check my vf reading and it said .03 volts so i'm guessing that i'm getting a bunch of fuel from somewhere and the ecm is trying to lean it out. i'll be checking out the coolant temp sensor and the cold start injector. also i did a drive test (jumped te2 to e1) and got code 14 so my problem with the stuttering/missing could be my igniter.
forgot to put one of the bolts back in the front of the bumper when i was messing with my winch ground. i noticed it in one of the pics i just posted so i went outside (0.3*F) and put it back in. another beautiful day in AK
just noticed the vacuum lines at my bvsv are hooked up backwards. this doesn't matter does it? it just opens and closes so either way when it opens it'll get vacuum the right way right?
That is a sweet truck. Why are you replacing bolts on your bumper, did you shear some off using the winch?
I am in the process of putting on a 4" IFS lift right now and had a couple questions on your set up if you don't mind.
What length / brand / model of shocks are you using on your truck now. I need some longer front shocks but not sure on the length I will need yet.
How do you like the front bumper? I have all my front bumper off and like the TG bumpers for the price. Is it sturdy and holding up well? Do you think it mounts to the frame strong enough?
Could you tell me some measurements on the front bumper?
What is the depth of the plate that the winch sits on?
What is the height from bottom (where it bolts to x-member) to the 90 deg bend that the winch sits on?
what is the distance from bottom of the plastic grille to the winch mounting surface?
Sorry for all the questions but I am just trying to figure out if my Warn 8247 winch will fit or if I am going to need to build my own custom bumper.
That is a nice truck, wish I had a 3.4L swap in mine.
didn't shear any bolts off but when i was removing the old bumper and push bar my brother made i ripped some of the nuts that are welded to the inside of the frame off. the TG bumper mounts up nice but definitely needs to be tack welded on the side mounts. the side mount holes are about 3/4" so with the stock bolts it'll wiggle a bit so i welded it on the bottom and drilled the holes out to fit some 3/4" bolts. i had a hard time with a couple of the nuts fitting into the backside of the frame but now it's really on there.
what lift kit did you get? the shocks i have in front right now are rancho 9000xl's for a 3" lift and they were a bit short so i just put both the bushings on the bottom. get the bilstein 5100's, that's what i'm running in the rear. i just ordered the rancho's because i was having a hard time getting someone to ship the 5100's usps. everyone wanted to ship ups and that's really expensive out here in the bush. got em off rock auto. if i were to do that over again i'd have em shipped to my brother out there in anchorage and just have him ship em to me. amazon has the bilstein's for a 3-4" lift and for a good price.
i'll take some measurements on the bumper tomorrow for you. i like the bumper alot and it's good quality especially for the price. it should fit a 8274.
i'm working on sourcing a 3.4 for my truck for when my 3.slow blows.
you can use the delete option once in the edit tab to delete the double post.
Thanks for the info on the shocks.
I bought a rough country or tough country 4" IFS drop bracket lift last year for $50 used. All the main brackets are there to drop the front + the steering stabalizer.....no shocks. I will have to fab the lower bump stop brackets with 2x4" steel box or similar. I am also missing the break line extender brackets and rear blocks.
No big deal, I am going to order extended break lines instead which will be better anyway. For the rear I have some TG4" lift springs I also picked up last summer with bilstein shocks and a shock cross bar to mount them on as well as TG shackles. I just need to pick up some spring to frame tabs for the longer springs. I also had to source all the hardware for it too but that was only $20.
So in the end it will cost me about the same, maybe a bit less, as a store bought kit, but I will have extended SS break lines and heavy duty lift springs in the rear instead of blocks. Not counting the cost of tires and gears etc, just the lift. Gears already swapped to 4.88's.
I am also swapping in power steering, tilt steering wheel, and intermittent wipers while I am at it.
I would really like a SAS on this truck but can't afford it right now. I have some of the parts and will keep on gathering the parts so I can do the swap in a year or two.
I will post a build thread in you are interested as soon as I get one started. Need to make a bit more progress first.
Looking forward to the measurements on the bumper. I think it would be a good looking match to the Marlin Crawler rear bumper I have.
i didn't see a delete option anywhere... well here's some pics. winch plate to bottom of plastic grill is about 6 1/2". winch plate depth is about 7". it should fit but you might have to cut your grill.
when my brother bought the lift he ordered the SS extended lines right off the bat too. and rear springs, never had blocks. got the pro comp skid plate too. IIRC it's a sky jacker lift and it's got a double truss and welded together, i've seen some that bolt together and they get worn and mess with the alignment once they start to shift around. i'll post some pics
Thanks for the measurements! I will have to call TG and ask what kind of winches can bolt up to the bolt hole patterns and see what they recommend too. What model is yours? I will have to dig out my winch and see exactly I am looking at once I get the lift on. It is in the back of the shed right now.
I pulled instructions off line for 2 different brands of lifts. I forget which mine is but it is welded on the rear truss bottom like yours. The front truss that the axle is bolted to is bolted in like all of them.
Had to go get a couple more bolts today and a puller but I should get back to work on it tonight.
just noticed the vacuum lines at my bvsv are hooked up backwards. this doesn't matter does it? it just opens and closes so either way when it opens it'll get vacuum the right way right?
I would put it back to stock and see if it changes anything. I am not sure of the function but if it does not hamper anything I would hook it back up like stock.
You have a good kit. Mine used the stock cross member in the front and bolts up. Maybe I will weld it for strength once done and alignment is done and correct.
found a 3.4 in town! 98 taco, auto. 1500 for the whole truck (rolled) it's been fed synthetic it's whole life and is owned by one of the shop owners around here (only good shop in my opinion) so it's been kept up by an ASE mechanic until his ex wife rolled it. i'll be doing the swap after this salmon seaon. i'm stoked.
replaced the water pump with new aisin... couple days after the fan clutch bracket cracked and my alternator belt fell off.
I saw one this winter for a great price but it was an auto and I have heard that it is easier to swap a manual engine set up than an auto, because of the electronics and ECU I think, but not positive. Are you going to keep the 5 speed or swap it over to automatic?
If I had more room at my place this winter I would have jumped on it. Maybe in a year or two I can get mine done.
From what I understand you will need a 1-2" body lift to fit the engine under the hood or modify the hood. I need to look into it more but I think I would just put a large hood scoop on it or something similar.
That will be nice, you will have more power and will not have to re-gear your axles.
I will keep watching to see how yours turns out. I look forward to seeing the 3.4L swap.
it's not the one you seen.. i saw that one too. it's here in naknek and i'm pretty sure it's green. i have a 2" BL i haven't put on and was going to sell but now i have a reason for it. pretty sure i'm going to stick with the stick. anyone have any tips for this swap? i'm going to attempt to make my own crossover pipe and do the wiring my self. i've read through some swap threads and there's so much info out there it's hard to go through it all and figure out what i'll need to know.
They have a whole section at yotatech forums dedicated to 3.4L swaps. I is a lot to look through but probably some good info there. It might not be as hard as it looks.
From what I understand the 3.4L engine is a bolt in swap to a 3.0 truck, using the same engine mounts and tranny. All you have to worry about is electrical stuff and a different radiator or radiator hoses because I think they are on the opposite side as your stock set up.
There use to be a company making a plug and play harness for the swap. I can't remember the name but there may be someone else doing this now because it is a very popular swap. If you find some info on it post it up here.
When you put your lift kit on did you rotate the rear axle so the pinion points up, or did you leave it stock?
