Emergency braking help

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use whatever comes with the new calipers and pads you get, its just an anti rattle spring.

I have never(needed to) bench bleed a master, just filed up(and kept it topped off) and bled the complete system.

this is probably the type you have currently
 
So it appears the MC was the culprit. I have a new AISIN unit sitting on the bench from Land Cruiser Parts. They forgot to include the cap, which I need, so they put it in the mail.

I went ahead and removed my old MC. When I pushed the piston in sometimes it would return, sometimes it wouldn't. It just sits halfway there. Messing with the new one it pushes in and returns every time. I'm hoping that fixes the problem.

Couple other questions:

1: I read about the 4Runner caliper upgrade. I don't have the funds this month but I suspect my calipers need replacing. From what I can see with them on the truck they are pretty ate up - rusty, etc. I pulled one loose and the rubber around the cups is tore up - so a replacement will be necessary. I went to the local parts store to buy a micrometer to test my rotors (they are in spec at 20mm) but on a whim asked the guy if they had the 93 calipers for a 4 runner. They do. I looked at them and they come with some kind of weirdly shaped metal shim that looks like it sits between the calipers.

My LC definitely does not have this. If I go the 4runner route - do I install this part or not? What does it do?

2: Do I need to bench bleed the new MC? I have read that I do, and read that I don't (or that others haven't). Is there a solid consensus?

Thanks for all the help.


Yes you need to bench bleed any master cylinder prior to installing. I would replace all the rubber brake hoses...all of them not just one or two. If your brake hardware (on the rear axle) is all rusty ...good to replace that too.
 
consider you have a hydraulic system.... you can bleed the system later and have fun doing it for an extended period of time when you don't bleed the mc prior to install, or you can "bench" bleed the mc prior to the install and then bleeding the rest of the system is far less painful. Consider if there are/is air in the mc....how far does that have to travel to get out of the system at the bleeders....

no matter if you want to bleed the m/c on the so called bench or bleed it on the truck itself....prior to bleeding the system, thats a good idea...even the shop manual says so.

nothing special about brakes on the 60.....bench bleeding the mc is normal practice to make things go smoother and be less painful, its eaiser to get the air out of the system...bleeding the mc first, before you start with each caliper / wheel cylinder.

(im only talking about when the mc is replaced or if you let teh mc run dry of brake fluid) or there is reason to believe there is air in the system at the m/c.)
 
won't disagree, but bench bleeding always seemed like a possibly messy prospect to me.

that and when ever I needed to replace a M/C....I had not gotten the bits to bench bleed.

consider you have a hydraulic system.... you can bleed the system later and have fun doing it for an extended period of time when you don't bleed the mc prior to install, or you can "bench" bleed the mc prior to the install and then bleeding the rest of the system is far less painful. Consider if there are/is air in the mc....how far does that have to travel to get out of the system at the bleeders....

no matter if you want to bleed the m/c on the so called bench or bleed it on the truck itself....prior to bleeding the system, thats a good idea...even the shop manual says so.

nothing special about brakes on the 60.....bench bleeding the mc is normal practice to make things go smoother and be less painful, its eaiser to get the air out of the system...bleeding the mc first, before you start with each caliper / wheel cylinder.

(im only talking about when the mc is replaced or if you let teh mc run dry of brake fluid) or there is reason to believe there is air in the system at the m/c.)
 
Looks like the long saga is finally over:

I ordered a new MC from Land Cruiser Parts. It's an AISIN unit and it stated it came with the cap (as mentioned before my cap was very loose). When it arrived the cap was not in the box. I contacted them and they sent it out to me. It has a different connector than the round one on mine but that's an easy wiring fix.

I ordered stainless steel lines from Cruiserparts.

I went ahead since I am on a tight budget with this thing and got some 1993 4Runner front brake calipers from Autozone as well as a set of rear brake shoes.

I kinda bench bled the MC, but since I was replacing brake lines the entire thing was full of air anyway, so I didn't go overboard with it. Just stuck some fluid in there, rigged up some aquarium air hose line into rubber stoppers and pushed on it a bit to prime it more than bench bleed.

I did not remove, nor turn, the rotors. I measured them and they were within spec. They did not have ridges on them. I understand that I -should- have and at next pad change I will probably order new ones, but I rarely drive this except to take the dogs to the woods, or if I need to go to a work site and my wife needs the truck, and I also had to work outside and get this done before the snow flew, which it did, twice, this week.

The calipers went on fine (after I reversed the shoes and cut the dust thing in the back per recommendations in other threads). The brake shoes were oriented in the right direction but they have squeal tabs on them I guess and I had to switch those on the same caliper to get them to fit. The bolt holes would almost line up, and they were clearly clearing the dust thing, but they wouldn't go on. Switched the shoes and they went right on.

I did have to get a 1/4" spacer so my wheels would fit.

I had already rebuilt the rear wheel cylinders earlier trying to chase down the problem and the rubber was good on those so I didn't do anything in the rear other than put on the new brake shoes.

In the category of "pay attention" The brake shoes come wrapped together. The first ones I opened didn't have the stud on them to hang the parts off of that actually operate the brakes, so I banged out one from my old brakes and put it on the new ones. Of course when I opened the other set I saw that they both had the studs in place. Lesson learned - check everything first before making a dumb assumption, but since the shoes are all identical except for this it didn't matter any.

I gravity fed the rear brakes (again, since the lines were replaced and the whole thing was full of air) until clear fluid ran out of both of them. Then I moved to the front and gravity bled those. Then I called my wife to help with the brake pedal as I bled the whole system quickly. Since I had "primed" the MC (but didn't make sure every single bubble was out), and gravity fed the entire thing, the actual "press, hold, release" bleeding at all four corners took only 15 minutes or less, and half of that was trying to get my creeper to move on my tore up driveway.

Got in, went around the block, mushy brakes, remembered to jerk the brake lever a few times, did that, felt them tighten up and now they work great.

Since I went with the 87 MC instead of the larger for the 93 4runner brakes there is slightly more brake travel but they stop great, hold on hills with the E-brake, etc.

Now let's hope I don't get another lock up in a week but I think this entire thing was the fix:

The old front calipers were pretty ruined. The rubber was tore and missing, etc. The pistons looked decent but I didn't blow them all out either, just the fronts that came out easy.

The MC, however, wouldn't return. Once it was removed and I pushed the piston it would sometimes come back, sometimes not. That had to be why my brakes were locking up.
 
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