Frame prep

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theoii

theoii

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Threads
53
Messages
224
Location
Medford OR
I am having the frame sandblasted just for convenience. I took the body off after I got a stripped body. But what to do after? Everything about frame prep is to protect and seal a rusty frame. This is going to be a daily driver so I am not doing a restoration just want to make the frame safe from future rust.
 
I found two places in Redding. One will pickup and deliver the other works weekend. The weekend one has a minimum $180 but will do everything he can do in that time. I am not what the charge will be for the pickup guy but he is trying to get to my house to estimate the job. I will try to contact him on Monday.
 
theoii said:
I found two places in Redding. One will pickup and deliver the other works weekend. The weekend one has a minimum $180 but will do everything he can do in that time. I am not what the charge will be for the pickup guy but he is trying to get to my house to estimate the job. I will try to contact him on Monday.
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Let me know what you find out. My son had the body of his 442 blasted by a guy in millville and he did a pretty good job for a resonable price. Im going to try and see if he is still in business. He wet blasted but added a chemical to hold back the rust and it worked very well. It was 2 weeks before he could primer and it was still rust free (inside the garage).

Rod
 
I talked with the guy from Speedway and he says that the medium he uses will leave the metal such as it is less likely to rust as long as it is indoors. Might5 be the same thing He has been sick so he has not made it over to give me a quote.
 
bought a 90 lb tank blaster and some media,,
hooked her up to a 5hp eaton compressor,,,
took about 3 hours to get about 1/4 of the frame done,,,
waiting for more dry weather to blast it somemore,,,
but man it looks top shelf,,,
slopped a little rust bullet on with a brush just to get the feel of what it is gonna look like,,
baby oh baby,,,
 
turd said:
bought a 90 lb tank blaster and some media,,
hooked her up to a 5hp eaton compressor,,,
took about 3 hours to get about 1/4 of the frame done,,,
waiting for more dry weather to blast it somemore,,,
but man it looks top shelf,,,
slopped a little rust bullet on with a brush just to get the feel of what it is gonna look like,,
baby oh baby,,,
Click to expand...

Which Eaton compressor do you have? Do you like it?
I'm about to make a move and am leaning towards an Eaton.
 
i own 4,,,,of various sizes and elect configs,,
i used the 5hp in the shop for this job
they are built solid,,
they like hard use,,,
i have had issues with one pump,,
and one elect motor,,,
but they couldnt get the replacement to me fast enough,,,
their prices are fair and their service is good,,,
oh yeah and their price on air dryers is hard to beat...
 
theoii said:
I talked with the guy from Speedway and he says that the medium he uses will leave the metal such as it is less likely to rust as long as it is indoors. Might5 be the same thing He has been sick so he has not made it over to give me a quote.
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Hey Theoii did you ever get that quote? My son located the guy he used in Millville and he no longer blasts, not even as a side job.

Rod
 
Got a quote but it is a little vague. He said should be $200 - $250 but worst case is $300. I may have a lead on another local blaster. If not maybe I will look for a really good blaster I can purchase and find someone with a good compressor.
 
I had my frame rot thru so I replaced it with a JDM RT hand :bang: dipped/stripped, sandblasted, and hot dipped galvanized. The frame on my 70 rusted from the inside out. It is next to impossible to get any coating inside the frame, leaving raw exposed metal invites rust. Having the frame dipped coats the complete frame including all points of entry for water or road grime/ mud. The process cost me $300.00 for the galvanization, best and longest lasting process available.
My frame was so bad from the inside out a pocket knife could poke thru it, yet from the outside it looked good as it was undercoated, if you scraped off the undercoat it still had the original paint so the undercoat did its job just not from the inside.
My 2 cents, if you are going to the trouble to do a frame off galvanize it!

1985 BJ70, warn birfield relacement, 13BT, rear disc brakes, T100 double diaphram brake booster,.

Jim
 
Yes that would be a good way to go but... not always available in a persons area. The last time I looked into something like that was in the 80's and it was 250+ miles one way. Right now I couldn't get a frame there if I had to. Their price was resonable as you stated except for the problems transporting it back and forth.

Rod
 
Talked to the other guy and they are $75 per hour only thing is I got to load the frame up in a trailer drive it to work then take it over on my lunch hour. Oh well the pleasure of working on my 40.
 
It's back

I got my frame back and finally decided on Duplicolor rattle can and brush on for the box channel.

Here are my pictures so far:

Picasa Web Albums - theoii - landcruiser

It looks good with good flow into cracks and crevises (sp) :clap:
frame after a.webp
 
Hey Theoii, looks good. Sorry I didn't call last week. It was really crazy at work with a few long days. I'm going to be in town for the holiday weekend, maybe we can finally meet. Would love to get together with another Cruiser Head. I looked at your photo album and you have a lot of work ahead but it will be worth it!

Rod
 
theoii said:
I got my frame back and finally decided on Duplicolor rattle can and brush on for the box channel.

Here are my pictures so far:

Picasa Web Albums - theoii - landcruiser

It looks good with good flow into cracks and crevises (sp) :clap:
Click to expand...

That's looking good! Hell of a project you're taking on. Is it just plain old Duplicolor paint or some kind of rust preventative stuff?
 
For future people reading this...3M makes a wand that is made to go inside frames and hard to reach areas. It is ~ 3 ft. in length and sprays in a 360* pattern so you shove it in all the way and spray on the way out. It uses a storks gun for the material also. POR 15 would be best for this application for those not wanting to pay for sandblasted frame.

If you have already chosen to sandblast, I would not use POR15 since it is made for rusty metal only not for freshly clean metal. If that was the case, SEM rust incapable paint would be a better choice since it does not require a top coat, nor mixing. It comes premixed but you don't use a top coat in it. It is a semi flat paint.
 
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