:/ EGR Coupler Nut Worked Loose, Again. Any tips?

[NorCalBorn]

Any tips here, it works itself loose about every 10-12 months or about 7000-10000 mles (last year when it did this was right after a big trip, same deal this year). Original parts, used a modified original riser pipe to connect from the Thorley header to the EGR itself.

Threads on both the EGR Valve and nut look fine, just a shy bit rusty so this time around I lightly snugged the nut, sprayed the threads with silicone spray and tightened them more than last time.

Maybe b/c the header system uses a solid crossover pipe instead of a flex pipe deal it's causing it to work loose?

 

[ferg]

Take a pair of channel locks and give a bit of a squeeze. It will act like a clinch nut when done right.

 

[NorCalBorn]

Clamping on the flats or the corners? I'll see if my old-school #409 will even fit in there w/o catching the + battery terminal.

Edit: Couldn't get enough torque with the chan-nel-lock so went on it with a vise grip on 4 of the 6 faces, let's see if I bump this thread a year or so from now.

 

[NorCalBorn]

FML, now what?

 

[NorCalBorn]

Hopefully fixed it, looks like the female part of the temp sensor harness cracked. Luckily I have spare bits from electrical jobs and threw it back together, seems to run fine now...

..we'll see how it runs the rest of the week. My bad for daily driving so much lately?

 

[ferg]

On the flat, only on one axis. Flats opposite of each other, just those two and only once. Leave the other four flats alone.

 

[NorCalBorn]

On the flat, only on one axis. Flats opposite of each other, just those two and only once. Leave the other four flats alone.

Thanks! That's pretty much what I figured. I got it all tightened down and got the connector fixed, did two days of driving and no issues came back. I didn't get to drive it like I wanted this weekend though b/c I caught the stomach bug going around. I'm gonna have the 4th-5th off and will be doing a decent trip in it and will report back after we return to town.

I know the first thing I'll do is double check that coupler nut, preferably while it's cold and had the chance to heat cycle a few times. We'll ultimately see next Mar-Jun if this comes back though.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

FYI Only CA trucks had the EGR temp sensor, the Federals just had a jumper wire between those terminals, if it gives you any more trouble...

 

[NorCalBorn]

Yeah, I know, problem is on CA rigs it'll trip a code and the CEL comes on. I do have a way around that but didn't need to go there. I did PM you the writeup to see if we want it in the FAQ.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Nope, I've bypassed a CA rig with a jumper wire.... Code does not come up... The sensor was bad, and kept popping a code... It's been fine for about 4 years now...

 

[NorCalBorn]

Was the one you jumpered a single oxygen sensor or dual one b/c when we tried that with mine it didn't work. (I have dual sensors, 1 fore and 1 aft of the catalytic converter.)

*Forgot to mention, PAIR Valve, not EGR, I edited the title, please make sure the edit stuck?

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

EGR Temp sensor..... 2 wires... No, you can not bypass the O2 sensors.... You can bypass the EGR temp sensor....

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

EGR:

PAIR:

You have loose threads on the EGR...

 

[NorCalBorn]

EGR:



PAIR:



You have loose threads on the EGR...

LOL< that's funny somehow. Someone kept insisting I wrote it wrong and I found a FSM showing similar so I said WTH and changed it. It's back to the original post.

I wasn't meaning bypass the O2's as much as I meant considering this: 3VZE - EGR / PAIR valve removal and engine simplification. - YotaTech Forums

There, I posted it.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I see.... All I was talking about was bypassing the temp sensor on the EGR. The Federal models simply don't have the sensor, and the wires are jumped to each other.

No comment on the EGR/PAIR delete......