fj40 build comments, suggestions, advice, etc! (1 Viewer)

[Soulfly]

Hello all,

I have been lurking religiously for awhile now, first time poster so

I am about to close a deal on a pretty sweet 40 hopefully this weekend or the first part of next week and I want to get some direction from this ever so knowledgeable gang of cruiser heads!

The rig is a 1973 that is SPOA F/R w/ F/ Cut & turn, sbc350, sm420, 33" Swampers on Black Rock crawlers, front disc conversion, Sag PS, 2x lock rites (only front installed) and comes with a complete FF rear minus the 3rd.

I'm likely going to wheel it the way it is for awhile but I am going to throw some options out there for advice/comments so I can start gathering the parts I will eventually need.

The rig will be primarily for the trail but I would still like to be able to drive it to my fav camp spots/wheeling areas. The most common place I wheel is about 45 mins away on nothing but empty country roads. Our fav camp site is about 1.5 hours away with about an hour of that being on the interstate (quick route) where the speed limit ranges from 60 to primarily 70mph. Or also to work=15 mins of back roads & to pickup my daughter at school = again about 15 mins of back roads… It will not be a daily driver by ANY means.

Ok, I'll address some of the future mods one by one:

1) Engine: I have a built Syclone motor that I can trade straight up for a *complete* Gen 3 LS1 with 11k miles. However, I have heard nothing but good things about the Vortec... If a Vortec is the choice of the gang, I can just as easily sell the Syclone to the person who wants to trade and Vortec's can be had here for a reasonable price.

2) Transmission: I would really prefer an auto and was thinking along the lines of a built 700r4 w/ manual valve body. Any other suggestions?

3) Axles: Differential Engineering Inc. Hum9's F/R w/ rear Detroit & Front ARB or maybe just 2x ARB, F/R disks, final drive ratio of: 4.80 including the reduction, 35 spline x 1.50, DEI High Steer. Although I have a set of d60’s F/R that I will probably build up and either keep for spares or sell to fund a portion of the build…

4) Transfer case: Up in the air between a Stak or some variation of Atlas. I’m hoping the Hum9 can be setup for rear steer which would require either of these cases correct? If it isn’t possible, I still think one of these will be the best but most $$$ option.

5) Suspension: Rear: Custom take off of Profitt's 4 link coil spring conversion, shocks TBD. Front: Custom 4 link w/ either 2.5 Fox Remotes or Bilstein 7100 series, travel TBD.

6) Tires & wheels, 20" double BL Staz wheels w/ either 36x13.50x20 or 39.5x13.50x20 Irok Radials. Question: would the 20's be overkill for a 36" tire? With that tire size should I drop down to a 17" wheel? I'm sure I’ll eventually want larger tires; hence the initial thought of the 20's. I would really like a 37" Irok Radial for starters but they don't make them in a 20"... Another question; which bolt pattern should I go with as I will be making this purchase along with the Hum9's. So the bolt pattern can obviously be custom for both applications...

Well that's the basics for now anyway! Other things will be brought up later like full hydro or assist but I think I have thrown out too much already (sorry!) So we’ll leave that for another day…. As I said, this transformation will be done step by step over the winters. I'll likely start w/ doing Rear Disk conversion to the FF, install the lock rite, set it up, totally upgrade the front axle with Long's & full rebuild. The truck doesn't currently have a hy Steer setup, looking at Luke's for the time being unless swayed another way. I figure, these axles will hopefully handle the stock 350 for a little while and I'll be able to sell them to partially fund the next upgrade and so on, etc.

I cannot say how much I have enjoyed lurking this forum, some truly great people here with top notch info, assistance & support!!

Many thanks in advance for any time and info provided!!

Happy trails,

-Josh M.

 

[Isotel]

1) Engine: Syclone
Just because its Different, and different is cool

2) Transmission: 700r4 w/ manual valve body.[/FONT
Great Choice

3) Axles:
i dont know, but sounds expencive

4) Transfer case:
4 speed atlas sounds Sweet

I know nothing more

Sounds like its going to be a badass rig.. Good luck

 

[Rock Taxi]

I think the profitts link setup is probably a great design, but a portal axle will require a completely different setup than what would work properly with a non-portal axle.

Get the LS1, the Syclone motor is great for street and higher RPM's, but lags badly off idle.

Atlas or Stak - both are great, but if you have the dough, go 4 spd.

Ed

 

[Soulfly]

isotel: I followed your build up (great job!) and for awhile considered a built d300…. The transfer case I have since been considering is the 4 spd Atlas. Rock Taxi is right about the Syclone motor though, although definitely different, it would be better suited in a street rig; especially how this one is built!! This is basically, in the end, obviously going to be my dream build. My main goals for the rig are to be built for strength, reliability, purpose/function and also to be a little different hopefully!

