Builds First Land Cruiser - Locked 1994 FZJ80

Mad4Rnr

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Sep 20, 2018
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Penngrove, CA
Still haven’t finished the lift, wife said she wanted a new deck in the back yard so I’ve been slaving on that for the last few weekends. But today when the battery in my lawn tractor and my beater T100 died simultaneously I made a power move... The T100 got the Interstate that came with my 80 series and I picked up a new X2Power Premium AGM battery from Batteries Plus. This thing is super heavy... energy dense.

1913217
 
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Alabama
It’s a 3x love connection! Congrats brotha.
3x ???
Is this in reference to having lockers in both axles and a transfer case locker? If so, aren’t all the transfer cases equipped to lock while in low range?
In other words, is there a Tcase in an 80 that does NOT lock while in low???

Thanks in advance.
 
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so. oregon
3x ???
Is this in reference to having lockers in both axles and a transfer case locker? If so, aren’t all the transfer cases equipped to lock while in low range?
In other words, is there a Tcase in an 80 that does NOT lock while in low???

Thanks in advance.
If you add a CDL button and do the pin 7 mod you will have full control of the center lock enabled or not in Hi and Low.
 
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Dec 27, 2018
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Auburn Alabama
Don't take the caster plate installation instructions lightly. You really do need that recommended drill to properly get in there and drill out for the Wits End plates. That are super nice, but it took significantly longer than expected. Love the build.
 

Mad4Rnr

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Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
64
Location
Penngrove, CA
3x ???
Is this in reference to having lockers in both axles and a transfer case locker? If so, aren’t all the transfer cases equipped to lock while in low range?
In other words, is there a Tcase in an 80 that does NOT lock while in low???

Thanks in advance.

Typically the early FJ80's and the later FZJ80's that didn't come from the factory with diff lockers all came equipped with the Center Diff Lock (CDL) button. Like retrofive mentioned, many of us with the diff lockers want that extra control of the center diff so we install the CDL with the 7-pin mod. Mine is que'd up and ready to go once I finished this deck for the wifey....
 

Mad4Rnr

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Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
64
Location
Penngrove, CA
Don't take the caster plate installation instructions lightly. You really do need that recommended drill to properly get in there and drill out for the Wits End plates. That are super nice, but it took significantly longer than expected. Love the build.
You mean r-angle drill with a short jobber bit rather than knothcing the stock bracket with an angle-grinder?

Arn't the 2.5" doable with a grinder and the 4" plates the ones you do with the drill?
 
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Messages
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Auburn Alabama
You mean r-angle drill with a short jobber bit rather than knothcing the stock bracket with an angle-grinder?

Arn't the 2.5" doable with a grinder and the 4" plates the ones you do with the drill?
Thats a question for jason i guess, I thought you had to drill for the 2.5”. But I see how a grinder could work.
 

ppc

M Go Blue
 
 
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Aug 18, 2003
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Nashville, TN
Typically the early FJ80's and the later FZJ80's that didn't come from the factory with diff lockers all came equipped with the Center Diff Lock (CDL) button. Like retrofive mentioned, many of us with the diff lockers want that extra control of the center diff so we install the CDL with the 7-pin mod. Mine is que'd up and ready to go once I finished this deck for the wifey....
That is not correct. The 91-92 models all came with the CDL button. The 93-97 models did not have the button but had a transfer case that has a viscous coupler. Front and rear axle diff lockers made no difference.
 

Mad4Rnr

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Sep 20, 2018
Messages
64
Location
Penngrove, CA
After a three month delay working on other projects I finally got back to my rig. After stripping out the old front suspension I blasted the spring perches and installed the extended brake lines.

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Then the Land tank caster plates right before welding and paint.

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Then the Fox 2.0s and Dobinsons progressives, I’ll need some 30mm spacers for sure.

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Dobinsons steering stabilizer and adjustable panhard.

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Mad4Rnr

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Sep 20, 2018
Messages
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Location
Penngrove, CA
Started off this morning installing new sway bar bushings front and rear.

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Then up front I installed the Dobinsons 30mm spacers and Slee sway bar drop. I also installed new OEM axle-caliper brake lines.

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Those spacers did the trick, sits nice now.

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Here is the little chart Dobinsons gives you in the spring box, I’m a sucker for geaky things like this:

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I was hoping to get it running today but I never got a chance to bleed the brakes. I spent too much time messing around trying to fix a sheared rear shock bolt. I screwed up and drilled the hole off center so now the extractor just grabs the female threads and binds up rather than unthreading the bolt.

It’s too deep to weld a nut to it. Any other suggestions, should I weld a short bolt to it?

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ppc

M Go Blue
 
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Nashville, TN
Try heating it up good with a torch and try the extractor again. Failing that there still should be enough area to weld a nut. A bolt would have far less cross section and either break again or the weld would fail.
 

Mad4Rnr

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Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
64
Location
Penngrove, CA
Left work a bit early today so I could run home to bleed the brakes and throw the wheels back on. She’s a tad stink bug in the rear but there’s no interior and no sliders or rear bumper yet.

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Took it for a drive and I wasn’t disappointed but it does seem a bit loose in the rear end. I plan to rebuild the front end and get an alignment soon so I’ll check the caster angle, might also need to invest in the sway bar ball joints...

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Also my White Nuckle sliders should be here soon, can’t wait to get some trail time.
 
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