FJ40 battery dying (1 Viewer)

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Ok so usually I’m pretty good at electrical stuff being that it’s my job but I’m at a loss for this one. So rewind a few weeks ago on my ‘69 FJ40 with a newly swaped in used 2F engine my battery starts getting weak and dies one morning. I realize that the battery is 4 years old; ok not a big deal it’s time for a new battery.

Now a 3 days later I feel like my new battery is dying. I can tell by the way my starter sounds it’s getting slow. Also FYI I have a FJ60 gear reduction starter that’s only a year old. So after lots of trouble shooting and getting the battery and alternator tested at Oriley’s and myself with my multimeter both pass as good. I measured the draw with the car off and I’m getting a 30mA draw which is fine. This is also a 1969 with no computers there is nothing that should be on to drain it and 30mA is acceptable. The alternator is also fairly new being maybe 2 years old.

So after this I get another battery under warranty from Walmart, and yes it is the right size battery, and I put it in thinking maybe I got really unlucky and a bad battery still passed the test at the auto parts store. So all seems well for about a week. I park the thing for a week and I go back to it yesterday and it’s got nothing. Barley enough to make some gauges move but not even a click from the starter. I check the battery: 5.5 V and a 0.7 mA draw. I am very confused on what can be causing this. Obviously a week can drain a battery somewhat but that much? Also the alternator is putting out 14 V when the car was running and I watch the stock amp meter and it’s been feeding the battery the usual amount of amps when driving. So if the battery is new, alternator is checking good, and there is no draw on the battery, what can this be???? Obviously the whole engine swap thing raises questions especially since I’ve found some questionable work but 30mA is 30mA. If there was a drain on the battery or the alternator wasn’t charging I would know about it. Hoping some cruiser gurus can maybe remeber some old wire that Toyota put in or something crazy that can be causing the problem or maybe Walmart battery’s are just complete garbage lol. Thanks in advance.
 
It’s always been a mystery to me too... but, a week without starting can really run my battery down.

I installed a battery cutoff, on the negative cable, and now it never runs down.

These have circuits that are “always on”... my uneducated guess is that one of these circuits may be shorting to the frame or body... thereby running the battery down... its OLD wire.

Another issue I found was a PO had wired a relay wrong (to an “always on” circuit) and was pulling battery+ to relay-85 and sending relay-31/50 to the component (backwards).

Not sure why... but this would also drain the battery.

HTH
 
I have had the same issue for years and assumed it was related to the something constantly hot like the ignition or headlight switch. Battery cut off switch works for me too.
 
if mine is going to be setting for a week or more i just plug in the battery tender when I get lucky enough to start up the ol 40 it`s got a full charge and ready to go. Otherwise I would go with the battery cut-off switch.
JP
 
Ok so usually I’m pretty good at electrical stuff being that it’s my job but I’m at a loss for this one. So rewind a few weeks ago on my ‘69 FJ40 with a newly swaped in used 2F engine my battery starts getting weak and dies one morning. I realize that the battery is 4 years old; ok not a big deal it’s time for a new battery.

Now a 3 days later I feel like my new battery is dying. I can tell by the way my starter sounds it’s getting slow. Also FYI I have a FJ60 gear reduction starter that’s only a year old. So after lots of trouble shooting and getting the battery and alternator tested at Oriley’s and myself with my multimeter both pass as good. I measured the draw with the car off and I’m getting a 30mA draw which is fine. This is also a 1969 with no computers there is nothing that should be on to drain it and 30mA is acceptable. The alternator is also fairly new being maybe 2 years old.

So after this I get another battery under warranty from Walmart, and yes it is the right size battery, and I put it in thinking maybe I got really unlucky and a bad battery still passed the test at the auto parts store. So all seems well for about a week. I park the thing for a week and I go back to it yesterday and it’s got nothing. Barley enough to make some gauges move but not even a click from the starter. I check the battery: 5.5 V and a 0.7 mA draw. I am very confused on what can be causing this. Obviously a week can drain a battery somewhat but that much? Also the alternator is putting out 14 V when the car was running and I watch the stock amp meter and it’s been feeding the battery the usual amount of amps when driving. So if the battery is new, alternator is checking good, and there is no draw on the battery, what can this be???? Obviously the whole engine swap thing raises questions especially since I’ve found some questionable work but 30mA is 30mA. If there was a drain on the battery or the alternator wasn’t charging I would know about it. Hoping some cruiser gurus can maybe remeber some old wire that Toyota put in or something crazy that can be causing the problem or maybe Walmart battery’s are just complete garbage lol. Thanks in advance.


u should have a 27 Series battery , that's the proper Group Or Size CCA

post photos of All your battery cables positive and negative & terminal ends

verify U indeed have a short but very important Starter Ground cable from frame rail to main starter mounting bolt / nut , should be a black cable w / Yellow tracer stripe

u may have a connection and or corrosion issue with your cables & or terminals ends ?



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u should have a 27 Series battery , that's the proper Group Or Size CCA

post photos of All your battery cables positive and negative & terminal ends

verify U indeed have a short but very important Starter Ground cable from frame rail to main starter mounting bolt / nut , should be a black cable w / Yellow tracer stripe

u may have a connection and or corrosion issue with your cables & or terminals ends ?



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Yes I do have a 27 size battery. I’ll try to post some pictures of my setup tomorrow. I checked resistance and cleaned the connections of the main ground and power cable and they seem fine and relatively new.
 
Are you 100% on the 30ma draw ? There has to be more of a drain than 30ma. Battery cutoffs are fine , but since you just swapped engines, you may want to find the root of the problem. Another possibility is to look at the output when charging. I know you said 14 volts and that is fine, but, using the meters AC settings, check for ripple ? With a high AC component going to the battery , it can wreak havoc.

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Are you 100% on the 30ma draw ? There has to be more of a drain than 30ma. Battery cutoffs are fine , but since you just swapped engines, you may want to find the root of the problem. Another possibility is to look at the output when charging. I know you said 14 volts and that is fine, but, using the meters AC settings, check for ripple ? With a high AC component going to the battery , it can wreak havoc.

View attachment 1832224
I did this check as well and my multimeter wasn’t reading any AC voltage. Edit: actually I did something else I’ll try to check that once I get it started
 
Maybe an intermittent parasitic draw and it’s just not happening when you check for it?

One possibility that comes to mind is a bad ignition switch doesn’t shut off sometimes.

But to troubleshoot your scenario, I think I’d start disconnecting the battery when you park it for any length of time and check battery voltage when you park it and then just before a start.
 
Maybe an intermittent parasitic draw and it’s just not happening when you check for it?

One possibility that comes to mind is a bad ignition switch doesn’t shut off sometimes.

But to troubleshoot your scenario, I think I’d start disconnecting the battery when you park it for any length of time and check battery voltage when you park it and then just before a start.
Yeah that’s a good idea that would be able to tell me if I’m just getting bad batteries or not.
 
I had this problem on my 78. First issue that i troubleshot after purchase. First i changed battery and then cleaned the ground; no dice. Then i noticed that i lost the ability to turn the starter after it rained. The slats in the hood are pointed directly at the positive battery terminal.

I bought some marine grade terminals, dielectric grease, battery tetminal boots, and new cables for both the starter and ground to frame. Fixed! Have not had a problem with turnover since.
 

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