Rock Taxi: I did leave out a few other options for the rear suspension! You’ll have to forgive me; we just went through a very traumatic event in my direct family. So I’m basically still not quite all there…. The other two options are 4 link w/ ¼ elliptical or coil overs. I am 95% sure I will let this portion of the build go to BTF since they are very close by; not to mention they do incredible work! It appears they are really reaching out to the Toyota/Cruiser crowd which I must give respect to as well.

I'm with you on the LS1. Especially since I can get a complete setup with such low mileage and without hassle or out of pocket expense!

I *really* appreciate the feedback from you guys and hope others will chime in as well!!

Many thanks,

Josh M.

 

[Mace]

I never replied to your e-mail.


Honestly, I think you would be better off finding a carcass to start out with instead of the rig you are looking at.

Why start with a built rig and then gut it???

Start with a frame and tub then build it the way you want..

 

[JRFJ4-]

North Bama

Where in North Bama are you? We need some more cruisers around.

JR

 

[Soulfly]

Mace: No problemo about the email, I figured you were busy. You might be right but my logic goes something like; I would have a nice drivable rig to start out with and some of the parts could be sold to partially fund other parts of the build until the real $$$ comes in... Also, since I'm new to such an extreme build, I thought it might be a good idea to just work on one section at a time, work out any bugs, drive for awhile and so on and so on. Or I could just finish building this one making it somewhat DD friendly and get a carcass as you suggested. It's still up in the air... Regardless, I want this rig and will hopefully be finalizing the deal *very* soon.

JRFJ4-: I'm in Hellville errr I mean Huntsville; where are you in N. Bama? I watched your build up, great job! You better hope you're not too close, I might be calling on ya!! J/K mang but it will be great to have another built cruiser to run with!!

While I'm here I have a couple more questions... Ideally, if you were having custom axles built; what WMS to WMS would you run and what is the typical front offset measurement? I've searched and can't find anything in regards to the front offset... Oh yeah one more while I'm at it. I have been watching swilson's awesome build on pirate and saw his post in the 40 forum about the centered rear axle causing an offset driveline (woody's comment included).... I'll be running about the same, LS1, 700r4, Atlas; so would a slightly offset rear be better, to get a good and straight driveline, for such a setup?

I apologize for all the questions!! I'm a raging OCD perfectionist eek: ) so just bear with me here!!

Many thanks,

-Josh

 

[Mace]

62 to 65" width would be ideal IMHO.


Make the rear centered and have only one length shaft. That way, spares (they are going to be custom more likely than not) will only be one axle, not two..

 

[Soulfly]

Right on Mace! I was thinking somewhere around 60 to 62". I think I'll go with 62" unless others chime in with swaying opinions to go wider... Gotcha about the centered rear diff rather than slightly offset to give a perfectly straight drive line! Duh, something about hindsight being 20-20.....

I got the rough quote on my axles (wheels also), I just need to call John @ Staz to totally confirm it and get the final price. So far, it seems a fully built pair of Humm9's, believe it or not, ends up a little cheaper (so far) than a *basic* set of Dynatrac Pro 60's. The Humm9's include: chromo 37 spline shafts, CTIS boxes and upgraded arms (CTIS will be completed later on), their new brake setup (highly improved I hear), ARB's and rear fully setup for rear steer but temporarily locked out.

The only problem seems to be finding a couple sets of 2.50 9" gears to give the 4.80 with reduction.... He said I could supply my own; anyone have any possible leads?

Also, I guess he now has a king pin conversion for them. Since I'm only really somewhat familiar with cruiser axles; what would be the advantage of this upgrade?

Many thanks for all the comments and answers so far! I really do appreciate it all and hope others will chime in as well!

-Josh

 

[Tapage]

chromo 37 spline shafts

big league !!! what do you plan to run dude . ?

Also, I guess he now has a king pin conversion for them.

I'm not impartial .. but i love 'em

One guess .. did you think in the Crawlers ( 39" ) .. nice on road, and nice off road .. nothing really radical as Iroks or Boggers .. but nice performance anycase.

I thought a little better than MTR ( 40" ) to compare apples with apples.

 

[LukeZero]

...

The only problem seems to be finding a couple sets of 2.50 9" gears to give the 4.80 with reduction.... He said I could supply my own; anyone have any possible leads?


-Josh

Josh- you won't find them aftermarket, they were used in several Ford products in the 70s.. Here is the list that I have... left over from a nearly forgotten streetrod project.

Mustang II, Bobcat, Pinto, Versailles, Monarch, Grenada
Axle tag ID=WFB-G or WFB-K 2.50:1 gears, open carrier.

LTD II, Cougar, Thunderbird.
Axle tag ID=WEB-BF 2.50:1 gears, open carrier.

Lincoln Continental and Mark V
Axle tag ID=WGB-AB, WGC-K 2.50:1 gears, open carrier.

Other models of Ford or Mercury
Axle tag ID=WDC-EL or WDC-EM 2.50:1 gears, open carrier.

Get ready to get dirty. Looks like you should take a flashlight and head to the wrecking yard. Hopefully you'll find some that still have the production tags under on of the centersection bolts.

Good luck, Luke