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Freeze Plug issues?

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by teerexfzj80, Aug 25, 2006.

  1. teerexfzj80

    teerexfzj80

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    After some overheating and possible vapor lock issues over the past several weekends, today I was taking my 70 FJ40 over to the dealer for some more checks. I was a block from the local Toyota shop when I heard a pop and smelled and saw coolant. I took it the remaining block to the dealer and good news is I was still only about 1/2 way on the temp gauge. (Would have stopped if it started going on up.)

    I got the call from them saying they think it is one of the freeze / pressure plugs that blew out. They say possibly as much as $2000 to fix it, but they have not gotten into it to see yet.

    The motor was rebuilt by the PO and I do not have much history on it other than it has less than 5K miles on it. PO is not around anymore to get in touch with on who did the work.

    Anybody have experience with this...How much to realistically expect to have to pay? Any options other than the dealer? Other things to look for in addition to the heater hoses for the cab heater / rear heater?

    Searched and found these 2 comments:
    1. I am pretty sure you gotta pull the flywheel to get to it.
    first check the hoses to eliminate the easy fix then if it's still leaking you goyya pull the trans/transfer, CLUTCH. / flywheel and bell housing. like I said it's a bitch.
    2. You can replace that hose over the top for a quick fix, if I remember right there are some hard lines behing the block. I have drilled a hole in the firewall on a 40 series before to replace the freeze plug on the block.

    I appreciate anything any of you guys can add. I am learning every time I search but am also running into more work than I have the skills and definitely the funds right now to complete.
     
  2. Degnol

    Degnol

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    There should be no freeze plug covered by the bellhousing, but there is one at the firewall side of the block and one on the firewall side of the head. The only plugs under the bellhousing are the main oil galley plug and the cam plug.
    I think there was a thread about replacing that particular freeze plug on the back of the block. Could you use an expanding plug?

    GL

    Ed



    From Wikipedia....
    "Freeze/core plugs can often be a source of troublesome leaks as a result of internal cooling system corrosion. Ease of replacement depends on accessibility. In many cases the plug area will be difficult to reach and using a mallet to perform maintenance or replacement will be nearly impossible without special facilities. Expanding rubber plugs are available as replacements when access is a problem."
    Swapin'motors 016.jpg Swapin'motors 005.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2006
  3. teerexfzj80

    teerexfzj80

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    Expansion Plug Popped Out

    Yep, It Is One Of Those Pesky 2 Between The Back End Of The Engine And The Firewall.

    Any More Info On The Expanding Rubber Plugs?
     
  4. Degnol

    Degnol

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    I've never used one, but IDave here on MUD has. You might PM him and see what he bought.

    GL

    Ed
     
  5. Fast Eddy

    Fast Eddy

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    You want to figure out why it popped out in the first place before you drop $2k :confused: to fix the plug. There have been some threads about the back part of a 2f getting full of rust and crap and not cooling properly.

    If you're going to pull the motor, you might as well do a clutch...

    I don't think the dealer is the right place to have working on a simple 36 year old vehicle. I pay them $100/hr to work on stuff I can't, which is less and less.
     
  6. YODA 88 62

    YODA 88 62

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    if the plug in the first pic blew, then it may be on the road you were driving on. the plug may still be in ther though.

    if the plug in the second pic blew, then your clutch should have been slipping.
     
  7. Mark W

    Mark W

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    $2000 to replace a freeeze plug in a 1970 FJ40?!?!?!?

    I don't care if it is the one on the back... You can yank that motor out, replace the plug and through it back in with one hand and half your brain tied behind you back.

    That's absurd. I could knock 3 or 4 of those out in a day. What sort of hourly labor charges are they quoting you? How long do they say it will take them?


    Mark...
     
  8. teerexfzj80

    teerexfzj80

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    PMed IDave...

    Thanks for all the comments, I have the desire to tear into it, but lack skill and time right now. It is definitely the plug on the block between teh firewall.

    I have been having increasing difficulty with full temp vapor locking since the middle of the summer. It has had the dieseling issue after shut off and backfiring after it is up to full temp and at shut off. I was taking it in for the carb rebuild, dizzie check and coil check to knock out some possibilities when I heard it pop. Mechanic said about an hour to check and diagnose the systems before we knew it was the plug and thought it was a hose (possibly the heater hose in back). After he saw the plug but before geting into it he said worst case was warped head and an engine rebuild. Talked to a couple of buddies and it may be the center of attention for a wrenching weekend...which may lead to a whole new list of mods.
     
  9. Degnol

    Degnol

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    George, IDave had the day off and is Sturgeon fishing. But he will answer your PM.

    BTW, I happen to have the tranny hump off and took a pic for you. The bottom of the freeze plug (on the block, not the head) is just at the bottom of the firewall sheetmetal. That might give you enough access to install one of the expanding rubber plugs, but that's about it. No reall access to install a metal one. You might be able to drop the motor/T/TC down enough to gain access:confused:


    Ed
    freezeplugs.jpg
     
  10. teerexfzj80

    teerexfzj80

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    Thanks for the pic. I was thinking of drilling a hole in the firewall to access the plug after removing the heater and the tranny cover. Then getting a spring loaded pop in plate to replace in teh hole after I'm done. Already got the drill bit and cordless to do at the dealer lot in their backyard.
     
  11. bigbrowndog

    bigbrowndog

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    Why not put a stainless steel plug in next time?
     
  12. toyman317

    toyman317

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    In post #2, pic #2, I need to replace the plug at the 2 oclock position. It leaks oil. What is the best way to get that one out. Can it be replaced with a screw in one or best to use stainless? Do you use some kind of sealant? Thanks.
     
  13. Doug_S

    Doug_S

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    The usual fix is to use a brass plug so rust is not an issue.
     
  14. bigbrowndog

    bigbrowndog

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    The stainless are more readily available here and work ok. Though there are more brass ones coming out of China and India now. cheers.
     
  15. grant5127

    grant5127

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    If your running a F motor? They have a different type plugs than the 2F, like the pics you have been shown.... the 1F are a concave type.. the holes in the block are not the same also... a common plug won't work....There a couple of 1Fs in my area that have hair line cracks extending from the plug holes & a new plug will pop out.... use JB Weld if you have this problem....
     
  16. teerexfzj80

    teerexfzj80

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    I went to the dealership and spoke to several of the mechanics there, 2 of which have their own 40's and we all came to thhe same conclusion...tow it home, do it myself and save a ton of $$$. The PO rebuild is definitely questionable...there was a flat 1 15/16 SAE plug in the hole...no lip on it at all! I got 2 Toyota freeze plugs and will be cutting a hole in the firewall to clean and replace the freeze plug. I will post pics as I do it. A buddy of mine down the street has been completely rebuilding his old J*#P J10 truck and just did his. Thanks for all the info.
     
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