monniepoo
Cruiser chick
I do
Where would I go to do that?
FJC 33" Tire Rub?
- Thread starter Spektrum
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Where would I go to do that?I have Pro Comp Xtreme 305/65R17's on stock mag wheels and they rub behind the front wheels a little. For street use I think the amount of, or lack of rub is tolerable. I have taken the FJ off-road a few times and driven it hard enough to dent up the skid plate and brake off 1 of said plates brackets. The front bumper sits a bit crooked too. All of this in done in the Oregon Dunes There is other damage since stock FJ's are rather flimsy. I'm not saying that a lift and shaved body mounts are not a good idea just that depending on where you intend to drive it may not be necessary.
I have to say that I second the 295/70/17 Toyo Open Country MTs. Very very nice tire and yes, very quite (on the road) for an MT tire. I have mine on a Revtek 3" lift and with an Ultra "Goliath" rim. Not sure what the exact backspacing is, but the guy at the shop said it was 1.5" more than stock. It clears my UCAs by about a half inch. I plan on a Warn winch and bumper and will go with a heavier coil over shock when I get that done. But for now, I don't see the need. So far, with only some light off road driving, I've seen only very slight rubbing. But on the plastic cover, not the mount. I'll keep an eye on it and keep you all up to date on how this combination goes. I'm gonna be doing some heavier wheeling Nov. 3rd.
fJ Tire Size & Rub Issues
I don't recommend you go above a P285R70-17 (33x10.50x17) tire without a 2.5-3.0" Lift. Anything wider will need new aftermarket rims with offset and some body trim. Typically, a 4WD shop will the take off the little plastic cover at back of wheel well and grind down the end of mount for running boards on frame then cap it with a flat plate. Another area they trim is the front inner plastic fender area if necessary by bumper. You can turn your wheels lock to lock and see where it might hit. Anything taller than a 33, you should probably look at a 6" lift and expect even more body trimming. I initially tried the Rancho quickLift, but ended up swapping over to the Sway Away suspension lift (2.5-3.0" Front & 2" Rear) to tune out the "FJ Lean" caused by gas tank, battery & spare tire position all to the left... Hope this helps. MG
I don't recommend you go above a P285R70-17 (33x10.50x17) tire without a 2.5-3.0" Lift. Anything wider will need new aftermarket rims with offset and some body trim. Typically, a 4WD shop will the take off the little plastic cover at back of wheel well and grind down the end of mount for running boards on frame then cap it with a flat plate. Another area they trim is the front inner plastic fender area if necessary by bumper. You can turn your wheels lock to lock and see where it might hit. Anything taller than a 33, you should probably look at a 6" lift and expect even more body trimming. I initially tried the Rancho quickLift, but ended up swapping over to the Sway Away suspension lift (2.5-3.0" Front & 2" Rear) to tune out the "FJ Lean" caused by gas tank, battery & spare tire position all to the left... Hope this helps. MG
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I replaced my tires with 295x70x17 Nitto Terra Grapplers...and no lift. Tires rubbed when at about 90% turn or when going into a driveway....no rubbing on normal highway driving except when doing full turn and it was from tire width passing that point of frame. Rubbed on right side slightly and on left side a good bit when turned just right.
Added ToyTec.com 3" lift with OME springs MED/MED and made a huge difference. No rub at all now and with the much stiffer spring rate the vehicle does not compress enough going into drives or in full turns at good speed to rub. It might if I am wheeling it hard but so far not a touch at all.....
After the suspension settles in some this weekend I will let you know if it changes....huge difference in look and handling and would highly recommend.
So at least on my 08 FJ....I can run full 33inch tires with 3" OME/TOYTEC lift and no body mount chopping. Will still chop to make sure there is no issue at full wheel articulation but does not have to be done this weekend.
As you see these are on two hills of 20% and 30% grade where I went down and over and around....no rubbing at all. More than hands width between tire and upper fender...almost two for rear...and a good 2 inches left on front tire with it compressed and sitting there with most of front weight on that tire.
So far no rubbing or anything with ToyTeck setup and 33s
Added ToyTec.com 3" lift with OME springs MED/MED and made a huge difference. No rub at all now and with the much stiffer spring rate the vehicle does not compress enough going into drives or in full turns at good speed to rub. It might if I am wheeling it hard but so far not a touch at all.....
After the suspension settles in some this weekend I will let you know if it changes....huge difference in look and handling and would highly recommend.
So at least on my 08 FJ....I can run full 33inch tires with 3" OME/TOYTEC lift and no body mount chopping. Will still chop to make sure there is no issue at full wheel articulation but does not have to be done this weekend.
As you see these are on two hills of 20% and 30% grade where I went down and over and around....no rubbing at all. More than hands width between tire and upper fender...almost two for rear...and a good 2 inches left on front tire with it compressed and sitting there with most of front weight on that tire.
So far no rubbing or anything with ToyTeck setup and 33s
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It's the total combination
For the folks who check this thread since it's still good info... If you are running the correct offset wheel (4.5" backspacing), at full wheel lock left or right, a 33" (285) tire will rub on the A pillar frame body mount. If not always depending on the tire, it will on articulation. Doing the frame mod is relatively simple and done properly, will be undetectable by the average person. Done properly, it will also give you room to stuff up to a 35" tire with minor scrubbing.
The OME lift will not give 3" of lift. It's actually 1.75" to 2". When you use OME, you have to make sure the spacer ring is put on the front left shock. Most people don't notice but your FJC will sit a bit crooked if you don't. The FJC is a couple hundred pounds heavier near that corner.
Yes, you can get 3" of lift from coilovers. Don't do it. If you go above 2.5", you place excessive strain on the upper ball joint that can lead to failure. If you want to crank it up to 3", use an after market upper control arm. You'll have little if no droop left in your suspension but you won't break a ball joint.
So if you run the correct back spacing and do the frame modification, you can wheel it hard and not damage the fender.
For the folks who check this thread since it's still good info... If you are running the correct offset wheel (4.5" backspacing), at full wheel lock left or right, a 33" (285) tire will rub on the A pillar frame body mount. If not always depending on the tire, it will on articulation. Doing the frame mod is relatively simple and done properly, will be undetectable by the average person. Done properly, it will also give you room to stuff up to a 35" tire with minor scrubbing.
The OME lift will not give 3" of lift. It's actually 1.75" to 2". When you use OME, you have to make sure the spacer ring is put on the front left shock. Most people don't notice but your FJC will sit a bit crooked if you don't. The FJC is a couple hundred pounds heavier near that corner.
Yes, you can get 3" of lift from coilovers. Don't do it. If you go above 2.5", you place excessive strain on the upper ball joint that can lead to failure. If you want to crank it up to 3", use an after market upper control arm. You'll have little if no droop left in your suspension but you won't break a ball joint.
So if you run the correct back spacing and do the frame modification, you can wheel it hard and not damage the fender.