FJ62 5.3 swap

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Joined
Feb 6, 2015
Threads
3
Messages
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Thanks for anyone checking out my swap. I am going to try to make this as useful a thread as I can when not actually being the one to do the swap myself, so will have limited pics of the work actually being done. But will leave a detailed list of parts and odds and ends needed to make my successful (hopefully) swap come together.

I love to do this kind of work myself. Built an IFS first gen 4runner last year with SAS, ARB equipped front rear diff, 5.29 gears, 35’s, etc. The thing is a blast and I hope to be able to pull it to the trail with my FJ when it is done. FJ62 pulling a 4Runner just sounds sexy! I am having a local shop do the work this time though. As much as I love the 4runner it doesn’t work well for me driving it to work (doesn’t give the impression I need to in a sales type job). I had a car DD but it was totaled about 4 months ago, so I need to get this thing back on the road ASAP and will be using the Cruiser as my DD. It looked a lot more fun than another car so I decided to buy this 1989 FJ62 and try to give it more modern feel, better gas mileage, and more power.

The way it showed up......
FJ62 original pic.webp


After the OME and BFG 33's.................
FJ62 OME and BFG.webp


And, adding the last years project because it is like porn for me.......
Washita.webp



So far I did the OME light lift springs, using Bilstein shocks and everything else is stock. Guess I should also note it came from So Cal and is in incredible shape. Pulling the suspension, the ubolts came apart like they were brand new. In MO 25 year old vehicles are so corroded and rusted a lot has to be cut off. The 4runner was a pain, but everything on this FJ has been a great surprise.

So now I have a 5.3 from a 2002 silverado with 70k on clock. Got to see it running in truck that was Tboned and destroyed body. Idled well, throttle response was a lot of fun compared to the 3FE, and the oil in the motor was clean, seemed like a good candidate. Had a 4L65E rebuilt and is ready to go. The rest of what I have or are waiting to show up are……

AA motor mounts

AA headers

AA adapter to Toyota split case

Camaro oil pan

Plan on using the FJ radiator with a electric fan that has not been decided on prob from summit racing

Painless wiring harness (they are flashing ECM to stand alone)

12558251 - SCREEN (oil pickup)
Part#: 12558251
Manufacturer Part#: 12558251
(Qty: 1 x $33.91)
12558253 - DEFLECTOR (Windage Tray)
Part#: 12558253
Manufacturer Part#: 12558253
(Qty: 1 x $17.83)
12558762 -1998-2003 Camaro/Firebird LS1 Oil Pan
Part#: 12558762
Manufacturer Part#: 12558762
(Qty: 1 x $164.95)
12551577 - TUBE (Dipstick tube)
Part#: 12551577
Manufacturer Part#: 12551577
(Qty: 1 x $7.04)
12551581 - INDICATOR (Dipstick)
Part#: 12551581
Manufacturer Part#: 12551581
(Qty: 1 x $9.99)


This in line fuel kit http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Fuel-Filter-Regulator-Pump-Kit,103299.html


I know there is a lot more details that are going to be worked out but picking up what I can sifting thru build threads. You may notice some of my parts list is just copied and pasted from the threads I am reading so I thank all of you that have documented and contributed your experience. I will do the same as I move along.

I would like to ask anyone with suggestions on what I have already listed I would love to hear them. Here are a couple of things I am still looking for, if anyone can direct to what has worked for them I would really appreciate it as well…….

-I am wanting to use the factory gauges, what product can I use to adapt factory gauge to

-oil pressure

-temp

-voltage

-anyone recommend a place online that can make the high pressure lines in need for power steering, trans cooler

-thinking I will use the ac compressor from the Toyota, it was replaced about 3 years ago and converted to R134, figure it will prob be easiest to adapt a bracket to make it work but open to suggestions if anyone has.


Thanks in advance for any thoughts!
 
Your trailer that you are going to haul the mini on better have good brakes..
 
