EGR, Smog pump removal 91 Pros and Cons

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Desmog question 3FE

Can anyone tell me which is correct: On the De=smog guide it says to cap theses lines, then I found this, and he says to run a jumper hose. I am doing this on a 9/88 FJ62 with 3FE motor.

The 3-FE in my 62 is de-smoged, the air pipes come out without removing the intake, requires a bit of finger contortion, also the air lines were badly corroded and did not survive the extraction in one piece.

I deleted the smog pump and the EGR, I did not notice a change in power or mileage but I did it shortly after acquiring it so not much history, it is much easier to work on the drivers side of engine and I did not have to fix a lot of missing broken & broken crap on my 3FE by simply deleting it.

I would not say that it has the power of my 1FZ even desmoged.

Couple corrections for the de-smog guide, he has you cap all of those vacuum lines at the cluster running to the fender, the two lines for the fuel pressure regulator should not be plugged, this kills the intake manifold pressure sense line to the FPR, that would make it run rich, you should instead make a short jumper vacuum hose from one hard line to the other, that may be part of the power you guys are reporting but will also hurt mileage, the richening effect would be greatest at idle and least at WOT. Opposite of how we would want it. I may have a few ponies hiding in the cats, the cats are aftermarket and I do not know how well they flow but it would have cost money to have pipe put in their place, they are welded in so no easy way to gut them and reinstall.

Also the NPT brass plug for the EGR did not work well for me at all. The threads are not even close and after a few drives it loosened up, I retightened it a few times but it would loosen every time, so I filed down some washers to fit to two steps in the original exhaust nipple then ran a bolt through the washers to keep them in place and doped the whole thing up with exhaust sealant, has worked great. If you have access to a TIG welder that would be even better, I think the nipple is stainless.

My 62 is a near beater, it is a rust belt truck a local cruiser shop used it as a parts vehicle for a few years, ( I got it real cheap ) in this case it made sense to go this route, I would keep it stock on any 3FE’d vehicle that you consider valuable. The resale angle is accurate if that is important to you.
 
I just completed my de-smog of my 91 fj80. On the exhaust manifold I kept the Union and removed one of the nuts from the EGR pipe. I used a half inch knock out from and electrical box and tightened it down. I considered using a quarter, but never made it happen. As you can see I've removed the smog pump and made my own egr block off plate. Everything seems to be working properly, but I haven't done any serious driving yet.

For a little while I used a quarter...until i removed it for something less redneck :D
 
Can anyone tell me which is correct: On the De=smog guide it says to cap theses lines, then I found this, and he says to run a jumper hose. I am doing this on a 9/88 FJ62 with 3FE motor.


"correct" might not be the right word, "correct" would be to leave it stock, this is a modification.

Before de-smoging my 3fe I traced all the lines that the guide calls for to be removed, and all the others except for the FPR sense line I could live without, The FPR sense though is important to fuel metering, so that is why I looped it.


I am working with a FJ-62, you a FJ-80, I do not know if there are any differences in this area, the best thing to do would trace all those lines in the FSM and directly on the truck so you are certain of what you are doing. then it will not be what "someone" said is correct but what you know you are doing properly.
 
Mine though is also a 3FE.


Understood, but the 3FE in the 80 is not identical to the 3FE in the FJ-62, there are some slight differences mainly in periphery parts, I am not sure weather or not the vac line routing is one of these differences.
 
Soooo in short cause the desmog guide link doesn't seem to work in the post . You remove the air pump and lines to the intake and cap everything and you are good to go ? How long has this all taken everyone ? Mainly curious
 
Problem with these old smog pumps is that their at or almost at the end of their life. When they lock up and they will, they take out your water pump too. Any squeels coming from them is an indication of bad things to come, usually at the worst possible time. If your going to keep the smog pumps check them often. It was bad when mine locked up on my fj60. Mike
 
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