FJ60 Transfer Case- Seating front output shaft

[orangefj45]

hey scott.

try this: pull out the front drive shaft and run it at speed with the hubs locked. that'll isolate things for ya.

hth

georg

 

[hank14]

hey scott.

try this: pull out the front drive shaft and run it at speed with the hubs locked. that'll isolate things for ya.

hth

georg

I pulled the front drive shaft- no vibration- hubs locked or unlocked, 4Hi engaged or not engaged.

Must be the driveshaft. It is balanced and has new u-joints, neither of which helped the problem.

I'll get pictures up to make sure it's in phase.

 

[orangefj45]

Hey Scott.
The problem you're having is drive shaft related but it's not necessarily the driveshaft's "fault". I'd be willing to be that your vibration/noise issue is caused by the difference in angles between the tcase front output flange pinion flange.
You'll need to measure these two flanges with a digital angle finder if possible. A cv style joint at the tcase might solve the problem. The best way to modify the front driveline in order to run a cv would be to source a cv front driveshaft from an early fj60 (81-84) and graft the cv joint from it to your existing driveshaft. You'll also need to run an early front tcase yoke since the bolt pattern is smaller.
Hth
Georg @ valley hybrids

 

[Kynot62]

Georg

Do you ever drill the flange for the early driveshaft pattern? Your opinion on doing so? I ask because I have the 62 flange on my t-case and pinion but my spare driveshaft will be a double carden with the older flange

Tony

 

[orangefj45]

hey tony.
i have drilled a few flanges. and it works as long as it's done properly. toyota makes it pretty easy since the shape of the flange determines the perfect concentricity between the drive shaft flange and the t-case flange. the best way to re-drill a flange is to put the "wrong pattern" driveshaft right up to it, then use two vise-grip plyers on opposite sides to hold the flange in place. use a centerpunch and mark your driveline bolt centers. leave the vise grips on and drill one bolt hole. then insert one driveline bolt and tighten it up. you can now remove the vise grips and drill the other three holes, using the driveline flange as a guide.
the oem flanges and even the aftermarket stuff is more than strong enough to support multiple bolt patterns. some of the aftermarket flanges have up to 5 patterns on them and i've never seen one fail.


sharp drill bit, slow speed, lots of oil,......done.


georg

 

[Kynot62]

Yup I do the same thing when drilling stuff, no reason not to use a pattern! Have to do things like this on boats at work on a regular basis. Matching bolt patterns can be a ton of fun.... Probably just pull the flange so I can drill it on my drill press.

Now I just have to weld up that extra shaft.

Tony

 

[hank14]

Thanks again to everyone for the input. I'm going to conclude my part of this thread by saying there should not be play in the front output shaft of the t-case after a rebuild- the front output bearing should need to be pressed in.

For me, this didn't fix my front end vibration like I thought it would. I'm still glad to have aclean, rebuilt case ready for another 20 years of service.

Call Georg at Valley Hybrids for parts or service- a true Land Cruiser expert!

I'm going to start another thread to pursue my front end 4wd vibration.

 

[orangefj45]

and i'll tell you the same thing i've been saying all along!


glad i could help.


georg

 

[Kynot62]

I too have a vibration and I am narrowing it down to the driveshaft, mainly the worn splines if I am guessing correctly, both u-joints are new and tight as well as the tcase. Might just have a new shaft made up. My vibration is only when I let up on the pedal and coast at speeds above 35mph. Maintain some skinny pedal and no vibration. We will see

Tony