If I were planning on regularly towing with my 62, I'd be thinking about swapping in 1-ton axles for the added braking. Yes, even with good trailer brakes.
 
Looks like a super clean truck your starting with.

I'm right in the middle of the same conversion. Couple thoughts:

Didn't catch what part of the country you're in. Will you be running emissions?

In-line versus in-tank fuel pumps is an often debated point with these swaps. I'm planning to go in-tank with a set up from Tanks Inc.

Lots of options out there for wiring harnesses. I'm not sure what the Painless costs but when I've checked in the past they always seem to be the most expensive. Check out Howell or BP Automotive if you haven't already pulled the trigger.

Many great threads and information out there covering this swap. Be sure to check out FJ60Cam's thread here if you haven't already.

Good luck with the swap and keep us posted.

Cheers,
-Ed
 
I would second the Howell re-flash and harness (I should have used them).
Their customer service is great even when I did not buy from them.
The re-flash should include the tranny as well, and not a stand alone unless you are going MT.
Go mechanical fan... it is simpler and less chance of anything going off.....
Don't use AA motor mounts they suck.

Toyota compressor for AC?
You'll be better off using the OME GM Denso compressor, but you need to fab up AC lines...

With this swap you'll have no problem pulling a trailer, but be aware of towing handling, and capacity on the rigs.
If not done already upgrade/update suspension components.....

Good luck
 
Hey guys, thanks for replies. I know there is a lot of knowledge on here, it is great to be able to tap into it!

Mace & Wile E Coyote - I may be dreaming thinking I'll pull the 4runner. My thoughts were a good trailer prob weighs 4-5 thousand lbs, my 4runner is a lil over 4 so prob around 9k total. When I used to be a roofer I pulled trailers full of shingles that were prob 15k with a 3/4 GM 6.0. When I had the trailer brakes dialed in correctly I could definitely feel the brakes on trailer stopping more than the brakes on the truck. I was hoping it will work but think it is still a worth while project even if it doesn't end up being something I can pull with.

cruiser enthuiser- Thanks for all of the tips. I just looked at tanks inc site, it is new to me and looks like a good source for fuel pump. I will look at Howell and BP for harness. I have not ordered yet but am against a wall for time now. I leave town today for weekend and need to get this stuff ordered before I leave, my motor is being delivered on Fri the 8th and I don't want to have my installer tripping over my motor, trans, etc., waiting on parts to come in. He has a full service shop he's running a business out of so I am trying to have stuff ready to go once he pulls motor so he can get his work space back asap. I have already talked to painless and they can have it ready and delivered next week so even if they are a bit more I would prob stay with them if I feel the quality is the same. Like I said though, I will look at the other two to see their timing. I have checked out Cams build, seems to be pretty good guidelines for success. A lot of my process here will come directly from that and when I am asking questions it is mostly on something I just didn't understand on his build or am trying to get sooner. The adapter for the oil gauge in particular. I know he used an adapter from Marks. From what I have read it takes a while to order anything from them. I thought I'd ask if someone had something else that worked as well hoping I could have it ready next week. I think for simplicity I will end up using after market gauges, so I get ones I know are accurate and maybe come back and try to get the Toyota ones to work for factory look later.

MANUCHAO- I will check into howell. I misspoke saying stand alone. I am using the 4L65E so your right, will need it to communicate with ECM. I know very little about AC. Is having lines fabb'ed all I would need to do to get the GM compressor to work? Since the rest of my system has been converted to R134 should it work with the GM compressor? And if so, have a recommendation on where I can order online? As far as upgrading suspension have already installed OME springs. Got light med, and really wish I would have went with heavy. I have not verified but believe I can us the OME AAL's and that makes them the same as the heavy's, but once again I am not sure on that, planned on following up after motor swap is complete. I understand the simplicity of mech fan, but I used to hate hearing it and feeling the drag on power when I had the 6.0 GM. Had mech fan in my 4runner as well and converted it to efan and have had good success, def notice a difference in power. I have been told that as long as I stay above 2500 cfm and make sure fan covers entire radiator it should be sufficient. And asked about the amp draw and was told that these trucks came from factory with efan so the system should be able to handle it no prob. Maybe I'll regret but either way will have an experience to share, good or bad:)

Thanks again. Would appreciate if anyone has suggestions for place get the ac lines, PS lines, trans cooler lines.
 
