial registration in 2018. One of them even said he'd recertify my 68 FJ40 as a 67 if I wanted to in the future since it was manufactured in 67. I might do that so I don't have a mileage cap.

My experience and info tells me that it doesn't matter in Carson (hence my plan to move there in 2023!), but in the rules in the greater Reno area a standard vehicle registration has to pass smog standards for that model year vehicle. Classic Vehicle plate requires factory parts and a Classic Rod plate allows for any modification you want. Both have programs have 5K/yr mileage caps if you want to avoid smog and remain in the program. I have two vehicles in these programs. The Bronco is registered as a Classic Vehicle and the FJ40 as a Classic Rod and as long as your paperwork is in order and there are no discrepancies on the odometer readings you reports (latest report is less than last year's report for instance), then they just stamp it and hand me my tags.
 

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