engine cut off cable broke (1 Viewer)

[bj40green]

I came back from shopping, parked the truck and pulled the engine cut off knob and.... nada!
Turns out that the cable broke just behind the pull knob.
So I checked the EPC to figure out which components were there and how it fits together before I started pulling stuff out which would be unnecessary. So I searched for "cable" .... and I get a list of all the cables used in a Cruiser but not the one for killing the engine.
I searched for "fuel cut off" and was directed to the lever for shut of. I finally found the cable and it is called: WIRE SUB ASSY - STOP FLEXIBLE! All cables are named cable but only this one is called a wire. Funny people at Toyota.
Anyway, I took out the ashtray, loosened the big nut on the back and took it out of the dash. The cable (sorry: wire) is a complete unit (78504-90304) and is about $42 as I found out.
A bit to expensive to my taste so I called a friend who repairs bicycles and jet ski's and asked him for a piece of cable and two screw-on barrels (if you call them that) and made my own replacement cable (sorry: wire).

While I had the "BUTTON ASSY STOP" on my bench I decided it was a good time to clean and grease it. So I loosened the BIG chrome ring and pushed the shaft back and was very, very, super very lucky to catch the two tiny "locks" that jumped out when the spring came out. They look like flintstones for a Zippo lighter but are a bit smaller. I cleaned the unit, lubricated it and put it back together. Made a new cable by attaching one barrel and test fitted it on the knob side.

Back to the truck, installed the push - pull unit with the half finished cable, wiggled the other end in the "old" outer cable, and directed it to the cut off lever. Attached the second barrel, test fitted for the correct lenght and minimum play, made a tiny adjustment and put in. Put back the safety clip and it works like new.


time: 1½ hour, costs $2

Rudi

 

[Estancio]

Great inventive solution!

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Rudi,

I know this thread is pretty old - and yeah, I've searched all over for an answer (I'm just about to email and ask @lostmarbles, like I've done for so many other things) but am gonna try to post up here first.

I've got a mostly-intact 'cable assy stop' (78510-90801), but I know it was in the wrong place in the dash, and hence mounted incorrectly to properly actuate the bit on the injection pump. And I've taken it all apart!!

So my question is with regard to the locks that you mention above. I presume that they are to keep the pull/lever in either the stop, run, or over-inject position. But I'm confused on the proper position of the button. Is the resting position during driving pulled out to the first detent? Then to stop the engine the button/knob is pulled all the way out? Which would mean that over-inject is pushed all the way in?

I think I am understanding the positions of the lever on the injection pump, which would make the pull-button intuitive but (again) it was not proper when I got it and... as mentioned...it's been a while since I've driven the thing and wasn't all that familiar with it in the first place! haha.

Thanks for any help you might provide.
Regards,
Travis.-

 

[bj40green]

Hi Travis,
Up to Dec. '78 the BJ's came with the cable described above.
From Jan. '79 the BJ's came with the Stop-Run-Overinject system which is controlled by the ignition key.
You can't have both systems in your truck unless there is some leftover from a previous owner.

Rudi

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Hmm. Strange. I’ve got a B engine with no edic; it originated in S. America. I mean, there is an ignition key that has the glow/acc/on/start to it, but I like the manual glow switch though so I added a glow controller.

but I digress. When I bought the truck the key could be removed and the engine would continue to run until/unless the cable was pulled. But that could have also been a PO work-around for a bad edic that was removed or something.

I’ll have to grab the serial number off the casting (I was just looking at it yesterday, but am too lazy at the moment) and see what *should* have been in there. Maybe it should have been edic.... we’ll see.

thanks a ton for the reply and guidance though. I can’t tel you how many of your posts I’ve read to try and learn the diesel side of cruisers.

best, Travis.-

 

[SAB]

Travis,
I have a 1980 BJ41 with a 2B. I opted to bypass a faulty EDIC system using the cable system found on earlier models. Using the pull stop knob and a Toyota hood release cable, it's a fairly straight forward install. The indents on the knob aren't utilized. It's merely a pull to stop function. On the EDIC motor, the middle position is "neutral" and when pulled toward the front of the rig is the "off" position. I can snap some pics if that isn't clear. You will need to fabricate a bracket to hold the cable behind the dash and in the engine bay. Works well and you never have to worry about the EDIC system again.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Hmm. Strange. I’ve got a B engine with no edic; it originated in S. America

Not all countries got the EDIC. South Amercan models often dont have them.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

@SAB. Thanks for the info. I'll figure out how to route the cable. I just like to know if there's a "right" way. I study those photos and threads that are inspiring but sometimes can't tell from the pics (or the parts diagrams) what exactly routes where.

@roscoFJ73. I'll probably never know if there was an EDIC on this vehicle or not. There isn't one now, and I don't intend to put one back!

I'm all for restorations, but there's a limit to my skill/patience/budget, so an item like this will probably be not re-installed.

Appreciate the conversation and education all.