I would second the Howell re-flash and harness (I should have used them).
Their customer service is great even when I did not buy from them.
The re-flash should include the tranny as well, and not a stand alone unless you are going MT.
Go mechanical fan... it is simpler and less chance of anything going off.....
Don't use AA motor mounts they suck.

Toyota compressor for AC?
You'll be better off using the OME GM Denso compressor, but you need to fab up AC lines...

With this swap you'll have no problem pulling a trailer, but be aware of towing handling, and capacity on the rigs.
If not done already upgrade/update suspension components.....

Good luck

Oh yeah, also wanted to ask if you had any other suggestions for motor mounts? My installer is a great mechanic, and can do fab work but I am trying to keep it to a minimum for him. I am willing to spend a little more coin to keep this as plug and play as possible. Did you have other mounts you like or were you suggesting to fab up my own? Thx
 
A 18ft tandem axle car hauler should weigh in around 2000 lb.

Keep posting the pics of the swap. Looking forward to seeing the results.
 
ac lines and see that the amplifier is set up to work with the new hearth. no idea where on line for AC and power steering i was able to get it done locally.
I would wait on adding leafs to your springs... Heavy is rough as F*#$. wait to see how it will handle and if it sags.. I say put air bags...

Motor mounts is best if you or your mech fab your own.... but there are some really nice kits out there... AA is not one of those....

images
images


Read some of the threads.. I know I have seen some pics there as well.....

Others might help you as to where on line you might get the support for the hoses and PS lines....
Post your location... someone close to yah might have the info you are looking for...

good luck..
 
The stock gauges are super easy to get to work. The Marks adapters are the easiest (but most expensive) and I received them two or three days after I ordered them. The next easiest solution is to tap existing holes in the head and oil pan for the senders. cruiser enthuiser and daytonadogie I believe both did this and have the details on the tap sizes. The voltage doesn't take anything to make work - it will once you connect the stock harness to the battery. I have a Jags that Run oil sender adapter that I didn't use. Holler at me if you want try that.

You might also consider the muscle car oil pan kit instead of the Camaro pan. The whole kit (pan, tray, pickup, dipstick) is cheaper than even a used Camaro pan by itself. It has a lot more clearance at the diff, but a little less at the front of the motor above the axle housing.

Since you have a 62, the in-tank pump should be the best bet vs. the inline pump. Regarding that Speedway kit - one thing I didn't like about it is that the fuel fittings and the filter/regulator were generic. By shopping around, you could find the Wix filter and name brand fittings for the same price. It seems to be working just fine though.

The AC is also super easy to make work once you have custom hoses made. You'll only need to extend the stock AC compressor clutch wire to the GM clutch (you might have to run a ground wire too).

The PS hose should be easy to have made. You can always go the DIY route with the PSC stuff, but it is actually cheaper to have one made. JT Outfitters sells one for Saginaw pump swaps w/ the Toyota PS gear box, maybe that one would work? The trans cooler lines are low pressure, so they shouldn't be hard to fab up yourself.
 
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I'm just finishing up a 5.3 vortec/FJ62 swap. The stock fuel pump is working fine so far. MarkN used the 62 pump in his swap too, and has several thousand miles on it with no problems. His build thread is excellent with lots of pictures. I fabbed up my own mounts using a kit from Randy Ellis Designs.
http://www.randyellisdesign.com/GM-...ushing-Tubular-Race-Motor-Mount-Kit_p_85.html
I'm really pleased with them.
Cam and I used GM oil pan #19212593. Summit and Jegs have great prices on them.
What shifter do you plan on using?
 
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