FJ62 Hesitates, no power, rough idles at times

[3pits]

I am not sure what it is called but I think it is a fuel dampener?
I had a similar problem on my ford and it turned out to be a very small crack in the new distributor cap, as it got spinning the crack would open up.. now that I think about it I had a problem like that on my 40, it was a small piece of rust that as I accelerated would cover the fuel line, and restricted the flow of fuel,, just a shot good luck

 

[3pits]

another thought have you checked the o rings on the injectors, or the electrical connection at the battery from the fuel injectors, I have had a fuseable link end get corroded and nasty and give intermitant power to the injectors,,,,

 

[jpeg]

have you checked the cold start injector? it could be dirty and just in need of a good cleaning.

 

[cruiser88]

You can check psi before and after the filter....you will never check fuel pressure at the damper with the intake intact. But in order to check fuel pressure on a cruiser you do need special fittings.

 

[3pits]

ok Ive been thinking of this since last night, but ms ambien kept me from getting it out...

now I dont know much about a 62 (even though I have one) but what you are describing sounds like a timing issue more than anything, it sounds like your advance is off, my 62 is at the shop so I cannot verify any of this, and I do not know how it advances, but that is where I would look, not a fuel delivery issue

check my other post #42 also, dist cap, power to the injectors ie fusible link....

let us know

 

[acoen]

ok Ive been thinking of this since last night, but ms ambien kept me from getting it out...

now I dont know much about a 62 (even though I have one) but what you are describing sounds like a timing issue more than anything, it sounds like your advance is off, my 62 is at the shop so I cannot verify any of this, and I do not know how it advances, but that is where I would look, not a fuel delivery issue

check my other post #42 also, dist cap, power to the injectors ie fusible link....

let us know

3pits,

Thanks, I was thinking the same thing while driving it. Once I set the TPS correctly, it seems to idle waaaaay to fast. Vacuum test shows no vacuum leaks at all. But if timing is off, i could get no power out of this thing and this thing could really race at idle. I'm regrouping now in time for the weekend. I am going to add a fuel stablizer tonight, check all of my connections and grounds again, check cap and rotor and time the thing to factory specs. At least I will know everything is in check. The water in the tank was the big thing...I drained about 3/4 gallon, maybe a little less. Once I find out the issues I will let everyone know.

The biggest mistake I have made so far is not performing all of the checks initially. Check Timing, fuel condition, Fuel pressure and volume. Clean air filter and change fuel filter. tighten all grounds, clean cables...etc. (started doing this but got off track) Believe it or not I'm pretty good with a wrench and ohm/volt meter. I was hoping for a simple fix and didn't start with a good baseline. I will make sure I started with a good baseline then test some components again. Could be as simple as the timing. Will the type of gas cap make a difference on these things. Vented or non-vented. For some reason I think this one is non-vented....Which doesn't seem right at all.

 

[jgordon]

In reading the symptoms it sounds like it could be as basic as fuel starvation. Replace the fuel filter, check the fuel pickup from the tank, etc. etc. - I know on a 60 I'd say check the carb screen - is there anything on the engine itself that could inhibit flow?

These things are frustrating - you sound like you're keeping your wits as you go through it. Best of luck.

 

[ozwick]

I've heard on an older Harley , a blocked vented gas cap caused by the gasoline swelling the rubber gasket can block the vent hole. Thanks to the additives that are in the fuel nowadays.

 

[3pits]

I have always had a non vented gas cap.

 

[COSkier1]

acoen-
are you sure you adjusted the TPS correctly? Looking back at your previous posts, you said you used a manual from a pickup. This may give you false values. To adjust the 3FE TPS, you need a 0.77mm and a 1.09mm feeler gauges. Does sound close to what you used? It should idle around 8-900 rpm when cold, and 650 when warm.

 

[acoen]

I have always had a non vented gas cap.

Well, I messed with the gas cap, it is vented, but I think the vent sticks from time to time. I also re-adjusted the TPS to factory specs. Drove it around and she drove pretty good and had power to boot. A couple of stumbles here and there but it is getting better. I think the bad fuel is the culpret. I will let it sit now until the weekend so the majority of bad fuel will separate further and drain another gallon for inspeciton. If it looks good I will place the fuel stablizer in and drive the hell out of it. Wish me luck!

One question how do you adjust the shift points. There is a throttle valve cable, do I need to tighten it up or losen it up?

 

[billmc]

Well, I messed with the gas cap, it is vented, but I think the vent sticks from time to time. I also re-adjusted the TPS to factory specs. Drove it around and she drove pretty good and had power to boot. A couple of stumbles here and there but it is getting better. I think the bad fuel is the culpret. I will let it sit now until the weekend so the majority of bad fuel will separate further and drain another gallon for inspeciton. If it looks good I will place the fuel stablizer in and drive the hell out of it. Wish me luck!

One question how do you adjust the shift points. There is a throttle valve cable, do I need to tighten it up or losen it up?

