Ehsan Pakistan Top

[FJROSS]

I think the tee sections are needed to attach the velcro pc. of fabric on either side of the rear window ( left and right verticle) when you have the rear window rolled up. I haven't opened mine yet, but thats what I've came across in the installation threads from Pakistan.

 

[antFJ]

yea - bsmith everyone got tbars for that reason.. there are velcro hold downs that didn't exist on an OEM top. The amby ones have hinge mounts on them whereas yours don't need to have them (although a whole bunch of them did have them when i went alex's to get my top)

i'm a little confused at why everyone is having trouble with the bows and stuff not lining up........

and by confused i mean worried! but i will find out in a week or so hopefully.

 

[Liam]

yea - bsmith everyone got tbars for that reason.. there are velcro hold downs that didn't exist on an OEM top. The amby ones have hinge mounts on them whereas yours don't need to have them (although a whole bunch of them did have them when i went alex's to get my top)

i'm a little confused at why everyone is having trouble with the bows and stuff not lining up........

everything pretty much lined up on mine with just a little tweaking. The only thing that i had to really tweak were the two brackets that held rear bars to the side of the tub.

The windshield piece is fairly straight forward and i dont think you should have to cut anything for your windshield wipers in order for it to fit. You will have to drill your own holes though. I put 5 hex metal screws to hold it down. I took pics of the install, but i need to just get my wife to download them....

once she does i will post

 

[MoCoNative]

Hi Ehsan or anyone who can help...

1. I did not receive any footman loops.
2. The front piece has no holes drilled nor are there cut outs for my wipers. See below
3. The rear T pieces for my set do not line up and I can not attach them. See Pics below
4. The screw holes in the rear cross piece (the lower one) are drilled completely wrong and do not line up
5. The upper support for the rear bows have the holes too far apart (I already have the nuts inside my body piece

So am I assembling htis wrong?

1. I didn't recieve any footman loops either, not a big deal to me, all the bow packaging looked very good on mine, plenty of nuts and bolts and stuff, but no loops. Not a big deal to me, as my factory ones are still installed.

2. The windshield peice installs on top of the frame, not in the front like you have it. My 73 had factory threaded holes in the top of the frame. I just drilled my soft top peice and there it was. I suspect that 75 and up no longer had the holes, not sure. Up until 75, 40's came off the line with all the holes for either a soft top or a hard top. Only holes not functional are the holes in the dash for the door straps. As Liam put it, screws will work across the top as well.

3. Mine don't hit the tub holes either, but I measured and my rear bow is just over 1200 mm to the top of the bow. I'm going to tweak it a bit, shorten the legs for factory spec of 1200mm and then I think the rear flap opening will then reach better to the tub and the holes it should hit.

4. The smaller rear crossmember is wrong on mine also. If you look closely at all the bows where the fit together there should be stamped letters. Either X or XX. Match the letters and the holes will line up better. You either have yours backwards, or you have mine, . The rear one over the door is stamped with E and EE, but the peice that slips on is stamped with G and GG. Thus the little holes do not line up, because they were not drilled together. So mine may be with someone else.

5. Answered above, I think???

Overall, I thought it all goes together pretty good, it just takes a little adjusting. but once you fit it up, it will be easy to take on a off. Like most things on a 40, it just pretty much bolts together, unlike newer vehicles where nothing fits again once you take it off.

 

[Liam]

1. I didn't recieve any footman loops either, not a big deal to me, all the bow packaging looked very good on mine, plenty of nuts and bolts and stuff, but no loops. Not a big deal to me, as my factory ones are still installed.

2. The windshield peice installs on top of the frame, not in the front like you have it. My 73 had factory threaded holes in the top of the frame. I just drilled my soft top peice and there it was. I suspect that 75 and up no longer had the holes, not sure. Up until 75, 40's came off the line with all the holes for either a soft top or a hard top. Only holes not functional are the holes in the dash for the door straps. As Liam put it, screws will work across the top as well.

3. Mine don't hit the tub holes either, but I measured and my rear bow is just over 1200 mm to the top of the bow. I'm going to tweak it a bit, shorten the legs for factory spec of 1200mm and then I think the rear flap opening will then reach better to the tub and the holes it should hit.

4. The smaller rear crossmember is wrong on mine also. If you look closely at all the bows where the fit together there should be stamped letters. Either X or XX. Match the letters and the holes will line up better. You either have yours backwards, or you have mine, . The rear one over the door is stamped with E and EE, but the peice that slips on is stamped with G and GG. Thus the little holes do not line up, because they were not drilled together. So mine may be with someone else.

5. Answered above, I think???

Overall, I thought it all goes together pretty good, it just takes a little adjusting. but once you fit it up, it will be easy to take on a off. Like most things on a 40, it just pretty much bolts together, unlike newer vehicles where nothing fits again once you take it off.

