First Highway test of the 60- Overheated. (3 Viewers)

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There is a add in TT for radiators under $200, sorry I don't have it with me. Dont forget to burp your system afterwards. 2F's are bad to have air pockets in the head which can lead to a cracked head. Like swank said, if its over heating at highway speeds, your blocked up. Most likely the radiator or stuck thermostat ( parts store should have thermostat for about $10), try it first but you might as well change radiators if you plan on keeping her.
 
Other than tossing my 60 over my shoulder and patting the roof, how does one go about 'burping' a Land Cruiser?
 
TO get the air out of a 60-Park it nose up on ramps, with and extra 2x6 under the passenger side front tire. Open both heaters full blast. Run the truck with the radiator cap off, adding coolant to keep it full. Squeeze the upper hose a few times to get out the air. Once there is no more air, put the cap on. Use a new cap or the air bubble will return if the old cap is failing (don't ask how I know!). Keep the resivoir full and check each time before you run it for 2-3 days. Then it should be good forever.
 
doc,
did you check if one of your rad hoses is collapsing at highway speed. that would restrict flow and over heat ya. heard of it happening before.

good luck
-Al
 
informationjunky said:
There is a add in TT for radiators under $200, sorry I don't have it with me. Dont forget to burp your system afterwards. 2F's are bad to have air pockets in the head which can lead to a cracked head. Like swank said, if its over heating at highway speeds, your blocked up. Most likely the radiator or stuck thermostat ( parts store should have thermostat for about $10), try it first but you might as well change radiators if you plan on keeping her.
Click to expand...

The add is from Cabe Toyota 877-803-2223. The advertised price is $139.00.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
TO get the air out of a 60-Park it nose up on ramps, with and extra 2x6 under the passenger side front tire. Open both heaters full blast. Run the truck with the radiator cap off, adding coolant to keep it full. Squeeze the upper hose a few times to get out the air. Once there is no more air, put the cap on. Use a new cap or the air bubble will return if the old cap is failing (don't ask how I know!). Keep the resivoir full and check each time before you run it for 2-3 days. Then it should be good forever.
Click to expand...

you forgot jumping up and down on the front bumper ;)
 
How do I check to see if the hose is collapsing on the freeway? I don't fit inside the engine bay very well.
 
do ya have a lil kid ya could shove in there?
 
Its the lower hose that can collapse. If the rad is flowing well, the hose is less likely to collaspe but replacing the hose is pretty easy. Some hoses have a spring inside them to prevent collapse. If hose collapse was the only problem, I would expect the temp to return to normal as soon as you got off the highway and let the engine idle for a while. I wondering if you just have a gauge problem. Oh, on burping the system, I like to put a Prestone flush T in the upper heater hose to vent the air bubbles.
 
Doc, don't suppose the fuel guage also went to the top at the same time........did it?
 
Landpimp said:
Doc, don't suppose the fuel guage also went to the top at the same time........did it?
Click to expand...

When my rig overheated last summer, as soon as the gauge hit the red, truck
started pinging and losing power, and about a minute later, as I was searching
for a place to stop, it started spewing steam out the overflow bottle. I was doing
about 40 - 45 MPH at the time, but on side streets, so frequent stops for lights.

If your rig was truly overheating, you'd feel it, not just see it on the gauge.
I'm with pimp on this one. Sounds like you overheated electrically only.
Get the cheap SunPro temp gauge and replace your stock temp gauge with it for a
while. See if it really does overheat on the freeway.

As for your lower radioator hose collapsing: if it were to happen, pull over as soon
as you see it overheating and pop the hood. Lok at the hose. It'll stay collapsed
for quite a few seconds, at least, after you stop.

And finally, get yourself an infrared thermometer. You can probably get a fairly
cheap one at HF or Sears. Run the motor til it's warmed up, then shoot various
parts of the engine and rad with the thermo. Then get out on the side streets for
a bit, come back and re-shoot. Then, get out on the highway and repeat. This is
the best way to see what's going on.
 
Oh, and if your running too lean on the freeway, that can cause you to overheat, too.
But you'd feel that, cause you'd prolly have lean misfires and pinging/bucking.

Is your cold air intake intact? Pulling intake air from behind the headlight is much denser
and cooler than pulling it from above the manifolds.
 
reading your post about the fuel guage problem............AND your overheating(or suspect your are)...............kinda makes me think they are both related and its an electircal problem.

I have seen the temp go up but not all the way to the red, its not as common as the pegging temp/fuel.......but i have seen it, I suspect the problem lies in the fuel guage ground.
 
I'm getting some good information here- keep it coming!

Ok, the fuel gauge has NEVER worked since I bought the truck. As far as I know it's not related to the overheating, which is a very recent issue.

I really should go buy a digital temp gauge and check out the water temp for sure. I never let the temp gauge get to the red lpart of the gauge, so I've never seen it 'boil over' or anything like that.

Maybe it IS electrical? I hope so.

When the in dash temp gauge shows too hot I am not noticing any kind of engine malfunction.

Yes the factory CAI is intact.
 
How do I find the ground wire for the fuel gauge itself?

The ground wire for the fuel level sending unit is still good.
 
pop the cluster out, its real easy(even easier than a fj40) the temp and fuel share the same ground, which is on the back of the fuel guage, there are a small set of points that can be carefully cleaned(with emmory cloth)

yes a non contact thermo is proly on of my most used tools, saved me lots of headaches and guessing, Raytec mini is $70

Doc said:
How do I find the ground wire for the fuel gauge itself?

The ground wire for the fuel level sending unit is still good.
Click to expand...
 
Landpimp said:
Doc, don't suppose the fuel guage also went to the top at the same time........did it?
Click to expand...

LP,

Are you refering to the electronic glitch in the dash (ground problem) which affects two guages at the same time ???

Cahil
 
Ya know - it could be the voltage regulator in the gauge cluster. Drives both the fuel and temp gauge. yankeetoys.org has/had a link on how to clean the contacts in the internal voltage regulator. Can't find it on their site right now but I'll check the hard copy that I printed at home and post the link later.

Ming
 
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