Do a search on 'kickdown cable', you'll find good instructions. IMHO, adjusting the throttle cable to suit your tastes is probably the easiest, cheapest, and most effective way to make your truck get the most out of the 3FE.

 

[acoen]

Do a search on 'kickdown cable', you'll find good instructions. IMHO, adjusting the throttle cable to suit your tastes is probably the easiest, cheapest, and most effective way to make your truck get the most out of the 3FE.

Dang, I wish I knew that with my last FJ 62.....Thanks again guys.

 

[acoen]

Ok guys, I'm about ready to pull my freaking hair out. First this is a really nice rig....superb body and paint, great interior, absolutely rust free, new tires, exhaust...etc. I just cannot seem to get the damn thing to run right, (I don't think it is anything major) I thought I had it with bad fuel. Starts right up, runs pretty good, but as soon as it goes into closed loop. Misses, hesitates and sputters sometime almost losing power completely.

I thought grounds, fuel, spark, TPS, FPS, vacuum leaks....(egr was leaking made a gasket thought I beat it again but with no luck.) Darn thing fools me because it runs sooo good cold. When warm runs like crap! The maf seems good by the Chilton's test. Usually when a MAF goes out its done, same with fuel pump or coil. This is getting to be one of those problems that I need someone else to look at or step away from it for a couple weeks.

Secondly to add to my problems, I have no clock, no radio or power to my dome light. Who wired these damn things any way? A Lucas design...you know Prince of Darkness! Everything seems to work fine. I cleaned the fusible links, can't see that they would be the problem. I have power to my cigarette lighter, that is what is weird? The only power I have to the radio is the light and only half of the unit lights. Any ideas? I just purchase a Headunit from Cruiser Parts, nice original unit, I would blame that but I have no power to the unit....Can't blame them for that. I don't have power to the dome light as well. I think one is hot all of the time....When I test the hot lead I get continuity...But where is the damn line shorted?
Could this be my entire problem?

Could someone here scan a couple of things for me, from the FSM? One would be the body electrical that contains the schematic for the radio, cigarrette lighter and clock circuit...That would be a great help.

Man I need help, this thing is driving me nuts......! Thanks again for the help, everyone here has been wonderful....I just couldn't do anything right this weekend. AHHHHH! I'm making this too difficult I'm sure.

Thanks guys....

Aaron

 

[jpeg]

I have no clock, no radio or power to my dome light.

check your fuse box. the clock, radio and dome light all run off the same 7.5 fuse.

 

[ozwick]

acoen,

A coil could be bad even though it starts good cold. It could have a winding inside that is faulty. When the coil heats up inside, it could separate to cause the miss/rough running. Have you tried another computer?

ozwick

 

[billmc]

Secondly to add to my problems, I have no clock, no radio or power to my dome light. Who wired these damn things any way? A Lucas design...you know Prince of Darkness! Everything seems to work fine. I cleaned the fusible links, can't see that they would be the problem. I have power to my cigarette lighter, that is what is weird? The only power I have to the radio is the light and only half of the unit lights. Any ideas? I just purchase a Headunit from Cruiser Parts, nice original unit, I would blame that but I have no power to the unit....Can't blame them for that. I don't have power to the dome light as well. I think one is hot all of the time....When I test the hot lead I get continuity...But where is the damn line shorted?
Could this be my entire problem?

Could someone here scan a couple of things for me, from the FSM? One would be the body electrical that contains the schematic for the radio, cigarrette lighter and clock circuit...That would be a great help.

Aaron,

I'm a little amazed that at this point you haven't called Toyota up and ordered your FSM. I think someone is offering scanned versions online for download. Don't know where though.

Anyway, it could be your entire problem but I doubt it. I had a similar short with my 62 when I first got it, but I didn't have headlights either (though I did have parking and running lights). Mine turned out to be a short at a ?10-pin connector that's taped to the outside of the main wiring harness under the dash above and to the right of the steering column. Your's is no doubt somewhere else entirely, and you definitely don't want to be paying someone else by the hour to find it.

Bill

 

[acoen]

check your fuse box. the clock, radio and dome light all run off the same 7.5 fuse.

First thing I checked...Darn thing!

 

[acoen]

Aaron,

I'm a little amazed that at this point you haven't called Toyota up and ordered your FSM. I think someone is offering scanned versions online for download. Don't know where though.

Anyway, it could be your entire problem but I doubt it. I had a similar short with my 62 when I first got it, but I didn't have headlights either (though I did have parking and running lights). Mine turned out to be a short at a ?10-pin connector that's taped to the outside of the main wiring harness under the dash above and to the right of the steering column. Your's is no doubt somewhere else entirely, and you definitely don't want to be paying someone else by the hour to find it.

Bill

May be the problem, the PO told me the lights went out once then amazingly came back on. How did you find it? I'm looking for burned wires everywhere. Why I haven't purchased a FSM? Stuborn I guess, not tight. I will call my buddy and see when he can get one...Might as well order the fusible links too while I'm at it....Just in case. One has a skinned mark on the outside of the housing, tested fine.

 

[COSkier1]

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link to FSM online