What did with mine was sand and prime everything and then loosely put it together then fit it...

All the holes for a factory soft top were there except for the holes on the windshield, which were easy to drill

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

3. Mine don't hit the tub holes either, but I measured and my rear bow is just over 1200 mm to the top of the bow. I'm going to tweak it a bit, shorten the legs for factory spec of 1200mm and then I think the rear flap opening will then reach better to the tub and the holes it should hit.

This is the most importmant thing here...once that measurement is right, it makes the whole install much easier.

 

[Liam]

so i am about to install the loops and the twisty things.

Anyone that has done the loops did you use inset screws and nuts or inset metal screws only. Also, should i install the loops first and pull tight before installing the twisty things??

 

[calixto]

TLC 4x. Ditto what everyone else said. Here is a good link to Biskits install with pictures. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/158973-biscuits-pakitop-install.html There are a couple others that are useful with search. I got no footman loops either but they were already installed on my truck.....almost better that you have to install versus moving strap/loop to match. Luckily mine lined up perfectly. Pretty sure my truck originally came as a soft top since it also already has twist lock holes drilled in the tub lip.

Below are a couple reccommendations for solutions that helped me....not saying you should do this exactly but they worked for my particular install. BTW, I installed everything straight from Ehsan without any sanding or painting. I am going to run the set up on my truck for a couple weeks to let the settle into place with driving before I paint. I also didn't install any of the little flat head screws yet but will do so with new stainless steel phillips head when the pieces are back from paint for final install. I am sure I will have to sand/router some of the connecting pieces once they are painted.

You definitely have your windshield bracket on wrong. The little holding notch or c shaped groove should be hanging over the face of the windshield down with the C shape opening facing towards the windshield. The top material "tube" slips into it and then the top is pulled back over covering the bracket. Dusty 66 posted really good pics below. It helped me to get the top on by putting it on the hood of the truck, sliding it in the bracket then folding the rest of the top back over the bracket. I had to remove my drivers side windshield wiper to get the top seam to slide past but that took two seconds and my wiper works fine with the top on. Also FYI, my windshield bracket opening was a little too wide and the top kept slipping out of the holding area. I was able to narrow the opening by hitting the back side of the bracket with a rubber mallet. Fits perfect now. My windshield top was already pre-drilled with recievers for the windhsield bracket. So if you want your bracket to appear factory stock there were 7 holes total and the bolts are the same as the hard top M6 x 1.0. I would suggest replacing Ehsans hardware with stainless steel for anything that screws into something else. I've heard a couple people have already had to drill those out those little flat head screws holding the bars from rotating.
If you already have holes on your windshield frame like I did. Make a paper template the exact same size as your windshield bracket where it will screw into the windshield top...you can then tape the template to the top of the windshield and adjust so it is perfetly symmetrical....then just poke holes through the template where the existing windshield holes are and viola you have a perfect template for drilling the bracket.

There were various areas with bracket gaping being too small or large on several spots on the bows around the doors or windshield etc. that you might need to adjust but it shouldn't be that big of a deal....just don't paint your stuff before you test fit. Mine actually worked a lot better after I installed the soft top a second time. It seems like the spots where the gaps were too thin adjusted a little with the top in. I think mine got bent a little in shipping.

The back upright brackets were a little tough for me as well. They metal was a little soft so I was able screw the brackets into place/perfect fit. I installed the drivers side first...loose fit both screws into place throught the bracket into the tub, slide the top upright tube in then tighten down the tub screws and the bracket should tweak a little to fit your particular truck. I would maybe get new stainless steel screws before doing this. I installed driverside back upright as described above slid the connecting cross over tube into place. Then installed the pass side upright the same way...then pulled them apart just slightly and the connecting tube slipped perfectly in between.

The little bars in the back???? Are they called spreaders??? Anyway, my "spreader" holes did not line up perfectly either but it doesn't really seem like the flat head screws are needed to keep them from spinning anyway. My fit was so tight that I doubt they will move anyway once they are painted. I think you were correct above mentioning that we got each others bars because my letters for the "spreader" cross bar didn't match either....but it really wasn't a big deal. Only one screw hole on this did not work for me.
The upright portion of my smaller "spreader" bars(the bars the velcro secures to) did come pretty much all the way to my tub when they were in place but there wasn't an anchor hole there to secure them. I fabbed up a little a little bracket to anchor them....I just didn't want to drill an additional hole in my tub. My brackets were simply about a 2" piece of flat steel with two holes where opposite facing bolts can go through. I put a flat sided bolt through the bottom of the fabbed bracket facing upwards to attach the "spreader" hole then put the bracket into place on the tub lip and screwed an M6x1.0 bolt into the stock hard top reciever hole. I will try to take a picture of this today (see below).

