Fj60 alternator brush replacement (1 Viewer)

[joyRidaz]

hello all, I'm seeking some tech help on replacing the brushes inside an fj60 alternator.

I have unsuccessfully tried to purchase the Bosch and some remanufactured units unsuccessfully. Purchase order goes through then bounces back a few days later saying out of inventory. I also have not found a reputable shop locally to do it for a decent price.

So I'm gonna repair this one.

I've swapped out the voltage regulator, didn't fix it. Now I have the unit removed from my truck and am trying to figure out the procedure for opening it up to access the brushes(I have new ones) to remove and solder in.

I've searched and have seen many 80 threads but nothing on an fj60.

Anyone have some pictures or knowledge of an old thread they could point me to?

I've watched several YouTube videos that seem directionally correct but the denso units look quite different (brushes in a nice assembled unit).

I'm unclear on:
- how to access the brushes, how to open it up etc
- procedure for swapping out the little brishes and how to solder back in.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[chichiflys]

Where are you located?

 

[joyRidaz]

Forgot to upload a diagram I found on the interwebs...

 

[joyRidaz]

Where are you located?

Charlotte, North Carolina.

 

[stevemartins]

I hate to bump an old thread but I find myself in the same situation, being unable to locate a replacement unit and deciding to rebuild.

I ordered bearings and brushes but now that I have the unit apart I can't see how to replace the brushes without major disassembly of the diode. Am I missing something?

 

[OSS]

Yes,
The phone number to C.P. Generator.

tel:909-463-0606

cpgenerator.com

Just get a rebuilt alternator shipped to you.

 

[joyRidaz]

You’ll need to pull apart the alternator, remove big outer halves exposing middle guts (see fist pic) and then melt the solder that hold the brush wires to the unit. Don’t loose the spring!

Then fumble around with getting the new brushes in with the springs and solder the wires in. I recall maybe drilling the holes a bit bigger.

Pls note the length difference in pic 2 of the aftermarket brush wires, vs oem.. aftermarkets are likely going to be too long, and will need trimming once u know how long they should be. If I recall the spring setting, and “threading the needle” (brush wire into hole then soldering it in place) was the toughest part. Oh ya cracking the alternator into 3 parts was also a struggle given the rust. Very doable diy project and cheap.

Sadly after replacing my brushes and voltage regulator and it still didn’t work, must be the diodes which apparently is like three bills to replace.

I have not tried to do my bearing since the spin test passed.

Pls report back how it goes. Hope his helps. Good luck!

I hate to bump an old thread but I find myself in the same situation, being unable to locate a replacement unit and deciding to rebuild.

I ordered bearings and brushes but now that I have the unit apart I can't see how to replace the brushes without major disassembly of the diode. Am I missing something?

 

[morganism]

a lot of times, it is worth drilling a tiny hole thru the brush holder, side to side, so you can stick a wire in there to hold the brush back as you assemble the halves.

don't know if you can get to it on this unit tho...

 

[tucson_sailors]

Would also check around your local area for an "old dude" alternator shop. Even if you get a rebuilt unit shipped to you, it still be stock coils. I have read threads where they can rewind the old 55a alternators to get a few more amps out of it, but most modern shops just replace, only the crusty old timers remember how to actually tear down and rebuild. If you happen to find someone, PLEASE post up who they are - they, like our 60's are made of unobtanium and are well worth supporting by letting other folks know where to send their old alts for work.

$.02

Glenn in Marana, AZ

 

[Seth S]

In some of the Bosch alternators I have used on other cars the voltage regulator has the brushes on it and with a couple of screws the piece swaps out. Guessing the Toyota unit isn't the same.

 

[Iszzyfj60]

a lot of times, it is worth drilling a tiny hole thru the brush holder, side to side, so you can stick a wire in there to hold the brush back as you assemble the halves.

don't know if you can get to it on this unit tho...

This is exactly the advice I was looking for. The housing on my alternator cracked, found a used alternator locally and figured it would be simple to just swap the housings. Then realized I couldn't reassemble them with the brushes extended and couldn't see how to get them to retract until I'm finished assembling it.

 

[tucson_sailors]

For future seraches. Just contacted CP generator about the alt on my 2F 1984 and found out that per their records there are two models of ND with different amp ratings. The external volt regulator of 45 amps, and the internal of 55 amps. The 45 cannot (or at least they don't) be rewired for more amps, but they can rebuild to factory. $96.00 dollars and 3 to 4 hours. Didn't r price the 55 amp model, as I don't apparently have one. YMMV but figured I'd pass along. Nice fella I talked to, would recommend give them a ring if you don't have any local shops to talk to.

Glenn in Marana

 

[zakthor]

I've used romaine electric to rebuild both my bj60 alternators (the one with the built in air pump.)

Romaine Electric

Both times they media blasted and epoxy painted them, they came back looking like a new part. No doubt they could rebuild yours too.

 

[himhj60]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

totally fascinating !
ill add a tid bit
this is how you make sure your FINE re-wind is SOLID



.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]