Dual Battery Mod Resonator Hose Substitute

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Aug 17, 2004
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Humboldt Nation
Working on my dual battery mod and I can't seem to find in the FAQ the NAPA hose number for the hose replacement if the resonator is eliminated.
Can anyone help?
Thanks,
:cool:
 
Russ:

Use Napa hose #9260. Worked great with a little trimming. Thanks to Boston Mangler for the original information source.

Steve
94'
160,000
 
aaaaaaah.:)
Thanks very much.
Onward...
:cool:
 
tech_dog said:
Hey thanks. Actually that is my plan but with my 'Oregon Outback' trip looming next month I want quick easy solutions right now. I'll revisit it later. I've ordered the NAPA hose for first thing in the morn. An extra resonator is $20 + shipping from Cruiser Parts but I might try to find one on the west coast.

What's the best way to relieve the air cleaner housing top of the resonator bracket?
:cool:
 
tech_dog said:
$20? Damn... I paid four times that.....
Are you sure your talking about the same part?
Dosent sound right.
Hope you didnt get burned from the be all to end all Toyota parts department.
:beer: :beer: :beer:
 
topend yobbo said:
Are you sure your talking about the same part?
Dosent sound right.
Hope you didnt get burned from the be all to end all Toyota parts department.
:beer: :beer: :beer:

I paid $80 for the thing on the far left of this picture (without the mod I did). Are we talking about the same thing?


resonator_relocation2.jpg



To make it even worse, I bought two of them so that I would have a spare I could use put it back to stock if I ever wanted.
 
tech_dog said:
I paid $80 for the thing on the far left of this picture (without the mod I did). Are we talking about the same thing?


resonator_relocation2.jpg



To make it even worse, I bought two of them so that I would have a spare I could use put it back to stock if I ever wanted.

Well, I hope that's what he thought I was talking about. I'll make sure before I order. I hope HE's right on the part and price.

Is the new bracket modified from the old bracket? What exactly is the new bracket attatched too?
:cool:
 
The bracket in the picture was made from scratch. It's just a bent piece of metal with a section cut out using a hole saw.

If you look at the back of the resonator, you'll se that you need to either do some agressive bending where it attaches, or you need to do something to put a spacer between the metal and the resonator. I used some metal mastic to add the two square "bumps", and embedded two nuts that fit the original bolts on the resonator. (If I knew how to weld, welding would have been better) I then ran a tap through the entire thing so that it's threaded all the way through. I also put some loose nuts behind it when I attached the resonator using slightly longer bolts of the same size.

If you look at the pix, the two back left holes are used to attach the bracket to the air filter can where the resonator used to be. I put one of the bolts through the battery box, with a nice big washer, which had the added benifit of making the battery box even more secure. After attaching the bracket to the air filter can , the resonator attached to the bracket at the front silver looking holes.
 
photogod said:
You could use the same hose and not use the resonator box. Makes no difference in the engin sound sept for a teeney bit of "diesel brakeing" sound on deacceleration.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=96015

Yeah... you could... but I always picture the Toyota engineers rolling their eyes as people like us strip off all the "unecessary parts" that they went to all the trouble to put in.

They engineered it into the solution, and I feel a bit tarnished if I pretend not to notice.

T.
 
tech_dog said:
... but I always picture the Toyota engineers rolling their eyes as people like us strip off all the "unecessary parts" that they went to all the trouble to put in. ...
T.

Here's some 'unesessary parts' I've removed (for now) to make room. I'll re-engineer the resonator later.
Next pic is the resonator bracket before
Then after
And all ready for battery tray
I'm going to wait to install the tray because the belts need changing and there is SO much more room with the tray out.

The last pic is the connector to the MAF sensor. What's the proper way to remove the connector? Having a bit of trouble removing it.
:cool:
 
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