The only other spot that I had some trouble was the over door portion where it meets the windshield. I had to bend the little lip back so it was flush with the other screws secure and in place....this took 2 seconds to fix. I simply bent the slightly back with a large set of pliers.

Good luck! I have no clue about body work but with some patience and a little time able to get everything to fit perfectly....it took me a couple runs at it...and a bunch of beers but it's all good now. Let me know if you need any pics of anything specific.

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

New problem to add to the mix and an FYI for anybody with an aluma-tub. The poles that are on the bottom of the door sill don't line up right the way the holes are on the tub Never really noticed it with the hard top cuz no tubes

Hopefully I can grind the tube down to make it fit Or move and re-weld the tube, won't be as strong bit it will at least line up

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

New problem to add to the mix and an FYI for anybody with an aluma-tub. The poles that are on the bottom of the door sill don't line up right the way the holes are on the tub Never really noticed it with the hard top cuz no tubes

Hopefully I can grind the tube down to make it fit Or move and re-weld the tube, won't be as strong bit it will at least line up

voyager01 has an aluminum tub with OEM bows and no problems that I am aware of...maybe he will comment...

 

[calixto]

Here are the brackets I made up. The extra hole in the bracket is because I used an old seat bealt extender from CCOT I had laying around the garage from my seat belt install. Grade 8!

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

voyager01 has an aluminum tub with OEM bows and no problems that I am aware of...maybe he will comment...

Part of it worked out, I cut and ground the tube down to a c channel, and it fit like a glove, where I have a problem now is for the rear bows. The tub has a little shelf across the back where the rear tube would bolt on to the tub. Just the way the Aqualu tubs are



I'll prolly drill a 1 1/2" hole in the positon where that bow would normally sit and drop it down in the hole and still use the bottom bracket to stabilize the bow. Might work by god

 

[Dusty 66]

Could someone with a successful installation post up some pics of just the bows installed? Also the front piece over the windshield?

I also had some other fitment issues that were taken care of with a 3lbs sledge hammer

The channel needs to go with channel face down and need to drill the five 6 mm bolt holes you will need five 6 mm X 11mm bolts

 

[Dusty 66]

Here are the brackets I made up. The extra hole in the bracket is because I used an old seat bealt extender from CCOT I had laying around the garage from my seat belt install. Grade 8!

Looks like that will work

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=266399&stc=1&d=1223916165https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=266399&stc=1&d=1223916165

 

[calixto]

Hey Dusty 66, where did you get those wiper motors? Custom?

 

[Dusty 66]

Hey Dusty 66, where did you get those wiper motors? Custom?

1966 Toyota,Care of Marks Off Road New OEM baby.....

 

[voyager:01]

voyager01 has an aluminum tub with OEM bows and no problems that I am aware of...maybe he will comment...

yes in the case of aluminum tub the poles that go into the door channel must be modified to fit in. I kinda hacked mine so i don't wanna show pics.. but i saw a creative solution with pics here on mud a while ago in another Ehsan thread.. try a search.

Part of it worked out, I cut and ground the tube down to a c channel, and it fit like a glove, where I have a problem now is for the rear bows. The tub has a little shelf across the back where the rear tube would bolt on to the tub. Just the way the Aqualu tubs are

View attachment 266413

I'll prolly drill a 1 1/2" hole in the positon where that bow would normally sit and drop it down in the hole and still use the bottom bracket to stabilize the bow. Might work by god

That's exactly what i did and it worked out perfectly.. it would be ideal to find some kind of grommet for the hole though to eliminate any rattle or metal ware.. let me know if u find one because i still haven't.

 

[bsmith123]

loops and fit

No footman loops with mine either--did any one get any on this order?

Also having some fit issues to work out but I expected that it would need a little tweaking

I'll get some pics to post when I get to it in earnest in the middle of my trans swap at the moment but cant resist messing with the top some too!

 

[PhrogsPhorever]

yes in the case of aluminum tub the poles that go into the door channel must be modified to fit in. I kinda hacked mine so i don't wanna show pics.. but i saw a creative solution with pics here on mud a while ago in another Ehsan thread.. try a search.

That's exactly what i did and it worked out perfectly.. it would be ideal to find some kind of grommet for the hole though to eliminate any rattle or metal ware.. let me know if u find one because i still haven't.

I hacked mine too, not too proud of it, but it's functional and ou can't tell when it's nstalled. And I did the same thing in the back, I just drilled a big ole fat hole with a 1 1/2" hole saw, no bow problems any more I might actually mount the bottom bracket from the bottom to keep the bow from moving around. For the rough edge, I have a length of the edge guard for the front door jan that CCOT sells for just such a project. Should lookie real nice as soon as I get it all finished up.

I'll post up when I get it all painted to hide at least some of the carnage

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Any news yet on the stuff that should of been sent last week DHL from over there ?